Thank you Sir.

 

Just out of curiosity...is there a reason that they have a disconnected number? Seems a little fishy to me.



Edit...NM I'm slow today

 

I assure you the largest Toyota dealer in Tacoma/Fife that just went through a multi-million dollar remodel does not have a disconnected number

 

Don't know I never call them. I've ordered thousands of dollars in parts from them their legit.

Didn't see your edit until after I posted whoops!

 

Thanks guys. I am on a work network that doesn't allow 800#s hence the disconnected notice. I called on my cell and the guy who answered was more than helpful. Great prices too.

Def Legit.

 

404 error, not found.

 

Broke this during removal.. that $70 price tag is stupid
added to junkyard item list...:/

 

I am in the same boat as you, how did you determine which hose connects which side?

 

These things are notorious for failing on the 1UZ, and the major consensus with the LS400 guys is to remove the idle up valve and replace it with a bolt, and plug the vacuum on the manifold. This effectively removes the system and stops all leaking, etc... you do lose the idle up effect at full crank and idle, but it's only like +-200 RPM and you most likely won't even notice it's gone.. I bought a remanufactured pump for one of my LS's and it was plugged when I received it. The pump never worked, so I went brand new Lexus OEM for $550 (!!!) and it was plugged also from factory. I believe some 1UZ-FE models came plugged from the factory, such as the SC400. In other words, you don't need it and even Toyota knows it. I would just plug it and be done for like $5 or less. Just go match the threads at a local hardware store.

 

I did plug mine with a bolt after the replacement valve failed within 5k miles.

 

 

I can't believe I have not heard of this issue until now. This thread saved my bacon! My oil level has been increasing about half a quart every 3k miles and getting black and thinned out. And my power steering has been going down with no leaks other than a minor drip.

I bought a honda drain plug M14x1.5 and it threads in mostly, but wont go in all the way to seal on the crush washer. Teflon tape should be the ticket. Thanks all

 

I did a quick search for a 2003 3rz PS pressure switch and this is the part # I found. I wonder if it would be possible to change from a vacuum switch (i have a 99) to the electric, and wire it into the a/c idle up circuit (so the truck thinks the a/c is on when the PS pressure increases - thereby boosting the idle). I may look into that when i get around to wiring my swap.

 

I cant figure out where to tubes go. I bought a truck and this part is all mangled with. Where do there two tubes connect? Where does the loop go?

 

This is my first post but super important. I installed a reman PS pump and installed the air control valve from the old pump to the new one. Installed it and the threads were leaking. The valve has a female flare but the pump does not have a male flare to match up. How the hell do you seal this valve against the pump so it doesn’t leak?

 

Pretty sure the tubes don’t matter which port they hook to on the valve. They are two vacuum lines that originate in the intake.