OK guys, my 96 is going to get some treats. In order to aid in the install of headers, increase my appr/dep angle, and improve the looks, I am going to install a Roger Brown body lift next weekend.

I do not plan on going with larger tires anytime in the near future. I am running 265/70/16's.

So, what do you think? I think 1" personally. But 1.5" might be ideal. If I go with 1.5", the 2" will be the same price.

I am leaning towards 1". Please offer your intelligent input if you have any.

Thanks guys.

 

i installed a 1" a couple weeks ago. basically, i raised the body, added the blocks, put in longer bolts, put in steering spacer, lowered the body back onto the frame and that was it.

with a 2" (from what i remember), i think you need to lengthen the fuel lines, drop the radiator, deal with gaps, etc...

so i dunno where the 1.5" will fit into the equation...

 

I would go with a 1"...thats what I'm gonna do...I just want something to where I can fit 33's without too much trimming/pounding...

Can't wait to see what that rig looks like at a higher altitude.

Fink

 

Oh and just to clarify, I am not concerned with the difficulty of install. I know I can handle it. I am more concerned with how it will look. I am almost wondering if 2" would create too huge of a gap with my tires.

Keep the advice coming!

 

your skinny, wimpy highway tires will look really lame with a 2" body lift IMO.

either way, i say you get some 265/75 MT or ATs.

 

Well they are Pirelli AT Scorpions, so they aren't that bad. But I know what you mean, 2" would be pretty noticeable. I dont want people saying, "hey that guy must be running his street set-up. Look at that gap!"

Tires are out of the question right now. These Pirelli's have served me well for the type of trails I go on here in AZ.

The 1" BL is sounding better and better.

 

Here is my truck with 2.5-3" of suspension lift on the stock sized Duller AT Revos. Wasn't TOOO bad, but... this was right when I installed so it hadn't even sebtled yet.

 

go 2 or 3" you can still make it ride OK on street since there are so many tire options available now Every time I lift a truck small I always end up going bigger you can still do it in 1 day in a normal garage
PS put wood blocks between body and frame while you work as your fingers will be in there quite a bit as you install

 

1" has the least amount of complications. If you can fit big enough rubber with whatever suspension lift and 1" body, then go 1" then. Lower center of gravity (with IFS) is where it's at.

 

To get rid of the gap look between the frame and the body...make a quick trip to home depot and pick up some of that black rubber stuff that you have in your front fender wells. I think its 99 cents a foot. Someone had pics of it either on 4x4wire or here...cant remember. But it looked very clean and stock. No more gap. He basically lined the fender well with the stuff. Cant remember how he attached it, but I do know the total cost being under $20. Its on my 4Runner Dry Erase board under the "mods" collumn I need to take that down...makes me cry. Soo much I never got around to do.

With that said...go with the 2inch You can get rid of the gap for $20 and bigger is better! Center of gravity is changed only slightly. Not much more than a 1 inch will do. The extreme bulk of your weight is still in its stock location.

EDIT: The material used was pond liner (for an outdoor water pond). Ive heard of truck bed liner and flooring liner too . Home Depot should have several options I would assume.

 

I have a 2" body lift and it adds a lot of room without looking "gawdy"! No fuel lines to lengthen, radiator can stay put, just take off the lower valence, and possibly adjust shifters.

I would vote 2" body lift as it would put you 1" closer to God!

 

My vote is for a 1 in body lift if you are keeping the stock tires.

 

Brian-

If I go 1” do I really need the bumper brackets for $60? The 1” kit with everything is $168 according to Roger. Anything above that, and I get into the $230 range.

If the brackets were omitted, cost would be significantly reduced (-$60). What do you think? Just do it right?

 

Roger sells the front brackets for $10

 

I do not have any intelligent input.

But I would say go for the 1" because it won't look like you put on a crazy BL. And it would keep your cog lower. And it would look better. And no need to worry about any extensions or messing with radiators.

I'd only say go for the 2" if you plan on putting really big tires on there, and I'm pretty sure that you don't plan on that. Also with your sliders already welded on, the 2" might make them useless.

just my 5 yen. -_-

Or better yet, wait till I get back and lemme help you

 

You can help me with the headers Rob.

I think 1" is a good idea. If I want to go up from there I will go OME or something (and then get bigger tires).

I am still confused about the body mount Bracket thing...

Here is what Roger sent me regarding pricing...

96 4Runner Body Lift Kit:
Kit: Cost/1" Cost/2" Cost/3"
D $ 73.00 $ 87.00 $101.00 (Ult. blocks+h/w only)
F $ 83.00 $ 97.00 $111.00 (Kit D + front bumper brkt)
SE $ 25.00 $ 32.50 40.00 (Steering Extension)
RAD $ 10.00* $ 10.00 $ 10.00 (Radiator Drop Bracket)
BB $ 60.00 $ 60.00 $ 60.00 (9th/10th Body Mount Brackets)
COLOR $ 10.00 $ 10.00 $ 10.00 (Custom color lift blocks)
HD/HW $ 15.00 $ 15.00 $ 15.00 (Upgrade hardware to Grade8)
----------------------------------------
Typical Kit $168.00 $199.50 $221.00 + shipping**
F+SE+BB F+SE+BB+RAD..... (Typical kit contents)

What is the body mount bracket? That is what I was talking about. Thanks.

 

The body mount bracket was omitted on some 3rd Gens. Go underneath and count up the body mounts. There should be 10 (2 by the radiator, 6 between the wheel wells and 2 behind the rear wheels - total of 10, 5 per side)

 

I split the difference and went with an 1½" lift and grade 8 hardware. Looks good with stock tires in my opinion. Little more noticeable than the 1", but still allows for some additional suspension growth without increasing to the body roll factor when cornering. No additional changes required with the 1½" besides loosening the battery cable zip ties to allow for some slack.

 

I believe the 96's are the ones with the missing body mounts. I'd say yes you do need them.

I think Roger has a link to Adam Fertig's write up on a 96, and he talks about the missing mounts too.

 

Yeah, I think you are right Tom. The 96 is the only year requiring them. Just my luck.