For any of you with ball joint spacers (and no 4" lift), at your convenience could you please take a measurement with the front jacked up from the bottom of the shock mount to the best approximate center of the lower shock bolt?

I'm sure you are all wondering, "Why doesn't he just measure his own truck?" The reason is while I have the spacers I have a 4" lift. And, while it is likely reasonable that I could simply subtract 4" from whatever I get, I feel a lot better getting numbers off of an actual truck. Basically I'm in the process of taking care of the shocks-are-too-short issue and need this measurement.

Thanks in advance.

Frank

 

Hey Frank, do you want the distance from the shock mount in the lower A arm to the lower shock mount hole with the shock unbolted on a stock shock(sizing for a spacer)? If nobody has gotten back to you before I can check mine this evening when I get home, I have stock bils and one of the fronts hasnt been shimmed yet.

 

ok, I can help since no one else has responded........you want the length with the truck sitting on the driveway, weight on it, right? And as far as subtracting 4" that probably isn't going to give you the right measurement anyway.

Let me know what you need and I'll get you the measurement. I'm not sure I'm following what you want.

 

I'm looking for the fully extended length. Basically I know how short it gets, I just need to see how long it gets when the suspension is at full droop. The distance between the underside of the upper shock mount and center of the bolt that holds the lower part of the shock typically determines it's extended length. (I can then adjust for different bushings, etc...)

I appreciate the help.

Frank

 

Not sure what exactly you mean on the measurement, but I will check later after supper.

My spacers gave the desired effect, but I wonder if they allow too much compression? I replaced a dead idler arm that was deformed at the shaft and got stuck to my frame twice while wheeling.

 

That measurement could be useful too. I think it would be easier to just jack up the front and hold a tape measure up to it though assuming you use the shimmed one.

Frank

 

I get 15 and 1/8th inches with the upper A-arm resting on the stock bumpstop and using a shimmed shock. The CVs dont look very happy at that angle. Anyway, hope that helps!

 

That's perfect!

Frank

 

This might sound like an odd question but did you by chance work with Chimney Canyon 4X4? They emailed me with a question stating something to the effect of what you did.

Actually, the forces the push the idler arm up are only present when the wheels droop. At full compression the tie rods are level or pointing up slightly which would push the arm downwards away from the frame. At droop the tie rods angle downwards pushing up. (there's pulling too depending on which way you are turning but all failures of which I'm aware occured from pushing the arm upwards)

Coming from someone who has bent arms with stock and mod'd suspension I can tell you, an idler brace is a MUST for our IFS. The idler arm is a notoriously weak link in an otherwise strong well thoughtout set up. You wheel, it's gonna fail, just a matter of when.

Frank