Looking at the pics, it seems that aftermarket wheels having smaller BS will have a lot more to grind unless a wheel spacer is provided to account for the thicker calipers.

Am I correct in this?

 

I suspect that any wheel will have the same or less to grind not more. The stock wheels had only 3mm clearance from the calipers so any aftermarket wheels must have had AT LEAST that (otherwise they would not have fit the stock set-up), thus would have to be ground the same amount or less. The important thing here is that the clearance to the OUTSIDE wheel rim (which cannot be ground) is the same as the stock wheel so any 16" rim that fits the stock brakes will fit the Tundra calipers/rotors.

 

Hum, this is good info and a mod that I really should do. I have the 16" alloys that were used on the Tacoma's and Tundra's-I wonder if there would be any trimming involved for me?

 

so eleben, you have the 199mm brakes. those were TSB'd cause they caused braking vibration in the tundra. but i'm guessing you don't feel any of that in the lighter 4runner right?

the 199s may be weak for the tundra, but just fine and still an improvement and over stock 4runner brakes it seems

those of you that are thinking of doing this mod, are you gonna go 199s or 231s and trim? i'm thinking i'll go 199 as long as there's no problems with using them on the 4runner. i still haven't decide on who to buy the parts from. maybe raybestos

 

Yeah, I have the 199mm brakes and they're fine. As Fingers pointed out, the true benefit of the mod is the larger Tundra rotor. The stronger caliper in the Tundra is just an added benefit (I believe they are both 4 piston w/ the Tundra just having bigger pistons).

FYI, I also used Raybestos fully-loaded calipers and Brembo slotted rotors. I'm assuming the pads that came with the calipers are metallic but I'm not sure. When my pads need replacing in the future, I'll go w/ steel-braided brake lines and more performance-oriented pads.

 

Most aftermarket wheels with small BS have the spokes attached to or near the center of the rim. This is unlike the the stock wheels which have the spokes attached to the outer lip of the rim.

So in the case of the aftermarket wheels, the calipers will hit a bigger area unlike in the stock wheels wherein the the calipers hit only the corners which you indicated in the pics because the spokes angle outwards toward the outer lip.

 

1. Do you have the part numbers for the 199 and 231 calipers?

2. The stock backspacing on the 16x7 wheels is 4.375". So if you get some aftermarket wheels with 4" of backspacing, there should be more space for the rotor right?

 

Quick update. 231mm Tundra brakes have been flawless now for a month. They seemed to get stronger/smoother after they were broken in. I did have to rebleed after a week cuz I rushed the first time and now I have a firmer pedal. I sent the original calipers back to PartsAmerica.com and they refunded me the $75/each core charge even though the calipers were different (although I did not point this out to them). I think by far the best brake bang-for-the-buck improvement you can do.

 

how much did everything end up costing you?

 

Calipers, brake pads and rotors $607.00 Shipped minus $150.00 core = $457.00. One crushed pair of serengeti sunglasses $125 (left them under the lift). Ruined pants with brake fluid $35.00 (not a total loss though). Lift fee at garage $10.00. Brake fluid $4.50. 3" Grinding wheel $6.00. Shudderless brakes PRICELESS.

 

Thanks for the comparison pics on the calipers Fingers!
I am going to go hunting for Tundra calipers/rotors come spring for sure.

 

Fingers did you have the 15" wheels with the smaller 4runner calipers.


i wonder who has a comparison of the 16" sport edition calipers vs the tundras.

 

im getting ready to order my bits and wonder if anyone has experience with a company called Nu-Geon? http://www.nugeon.com/
i can get the calipers for about $20ea less than raybestos

 

I had the 16" wheels with the larger calipers stock. All Limiteds came this way I believe.

 

I am surprised no one went on to www.tundrasolutions.com and offered to buy old front brake setups from people looking to upgrade. Often with new aftermarket brakes there is no core so poeple just throw them in the trash (caliper and rotor). Shipping might be a few $$$ but parts could likely be gotten for pretty cheap (might need cleaning and painting but that's it). I am banished to junkyards up here because shipping to the north pole is rediculously expensive . Just a thought for people looking to upgrade anyway.

BTW here is a shot of brake pad differences:


(to sum up the pic if the link disappears later):
4.7" pads = D812 = 2000~early 2003.
5.3" pads = D976 = late 2003~present plus front brake TSB changes.

Few more photos of someone rebuilding the Tundra calipers:
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/photo...ry.php/cat/657

Thread where a guy rebuilt them:
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...highlight=13WL

This also has some great info on the old vs new calipers:
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...hlight=caliper

Sounds like the smaller calipers will have S13WE and the larger ones will have 13WL cast into them for ID (stamp will be on the inside portion of the caliper, ie facing the engine near the bleeder screw).

You can see the stamp on the left side in this pic (13WL):


From what I have read it seems like the smaller S13WE calipers will fit on the 4runners with alot less fuss or modification. Hopefully this is all the info people need to be able to do this mod reliably on our 4runners.

Supposedly these are good pads to use on this mod:
D976QS pads = Raybestos QuietStop
D976M pads = Raybestos Noise Solution
EBC 6000, Akebono Ceramic

 

idea. i just did.

 

Edwin and Fingers, any chance you guys would be willing to go out and look at the casting numbers on your brake calipers so we can know for sure what type you each have installed (ie was your caliper an S13WE or an 13WL) ?

 

I did but do not have either number under the bleeder screw. I only have a part number (at least I think it is) from Raybestos. It's L701 and this number came from the middle part of the caliper vs. the area you identified. Is it possible that the OEM part number is different than after-market. I maybe missing something so let's see if Fingers chimes in.

 

Edwin,
The number should be on the opposite side of the bleeder screw (bleeder is on far right, caliper ID is on far left).

It is possible you have something different but it seemed like all the casting should have one or the other IDs on them from what I read.

You might have also been looking at the wrong side of the caliper (I have a feeling you were looking at the outside....pic shows outside):


you want the inside of the caliper (PN is on the very left, 13WL, under the bolt head):

 

I just places a WTB ad a tundrsolutins.

I would love upgraded brakes, but for some reason I am over thinking this mod--damn varying p/ns....