Bypass the OE tranny cooler?
#381
What kind of ATF temp sensor are you guys getting and where from? Where on your dash are you installing it?
I just got my Tru Cool #4454 and bypass a couple days ago but didn't get the temp sensor, i'd like to get it all installed at the same time.
I just got my Tru Cool #4454 and bypass a couple days ago but didn't get the temp sensor, i'd like to get it all installed at the same time.
#382
Mine is in the glove box with 2 other gauges :
I put some other gauges I monitor more closely on the steering column (Perrin makes that gauge pod http://www.perrinperformance.com/pro...ory=9&model=22 ):
Last edited by mt_goat; 03-29-2011 at 05:34 PM.
#383
I like this Isspro electric gauge http://www.egauges.com/vdo_mult3.asp...=EVA_R&Units=E
Mine is in the glove box with 2 other gauges:
I put some other gauges I monitor more closely on the steering column:
Mine is in the glove box with 2 other gauges:
I put some other gauges I monitor more closely on the steering column:
mtgoat,
i've done so much reading that i forget who has done what mod. Did you use a "t" in the atf oil line for your temp sensor? What do you think about the sensors that install into the trans oil pan like part # 13009 on bulkpart?
#384
Yes, mine is in the cooler line before the cooler. I don't like the ATF pan because that is the coolest the ATF will be. I want to know the hottest ATF not the coolest, but that would be better than nothing for sure.
#385
thanks for your input it helps a lot, can't wait to get this installed soon!
#387
Bypass valve? myth or fact?
As stated above i just got my trucool 4454 via UPS a few days ago and i'm awaiting install when time is available.
My situation is that I'm soon to be moving to Eastern Washington where the temps will get consistantly below 25 degrees (and times below ZERO) during the winter. When i ordered my 4454 i also got the external bypass valve to run with it. I see other people think this is redundant since the 4454 already has a built in bypass and the external bypass may be a little restrictive.
What's the deal??? Use the external or not? Anyone running the 4454 in cold weather without the external bypass? I'd rather not waste nearly $30 on something i don't need.
Thanks in advance, i just want to do it right the first time.
My situation is that I'm soon to be moving to Eastern Washington where the temps will get consistantly below 25 degrees (and times below ZERO) during the winter. When i ordered my 4454 i also got the external bypass valve to run with it. I see other people think this is redundant since the 4454 already has a built in bypass and the external bypass may be a little restrictive.
What's the deal??? Use the external or not? Anyone running the 4454 in cold weather without the external bypass? I'd rather not waste nearly $30 on something i don't need.
Thanks in advance, i just want to do it right the first time.
Last edited by 4byrunner; 03-31-2011 at 09:31 AM.
#388
As stated above i just got my trucool 4454 via UPS a few days ago and i'm awaiting install when time is available.
My situation is that I'm soon to be moving to Eastern Washington where the temps will get consistantly below 25 degrees (and times below ZERO) during the winter. When i ordered my 4454 i also got the external bypass valve to run with it. I see other people think this is redundant since the 4454 already has a built in bypass and the external bypass may be a little restrictive.
What's the deal??? Use the external or not? Anyone running the 4454 in cold weather without the external bypass? I'd rather not waste nearly $30 on something i don't need.
Thanks in advance, i just want to do it right the first time.
My situation is that I'm soon to be moving to Eastern Washington where the temps will get consistantly below 25 degrees (and times below ZERO) during the winter. When i ordered my 4454 i also got the external bypass valve to run with it. I see other people think this is redundant since the 4454 already has a built in bypass and the external bypass may be a little restrictive.
What's the deal??? Use the external or not? Anyone running the 4454 in cold weather without the external bypass? I'd rather not waste nearly $30 on something i don't need.
Thanks in advance, i just want to do it right the first time.
#389
pls elaborate...does this mean that i really need to use the radiator cooler still rather than use the hayden all by itself (bypass the radiator)?
if yes, can't i just use the hayden and bypass the rad?
thanks.
#390
Where are you located? If you do a lot of driving in very cold weather you could be over cooling the ATF with a Hayden cooler because it doesn't have a internal cold weather bypass.
#391
I installed my 4544 Tru cool
Hey guys,
Thanks to all of you DIY folks I have braved up and installed Tru-Cool 4544 unit 20,000btu. I'm running 145F on a highway and highest temp topped at 169F. I have also installed Magnefine 3/8" Inline Magnetic Transmission Filter on a return line. Here are my pictures.
Thank you all.
Thanks to all of you DIY folks I have braved up and installed Tru-Cool 4544 unit 20,000btu. I'm running 145F on a highway and highest temp topped at 169F. I have also installed Magnefine 3/8" Inline Magnetic Transmission Filter on a return line. Here are my pictures.
Thank you all.
#392
Hey guys,
Thanks to all of you DIY folks I have braved up and installed Tru-Cool 4544 unit 20,000btu. I'm running 145F on a highway and highest temp topped at 169F. I have also installed Magnefine 3/8" Inline Magnetic Transmission Filter on a return line. Here are my pictures.
Thank you all.
Thanks to all of you DIY folks I have braved up and installed Tru-Cool 4544 unit 20,000btu. I'm running 145F on a highway and highest temp topped at 169F. I have also installed Magnefine 3/8" Inline Magnetic Transmission Filter on a return line. Here are my pictures.
Thank you all.
Maybe in the future you might think about moving that trans filter out from behind the grill? It's going to suck having to pull the grill every time you need to change the filter. Just my opinion.
#393
Am in Manila ao the weather would be on the high side temp...so does this mean that I will be OK?
Thanks man.
#395
Change of heart!
My educated opinion based ONLY on cold weather application....
I was going to do the "bypass" but i have read enough to find out that there is an IDEAL operating temperature for ATF to run at. Just like the bears and their pourage, there is too hot, too cold and just right.
When you overcool your ATF via bypassing the factory heat exchanger oil/water way by using an external oil/air cooler you start to mess with the oil flow characteristics. If the oil stays too cold it may not get to all the nooks and crannies it should and may not lubricate to it's highest potential. If it gets too hot then the oil burns and breaks down thus creating oxidation....etc. In ambient temperatures well below 32f the converter can not sustain ideal heating of the ATF because external oil cooler is cooling it too much.
Some people on here are reporting that they are running cold ATF temps between 80-100 degrees F and their tranny's are still shifting just fine and they're not to worried. Well on the other hand, for our auto trans, if we we're running hot (say around 250 degrees F) would you really notice? Probably not although damage is being done and you don't even know it till it's too late. It's no secret that engines have an IDEAL operating temperature so your only rolling the dice if you think your transmission doesn't!
My $.02, First, if your worried then get a new radiator since it's the old radiators that are several years old that are breaking down. Secondly, run an oil cooler in line after the radiator to protect yourself from overheating in case your radiator or water pump does fail. Thirdly, do a strip test with your ATF to detect if there is any coolant in your transmission. If you find some then you know your radiator is starting to fail and a MILKSHAKE is possibly on its way.
Good luck!
I was going to do the "bypass" but i have read enough to find out that there is an IDEAL operating temperature for ATF to run at. Just like the bears and their pourage, there is too hot, too cold and just right.
When you overcool your ATF via bypassing the factory heat exchanger oil/water way by using an external oil/air cooler you start to mess with the oil flow characteristics. If the oil stays too cold it may not get to all the nooks and crannies it should and may not lubricate to it's highest potential. If it gets too hot then the oil burns and breaks down thus creating oxidation....etc. In ambient temperatures well below 32f the converter can not sustain ideal heating of the ATF because external oil cooler is cooling it too much.
Some people on here are reporting that they are running cold ATF temps between 80-100 degrees F and their tranny's are still shifting just fine and they're not to worried. Well on the other hand, for our auto trans, if we we're running hot (say around 250 degrees F) would you really notice? Probably not although damage is being done and you don't even know it till it's too late. It's no secret that engines have an IDEAL operating temperature so your only rolling the dice if you think your transmission doesn't!
My $.02, First, if your worried then get a new radiator since it's the old radiators that are several years old that are breaking down. Secondly, run an oil cooler in line after the radiator to protect yourself from overheating in case your radiator or water pump does fail. Thirdly, do a strip test with your ATF to detect if there is any coolant in your transmission. If you find some then you know your radiator is starting to fail and a MILKSHAKE is possibly on its way.
Good luck!
Last edited by 4byrunner; 04-08-2011 at 02:58 PM.
#396
My tranny has a tendency to shift harshly until it has warmed up, which only takes a few minutes of driving even in freezing temperatures. I agree that ATF has an optimal operating temperature, but has anybody gotten sustained temps below 150 or so? I don't think there's any way somebody could put a cooler in their truck that would provide excessive cooling to the extent it would cause damage.
#397
My tranny has a tendency to shift harshly until it has warmed up, which only takes a few minutes of driving even in freezing temperatures. I agree that ATF has an optimal operating temperature, but has anybody gotten sustained temps below 150 or so? I don't think there's any way somebody could put a cooler in their truck that would provide excessive cooling to the extent it would cause damage.
I like to go snowboarding a lot and it can be an hour drive minimum and that's way too long to be overcooling my tranny and once i go down the mountain after boarding all the "coasting" down hill at low speeds will most likely overcool as well. Not worth it in cold weather in my opinion, only in consistent warm weather like San Diego.
#398
If you look at where the cooler lines go into the radiator cooler.The shorter one to the radiator(passenger side) is the output to the radiator cooler...The longer one that runs along side the radiator to the radiator cooler is the return(driver's side)(drops fluid back into trans pan).....This holds true for all Factory Toyota's set-up w/ radiator cooler..........If say you are woring on something else..all you have to do is unhook a line,put a catch pan underneith..have someone start the vehical and see which way the fluid flows and have them shut it down as soon as the fluid flows.
#400
My educated opinion based ONLY on cold weather application....
I was going to do the "bypass" but i have read enough to find out that there is an IDEAL operating temperature for ATF to run at. Just like the bears and their pourage, there is too hot, too cold and just right.
When you overcool your ATF via bypassing the factory heat exchanger oil/water way by using an external oil/air cooler you start to mess with the oil flow characteristics. If the oil stays too cold it may not get to all the nooks and crannies it should and may not lubricate to it's highest potential. If it gets too hot then the oil burns and breaks down thus creating oxidation....etc. In ambient temperatures well below 32f the converter can not sustain ideal heating of the ATF because external oil cooler is cooling it too much.
Some people on here are reporting that they are running cold ATF temps between 80-100 degrees F and their tranny's are still shifting just fine and they're not to worried. Well on the other hand, for our auto trans, if we we're running hot (say around 250 degrees F) would you really notice? Probably not although damage is being done and you don't even know it till it's too late. It's no secret that engines have an IDEAL operating temperature so your only rolling the dice if you think your transmission doesn't!
My $.02, First, if your worried then get a new radiator since it's the old radiators that are several years old that are breaking down. Secondly, run an oil cooler in line after the radiator to protect yourself from overheating in case your radiator or water pump does fail. Thirdly, do a strip test with your ATF to detect if there is any coolant in your transmission. If you find some then you know your radiator is starting to fail and a MILKSHAKE is possibly on its way.
Good luck!
I was going to do the "bypass" but i have read enough to find out that there is an IDEAL operating temperature for ATF to run at. Just like the bears and their pourage, there is too hot, too cold and just right.
When you overcool your ATF via bypassing the factory heat exchanger oil/water way by using an external oil/air cooler you start to mess with the oil flow characteristics. If the oil stays too cold it may not get to all the nooks and crannies it should and may not lubricate to it's highest potential. If it gets too hot then the oil burns and breaks down thus creating oxidation....etc. In ambient temperatures well below 32f the converter can not sustain ideal heating of the ATF because external oil cooler is cooling it too much.
Some people on here are reporting that they are running cold ATF temps between 80-100 degrees F and their tranny's are still shifting just fine and they're not to worried. Well on the other hand, for our auto trans, if we we're running hot (say around 250 degrees F) would you really notice? Probably not although damage is being done and you don't even know it till it's too late. It's no secret that engines have an IDEAL operating temperature so your only rolling the dice if you think your transmission doesn't!
My $.02, First, if your worried then get a new radiator since it's the old radiators that are several years old that are breaking down. Secondly, run an oil cooler in line after the radiator to protect yourself from overheating in case your radiator or water pump does fail. Thirdly, do a strip test with your ATF to detect if there is any coolant in your transmission. If you find some then you know your radiator is starting to fail and a MILKSHAKE is possibly on its way.
Good luck!
I have a cold weather bypass in parallel with mine as I had the same worries. Also, if you still find that you run too cold, you can cover/insulate portions of the external cooler. It doesn't have to be all or nothing.