With any stroke of luck, this weekend might be the weekend I install my lift.

Next on my agenda of parts to order, however, is sliders.

I know that after that I'm going to bump up to a 285 tire, and I know that I've heard opinions both ways about whether or not they'll fit on a 2-2.5" lift which is what I'll be doing.

If they don't fit, I'll have to go for a body lift, and I don't want to weld sliders to my frame only to do a body lift to fit the tires without rubbing and have it look goofy when they're lower.

Any thoughts? I've been digging around on yotatech and google the past few days, and can't really find what I'm looking for.

As an aside, what's the triming of the pinch weld consensus where the sliders will be up by the body.

 

A weekend project is a good place for the lift install as you might need parts of two days to get it done, or one whole uninterrupted day, but that's me and I took my time for sure.

SLIDERS!!!

I ran 285s with just a 2" RB body lift with minimal rubbing and pinch weld trimming. I have waited on my sliders until I get my ride height just like I want it, as I don't want to have to remove my sliders and redo them. I certainly don't rub now.

You should be fine with the OMEs and the 285s as numerous people have that setup. You will need to do some trimming however of the pinch weld and fender well lining, but that is easy.

I would say leave the pinch weld alone under the rig and give yourself 3/8" to 1/2" between the pinch weld and the sliders. RB says that putting the main beam under the pinch weld gives it extra support when it gets flexed and I tend to agree with that idea.

Good luck with your "moddage"!

As always, let me know if I can help!

 

You are smart for waiting on the sliders till after the BL. I did it in the reverse order, and got lucky that a 1" BL does not look funny with my sliders. However, any higher and they would have had to be repositioned.

 

I currently have about 3/8" gap between my sliders and the pinch weld, I'll be doing a 1 1/2' Roger Brown BL soon, but I won't relocate my sliders. Right now it's kind of a pain to clean my lower rocker panels with my sliders tucked in close, so with the lift it'll give me the space to get in there. Besides after grinding on rocks, my rear flare corners still get hit, with the lift it should give me the additional space so I'll be able to go from the sliders to the wheels.

 

Sorry for my ignorance and potential thread hijacking:

What is a "pinch weld" and does it apply to a '85 4Runner? I plan to do a RB BL in the next couple of weeks and need to know.

Thanks,

Al

 

this is a real old thread. Use the search button for "pinch weld"

 

What year rig do you have and what are you looking to do? I'm not far away in Tuscaloosa and I've had a 3rd gen and now an 85 that I'm working on...

 

WW, '85 4Runner. I just did a Roger Brown 1" body lift Friday before last. Took about 4 hours. Only thing I had to modify was the transfer case shifter extension (it has an auto), which took about an hour.

North Alabama, Madison actually.

Thanks,

Al

 

The 285's can be run with a suspension lift only, I'm doing it. You can wheel it if you pound the pinch weld and trim a little but you won't be able to disconnect the swaybar. If you want to disconnect the bodylift is a must. By the way I have:

'99 4Runner 4x4 V6 5spd
ARB Prado Bar
Warn M8000-steel cable
Trailcarnage skidplates
OME 882's, one trim packer, OME HD shocks
OME 891's, OME HD shocks
Trailcarnage rear bumper and sliders
285 BFG MT's on 16x7 Tacoma wheels

I just don't disconnect, maybe I'll a bodylift and maybe not, I don't really need to disconnect for what I do. I have run the same trails at Tellico with the swaybar connected and disconnected and made it fine both ways.

 

The pinch weld is the standing seam that you can see running just on top of the inner tube on the sliders in the picture below:



BTW; no such thing as an "RB" body lift, see: http://www.4Crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...it.shtml#FAQ12