Body lift gap covers...where to buy?
10-11-2004, 02:25 PM
#1
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Body lift gap covers...where to buy?
Putting a 2" BL on soon...well, once I get the money.
But before I buy it and install it, I would like to get some gap guards. I hate that look of seeing through the frame and body.
What can I use? I was thinking some sort of black plastic/rubber stuff that I can either glue on or bolt on.
What are you guys using? I havent heard much about it.
Thanks!
But before I buy it and install it, I would like to get some gap guards. I hate that look of seeing through the frame and body.
What can I use? I was thinking some sort of black plastic/rubber stuff that I can either glue on or bolt on.
What are you guys using? I havent heard much about it.
Thanks!
10-11-2004, 04:12 PM
#3
Originally Posted by gapguy
Pond liner is supposed to work well. Some company makes these commercially, try a search..I think it was brought up a while back.
10-11-2004, 07:49 PM
#6
Registered User
I bought some rubber sheet at OSH and used my old gap liners as a template for making some new ones. The two sides are the same on mine so once I had one side cut out, I traced out the second. I reused the snaps and stock holes. This took me about an hour to complete. Looks much better this way. The sheet below was $10.00.
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10-12-2004, 03:19 AM
#8
Contributing Member
Originally Posted by SC4Runner
Putting a 2" BL on soon...well, once I get the money.
But before I buy it and install it, I would like to get some gap guards. I hate that look of seeing through the frame and body.
What can I use? I was thinking some sort of black plastic/rubber stuff that I can either glue on or bolt on.
What are you guys using? I havent heard much about it.
Thanks!
But before I buy it and install it, I would like to get some gap guards. I hate that look of seeing through the frame and body.
What can I use? I was thinking some sort of black plastic/rubber stuff that I can either glue on or bolt on.
What are you guys using? I havent heard much about it.
Thanks!
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...71947295nKgvpi
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...71947202hNLrgO
Buna rubber is oil resistant.
10-12-2004, 09:49 AM
#10
Contributing Member
Originally Posted by Bigkahuna808
where did you get the buna rubber?
They have a local warehouse here in OKC that I found in the yellow pages under "Rubber Products"
RGA (Rubber & Gasket Co. of America)
4401 Southwest 44th
Oklahoma City, Ok 73119
(405)688-8100
03-23-2005, 10:56 PM
#11
Contributing Member
I just did the Home Depot thing tonight and got a bunch of black runner for under $20. The part number, which may work on their website if someone wants to look it up, is 808987. Unfortunately it's 27" wide, which was easily wide enough for two "lips" for me, but no more... so I needed quite a bit of it in the length -- around 7 feet for the full-blown "lips" I wanted to do.
I carefully removed the stock plastic clips from the front (and got sore fingers to prove it), removed and traced the outline of the stock rubber shields, and enlarged them in the width and length to fit the new dimensions I wanted. I found that a paper-punch worked perfectly for making the holes. I'm embarrassed to say I tried making one hole with a 1/4" forstner bit... that was a mess. The runner is lightly textured on one side and ribbed on the other, and is tear-resistant and plenty tough and flexible. It doesn't collapse or become abraded by tightening a bolt against it. It far outstrips pool liner, vinyl or other sheet plastic. Definitely good stuff.
I carefully removed the stock plastic clips from the front (and got sore fingers to prove it), removed and traced the outline of the stock rubber shields, and enlarged them in the width and length to fit the new dimensions I wanted. I found that a paper-punch worked perfectly for making the holes. I'm embarrassed to say I tried making one hole with a 1/4" forstner bit... that was a mess. The runner is lightly textured on one side and ribbed on the other, and is tear-resistant and plenty tough and flexible. It doesn't collapse or become abraded by tightening a bolt against it. It far outstrips pool liner, vinyl or other sheet plastic. Definitely good stuff.
Last edited by photoleif; 03-23-2005 at 11:35 PM. Reason: fixed typos
03-24-2005, 04:06 AM
#12
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: High Point, NC/School at NC State
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I used the floor liner like they put on buses. I know a guy who works at Thomas built buses (I live about ten minutes from their MASSIVE manufacturing plant), so he hooked me up. I just made a template out of cardboard and used self-tapping sheet metal screws to secure it. I'll try and snap some pics this afternoon.
03-24-2005, 05:11 AM
#13
03-24-2005, 05:33 AM
#14
Contributing Member
Originally Posted by bamachem
03-24-2005, 05:40 AM
#15
Last edited by bamachem; 03-24-2005 at 05:43 AM.
03-24-2005, 06:31 AM
#16
Contributing Member
Yeah, that one works. 
I love that catalog. I used the 1/8 inch thick for mine, glad I did too because it is starting to crack a little bit around the bolt holes and any thinner might be tearing soon.
I love that catalog. I used the 1/8 inch thick for mine, glad I did too because it is starting to crack a little bit around the bolt holes and any thinner might be tearing soon.
07-20-2005, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Ric
hey all,
those of you that did something to the BL gap, could ya let me know how that stuff is holding up ? and let me know what ya used.
Thankx
those of you that did something to the BL gap, could ya let me know how that stuff is holding up ? and let me know what ya used.
Thankx
Originally Posted by bamachem
07-21-2005, 11:47 AM
#20
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Here's tip for those trying to poke holes in rubber and the like. When I did my mud flaps (easily 5/16" thick) here is how I punched holes. I scrounged around and found a piece of steel tube with about 5/16" inner diam. I think it was the sleeve from an old shock mount or suspension bushing or something. I ran it against the grinding wheel, turning it around all the time, so that one end is now a sharp hollow punch. Then place the rubber on a block of wood, hold the punch in place - whack with hammer. Perfect holes. (Learned this years ago when making up full width mud flaps for motor homes...)
