cymeryss

I am fairly new to offroading and also fairly new to Yotatech. Most of the car's I had I dropped instead of raising them, but my interest of exploring Baja, MX and being an outdoors kind a guy, shifted my interest and bought me a 99 4runner. The current problem with my vehicle is that it sags in the rear once it's loaded with gear, and I definitely need to do something with it, and increase off-road capabilities.

I have since researched for a good 80% street (work)/20% off-road (weekend) setup, and so far decided that I would like to ride on 265/75/16's, based on readings on this board. I have also looked closely at the Tundra suspension setup with rear OME's, and/or a 1" body lift (to clear the 265/75's without Tundra setup).

What I am looking for is a good compromise in street/off-road performance, something that will fix my rear sag, and will improve my ground clearance. From what I understand, only tires will raise my axels, which are the lowest point in the vehicle (rear pumpkin), and Tundra setup will not improve that, but will only provide me with better articulation, and possibly decrease reliability (increased wear on CV's/axels), and vehicle stability with a higher C.G.. So, going with 265/75's with a 1" body lift (to clear the tires), some new rear shocks (for my sag) should be sufficient? I guess what I am asking is, how much of an improvement is a Tundra lift vs. a body lift, on 265/75's?

Any input would be appreciated. By the way, I am very close to getting the Tundra setup, but need to resolve this last issue.

ebelen1

You may start getting told to search but from what you've written, my opinion is to go with the PP 1" springs and Bilsteins. The PP springs will give you minimal height increase as your '99 springs are already about 1" taller than other 3rd gens. The Bils go great w/ the PP springs and will give you a stiffer but good street ride and great mild offroad ride.

BTW, these springs will also help w/ the sag in the rear as you add more weight. The are progressive springs.

Another cheaper choice is to go w/ an air system in the rear so that when you tow or have a lot of gear, you use an airbag to fix the sag. I prefer the PP/Bilstein combo.

fourwd1

That's like comparing apples and oranges. They're both lifts, but way different.
BL will make room for taller tires and do nothing for your rear end sag.
Susp lift will address your butt sag and make room for taller tires.
As previous poster stated, go w/a susp lift.

cymeryss

Thank you for the quick input. I think I did my research on this website, and couple of others as well. Based on the threads and the great positive feedback from the Tundra suspension setup, I was pulled away from Bilsteins since many post's in the suspension setup review's were not so positive.
This would definatelly fix my sag problem, but then again even a stock 3rd gen rear (new) spring would as well. How these two compare Biltein with PP or Tundra setup?

What would be a reason for going with a Tundra setup, while still rolling on 265/75's and no body lift?

THanks.

BajaRunner

For your rear-end sag, you will need to install either Old Man Emu 891 springs or Downey 3" springs.

If you want a quick fix though, you can just get some Daystar 1.5" spacers and put them in the rear and level your 4runner out.

As for the front, I would recommend getting some coil-overs (Sway a ways, Donahoe, fabtech, etc) or the "Tundra" lift everyone keeps talking about. I think it basically is just Tundra coils with a spacer that goes outside of the coil rather than pre-loading it inside the coil/strut assembly.

I am too a Baja freak and go down there as much as possible. You will definetly need some clearance and try to get D or E load range tires...or something with some stiff sidewalls. The only time I "brake down" in Baja is when my tires get stabbed by either a sharp rock or cactus.

Bringing a tank of compressed air and a tire repair kit is definetly on my list.

cymeryss

I love Baja, and if I could I would be there every weekend.

I am paritially conveyed to a suspension lift, more so the "Tundra lift" since all post indicate that the reliability, wear and tear on (CV's, axels, bearings) is minimal. I just don't want to start replacing components every 15K, and I read 2" is OK, although the Tundra setup is higher than that. A lift would provide me with more articulation, slightly improved ground clearance with 265/75's, and no rear sag.

All rest kept contant, would a BL, with new rear springs (for the sag), with 265/75's provide me with the same ground clearance and similar city driving performance, and would only loose on articulation for off-road use?

99_Runner

I would suggest going with just the Tundra setup in front, but don't do any spacers on top. That should get you about 1.5". Get the OME Shocks all the way around as they are softer and will give a better on road ride. Get some OME springs for the rear and you will be set. You don't need very much lift to clear 265/75's cause that's what I'm running and I'm all stock. Don't forget to post pics when you do it.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

I find a combination of suspension and body lift (if needed) works well. Do the suspension first to get the ride height and quality you are looking for and then add a mild body lift if you need a bit of extra tire clearance:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...it.shtml#FAQ10

cymeryss

I think if I don't install the spacer up front, because of the rear OME springs, the vehicle will be slanted forward. Up front with 1.5" and 2.5" in the rear. So, you are saying you can fit 265/75's stock without any problems? Maybe that is all I need with some new springs in the rear. This way I will still gain the same ground clearance as with the Tundra/OME lift, but will have to compromise on the articulation. So, how important is articulation over Baja type terain? I know that's a very general question, and how is the ride quality in comparing Tundra/OME to OEM setup?

BajaRunner

Id just do the full lift....Tundra w/ topout spacer. You actually wont get too much of a difference because you have a 99. The 99's are actually the tallest 4runners they made (suspension-wise). I bet you'll get 2" max from teh front and about 2.5 in the rear which is good because you'll be loading down the back anyways. The rear coils will settle as well and you will have a level 4runner.

You'll be able to fit 265/75's without problems. You'll probably just have better on-road handling as well.

You wont be dissapointed is all I can tell you.

As for as the terrain, a lot of the roads have been graded. Unless you go off the beaten path, the most devistating areas are those with "moon dust" and that slick mud stuff. Just dont drive at night and you'll be okay Articulation isint needed a huge amount from what I have seen. There are some gnarly ruts once in a while but not anything too bad.

A minor lift will be great as well because it is easy to get high centered on those roads.

Localmotion

I would do the tundra/ome lift and 1" body lift from 4crawler.

With this option, you can fit 285s under w/o rubbing with 16x8 and 4.5 backspacing wheels

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

For "Baja" or pre-running type driving, you need lots of up-travel in the suspension to soak up bumps at high speed. For slower speed rock crawling you don't need as much up-travel, but do need lots of down-travel and articulation to keep the tires on the ground over uneven terrain.

Scottiac

Not relevant to which lift, but you do not need to lift at all to run 265/75r16's. (You might get a little rub if your tires are MT's, but AT's are ok). I can get a bit of rub if I really work at it, but I've been running those on stock suspension for several years with no problem.

cymeryss

4crawler, that makes a lot of sense. I guess what I am mostly looking for is up-travel. Now upgrading to a "Tundra/OME" type of a lift, what kind of up-travel vs. down-travel am I getting? Also, what are the comparisons of OEM vs. "Turnda/OME" in terms of up-travel and just overall pre-runner/expedition terrain performance, assuming both ride on 265/75's, and will have the same ground (axle) clearance?

By the way, thanks for all of the great input so far.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Well, you can measure the sort of up- or compression travel you are getting now, just find a ramp or something to drive up on util you hit the bumpstops on each corner and measure the travel:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Ramp.shtml

Then just add the amount of lift you'll be getting from the new springs and that would be a good approximation to the new up-travel distance. This is of course assuming the new spring will allow full compression to the bump stops. If not, make allowances for that. If you do coilovers up front, you can adjust things, but if not, you'll get whatever it happens to be. With a given size tire, ground clearance is the same, at least under the axles. Lifts will change the axle-frame and frame-body distance, but tires are the only thing that changes ground-axle clearance.

Bagger

Ditto on our '99 4Runner with 265 BFG AT's. No lift, no problems with rubbing during mild trail runs.

Praufet

Just to add my two cents, I've heard body lifts are bad for high speed off roading. Not sure what kind of terrain you cover, but if you do fast runs in baja, a body lift may be a bad idea. This is just what I've heard, no first hand experience.