I gotta say.. it was NOT pretty! While the filter is in an easily accessible location (very easy to reach through the wheel well and fairly easy to reach from the bottom, even without removing skid plates) , there is no room around it for any kinda wrench to move. My filter was very tight. This is the tool that I tried to use to remove it

I ended up putting several holes in the filter (which got very messy, of course) and the filter wouldn’t move at all.
Luckily, my neighbor had one of these around

Using this filter wrench through the wheel well with a long extension so that driver (ratchet wrench) could have some range of motion did the trick.

 

Congrats on the oil change.
If you just snugged down the oil filter with your hand you should be able to remove the filter at your next oil change with your hand. You will not even need the oil filter wrench.

I hand snug my filters and have never had a leak and never had any problems removing the filter. The only times I have had problems is when I change my moms after she has had a fast lube place change the oil.

If you did not do it this time just hand tighten it next time.
Brad

 

Yup, I just hand tightened it this time. I still plan to have proper tools, just in case it won't want to come out.
Also, filter that I'm using now (FRAM) has much better grip on the end (sandpaper-like) vs. OEM Toyota filter which was slippery as hell.

 

each car needs different tools as the space you have around it is different in every vehicle

my favorite tool is similar to a cup and it goes over the top of the filter. it hooks into a ratchet and turns it. it's like how your hands would grip it


works every time

 

But does the Fram have the anti-drainback valve like the OEM Toyota filter? No.

Not worth the trade-off if you ask me!

 

I bought a real sweet oil filter remover tool from NAPA. It has a loop of seat belt material that fits around the filter and then a socket wrench goes on the other end. I always seem to over tighten mine and this thing is so easy to use. It beats all the other ones easily. Next time use a plastice grocery bag to put around the filter before taking it off, most of the oil will fall in the bag. There you have it!!

 

I got PH3614, which is FRAM's cheapest filter that fits 4Runner. According to FRAM's catalog, it DOES have anti-drain valve.

 

Cool tip, thanks!

 

But is it made of silicone? It has to be made a certain way to work best with a Toyota. There was a long debate over this on the Pirate board, and it came down to Toyota brand being best.

 

Fram does make the X2 filter which is made of silicon and does have the anti drain valve. That filter is recommended for extended drain periods of 7,000 plus.

 

And how much is it? (Compared to the $4.50 I pay for an OEM Toyota filter)

 

It's about $6. Is the OEM okay to use for extendend drain intervals? 7,000 plus? If so I might have to check it out, a deal for $4.50. If not I'll stick with the X2.

 

OK, sounds like OEM is a better way to go. I only got FRAM because it's so easily accessible (all the stores have it). Nearest Toyota dealer is 30 minutes away from me.
I don’t mind ordering online, as long as it’s not for 1 item (2 bucks for filter and 6 bucks for shipping is just not practical).

 

I just got a k&n oil filter to do my next change with. Anybody know anything about these? It has a anti-drainback valve but i dont know if its silicone.

I also have Mobile one synthetic for the change.

 

Well, technically you can go 7500 under normal driving conditions (whatever that is). But I dont think anyone waits that long these days (I am not talking about you guys with the Amsoil set-up).

I run synthetic Mobil 1 with the OEM filter and set my intervals at 5000 miles.

You should be able to order a couple OEM filters on line for a pretty good deal (I think).

 

If your looking for the 'grip' find some grip tape at a hardware store. The stock it to make steps less slippery. Before you install the next filter, wrap a piece around the filter, it has an adhesive back. Now you have an oem filter with the grip of fram, IMO the only valuble part from this brand.

Nathan

 

Well I have just come in from changin` my oil for the first time as well, and it was a real adventure. Draining was easy nuff, but the filter took a liittle elbow grease to get off. I didn't need any additional tools, and I hand tightened it on, and it's as good as new.

I just felt like sharing,

Outkast`

 

Hope everyone knows this but just in case. Please don't pour out the used oil on the ground or in the dumpster. All you have to do is take it to a oil disposal place. Where I live you can find these at the local fire house or at the dump. Best of all it is free and is diposed of properly.
Thanks
Brad

 

Guys,

As a reference, check out my write up:

http://www.4runners.org/articles/oil (also found in the Tech section)

Not the only way, but the one I found most efficient.

And as Brad mentioned, don't be a butthole and throw it in the trash. At the end of my article is a link to a site called "Earth 911" which will allow you to find a local oil recycling center. It's very thorough and I found 4 within 3 miles of my place. I had no idea 3 of them accepted oil!

Bob

 

Ok a few questions on Synthetic or Regular:


1. Which is the perfered lube?
2. What happens if you switch back from synthetic, I heard it can blow seals??????
3. I installed a oil filter relocatioin kit, was there any benifit to that besides an extra qt. of oil???