I happen to have a collision parts list for the 2001 Taco. For the 5VZ auto the radiator (part#164100C042) goes for $536.35 retail, and it shows book rate of 1.2 hours if your paying someone else the labor. You could get it cheaper ($386.17) from an online dealer like Bob Bridge Toyota:
https://www.1sttoyotaparts.com/partscat.html

 

Wow. I'm getting up there mileagewise and I think I might need to do this soon.

What's everyone's opinion on the rubber cooler lines? Would they need replacement after certain points?

I have the Hayden 678 in my 4Runner right now, is it capable enough to handle all of the cooling?

 

Thank you!

Andreas

 

Probably, do you have it in front of a fan so it gets air if you're going slow like in bumper to bumper traffic.

My radiator cooler has been totally bypassed now and replaced with one of these coolers model #4454 :
http://www.importperformancetrans.com/coolers.shtml Note they have a built-in bypass for cold temps.

My tranny temps run around 160-190 F with the hottest I've seen it 205 F on a 100 degree day after a long drive. My coolant temps run hotter than that so there is no way the radiator cooler would be helping in my case anyway.

 

The radiators from the dealer are horribly expensive even at a discount. Usually a local auto body shop can help you out with finding a less expensive OEM replacement.

 

Maybe I overlooked it but it seems that all the core failures are on V6's and not 4cyl's... Right?

I'm wondering the if the radiators are similar between the two engines?

 

The 3rd generation 4Runner 4 cylinders and the 96-00 6 cylinders use the same radiator for auto or manual (p/n16400-75180). The 01-02 V6s use p/n 16400-75181.

 

Thanks for the pictures, Goat! Your installs look very clean. Looks like they came that way from the factory (or at least should have).
I like the twin coolers



I was looking through the album (snooping ) and saw what looked like a T that you might have fabbed for the cooler fan thermostat.



Where do you typically place it in the system? Some people at Tundra Solutions (sorry for their popup) were talking about placement on the return line just out side of the cooler showing temps that are very similar to ones shown when the sensor is mounted in the pan.

 

On my Tundra, I had the sensor mounted in the return line as well. Better to know the temp of the fluid going in because you already know the fluid coming out will be hot.

 

Yep, mine's mounted slightly in front of the radiator.

I ordered a Tru-Cool from ipt for my Tundra a while back and no matter how much I pushed it, it never got past 150.

 

The twin coolers were over kill, I pulled one out and it still ran very cool. I'm just running one now.

That "T" is for my trans temp gauge sensor, but you could do the samething for a fan controller sensor. I have it on the output line before the cooler so I see the hottest temp possible. I found the parts at Ace hardware, well except for the sensor that came with the Isspro gauge. http://www.egauges.com/vdo_mult3.asp...=EVA_R&Units=E

 

Thanks again for all of the information.

 

I've now had a chance to test in some colder weather, its been staying around 32 F. On the highway my ATF temps are a little on the cool side, like around 115 F, going slower (city driving) it warms up to about 145 F. Not sure what temp is considered too cold. but I may look at putting a piece of cardboard or something in front of the cooler to block the air flow some if it gets real cold. No noticeable problems with the tranny so far.

 

Ok, so what is the general consensus here? Is this a part that NEEDS replacing? I don't tow much, and if I do, I never use OD.

Do we know what the recommended transmission operating temperatures are for our transmission?

 

I blocked off half of the air flow to the cooler:


After driving for a while in the city (36 F today) it got up to 175 F (hot enough that the controller kicked the cooling fan on), don't want that. I guess I'll remove the air block unless it gets really cold.

 

Do you guys think it would be better to install a new aftermarket rad or bypass the stock cooler? What did you guys end up doing?

 

I did both.

 

Yeah the more I think about it that rad is a liability, it needs to go. Spectra premium makes quality rads that are reasionably priced.

 

There is a lot of talk about temps too low. I have no background to say what is or isn't a good temperature.

I guess my question is, do you drive the truck while the tranny is cold? It is zero out right now, even at that temp, the oil will still flow. Not the best, but zero is unusual.

I would think as long as the oil is flowing, you are golden which would be around freezing or so. Again, total speculation. ATF is a very lightweight oil and should flow very easily.

When I changed 10-40 Rotella synthetic in 20 degrees, that oil moved very...very slow.

As for the cooler, I ran it through the rad which is probably a mistake. I think it is worth changing to cooler only with monitor. You should run a thermostat on it if you were worried about it being too cold...couldn't you?

 

Very cold temps are why I think it may be useful to maintain circuit through the radiator cooler. I added an IPT cooler this fall, but didn't install a temp sensor. I can only guess that things are cooler.

We get morning temps in the negative 20s F range in the winter (maybe negative teens in the garage), so my feeling is that a little warmup from the radiator may be quite useful for tranny operations. As I recall, the hot supply goes into the cooler first and then the radiator, before returning. This should result in a slight warm up once the coolant temperature starts to rise.

Correction: The supply enters the radiator, then the trans cooler, before returning. So I probably don't get much preheating of cold tranny fluid, but maybe a little to take the edge off. No biggie as I've never really had a problem with cold weather shifting or pumping. I suspect the hydraulic pumping gets the fluid warmed up pretty quick, anyway.

MadCityRich
'02 Ltd
SS 7.2
Tundra brakes
265/75