Better! The Velocity Stack Mod for your airbox (8hp for $3).
#22
Stack Mod info, redux.
Informing the masses, shameless plug. Potato, potato. Tomato, tomato. Hmm, that's funnier when you say it out loud.
I appreciate everyone's attention, and sure, it helps, but at least I come bearing gifts. 8hp for $3 is legitimate info. Also, I was raised Catholic(ish) so nothing is shameless...
I wrote the story on this idea after reading about the deck-plate mod over and over; I figured the Yota Yuniverse deserved to know about cheap ponies. The dyno results are the important part - power to the ground.
I'll talk to James about doing a full datalogging run, back to back - he's pretty cool about it because my mods take ten minutes, and he gets all the action. I'll have to find an OEM airbox (that was my principal delay originally, because i wanted to have a stock donor box to hack up). I wound up hacking the airbox that came in my truck.
A larger copy of the graph is attached.
STICK
I appreciate everyone's attention, and sure, it helps, but at least I come bearing gifts. 8hp for $3 is legitimate info. Also, I was raised Catholic(ish) so nothing is shameless...
I wrote the story on this idea after reading about the deck-plate mod over and over; I figured the Yota Yuniverse deserved to know about cheap ponies. The dyno results are the important part - power to the ground.
I'll talk to James about doing a full datalogging run, back to back - he's pretty cool about it because my mods take ten minutes, and he gets all the action. I'll have to find an OEM airbox (that was my principal delay originally, because i wanted to have a stock donor box to hack up). I wound up hacking the airbox that came in my truck.
A larger copy of the graph is attached.
STICK
Last edited by Fink; 07-10-2010 at 12:54 PM.
#23
#25
What, can't say what? Starts with a buh, ends with an ohner? Sorry, I figured I was the most polite feller here.
As for gNARLS, well, you said it. W-W-W-worthless. I don't know what I can provide besides WHEEL horsepower and torque figures on a CERTIFIED and CALIBRATED Mustang road-force dyno (which does exactly that - impart the amount of load that the road creates to most accurately reflect real figures). If that's not enough for you, don't do it.
I appreciate the support, folks. Apologies for my tone (and I deleted a bunch of flamethrowing I'd planned, so say thank you), but does anyone else think some people are negative for no reason? Some of it's not even logical - if the vehicle was moving on the street instead of sitting on the dyno, there's better air, and it would deliver more of it to the stack and the numbers would go up a tic, not to mention improved cooling (though we did have two fans breathing on the truck during the runs).
As for K&N, a reputable manufacturer like that can't make stuff up. They stake their business on the function of their product, and wouldn't last long in this litigation-frenzied world if they couldn't account for their figures. Bet you a beer they've got at least one dyno in-house. I'll be getting certified dyno results for a drop-in K&N soon, too, so we can bookend their assertions with independent testing. I've got no agenda - if something doesn't go, I'll say so.
I figured an idea this simple would smoke out a few whiners... Meanwhile, I'll stand by my work. I put together a nice piece, and the details of the story are more than enough to satisfy the usual suspects.
Have a NICE day.
STICK
As for gNARLS, well, you said it. W-W-W-worthless. I don't know what I can provide besides WHEEL horsepower and torque figures on a CERTIFIED and CALIBRATED Mustang road-force dyno (which does exactly that - impart the amount of load that the road creates to most accurately reflect real figures). If that's not enough for you, don't do it.
I appreciate the support, folks. Apologies for my tone (and I deleted a bunch of flamethrowing I'd planned, so say thank you), but does anyone else think some people are negative for no reason? Some of it's not even logical - if the vehicle was moving on the street instead of sitting on the dyno, there's better air, and it would deliver more of it to the stack and the numbers would go up a tic, not to mention improved cooling (though we did have two fans breathing on the truck during the runs).
As for K&N, a reputable manufacturer like that can't make stuff up. They stake their business on the function of their product, and wouldn't last long in this litigation-frenzied world if they couldn't account for their figures. Bet you a beer they've got at least one dyno in-house. I'll be getting certified dyno results for a drop-in K&N soon, too, so we can bookend their assertions with independent testing. I've got no agenda - if something doesn't go, I'll say so.
I figured an idea this simple would smoke out a few whiners... Meanwhile, I'll stand by my work. I put together a nice piece, and the details of the story are more than enough to satisfy the usual suspects.
Have a NICE day.
STICK
#27
Headlight = IN.
Nothing was altered but the airbox. We even matched cool-down times. I did it right.
Also, the big fan was pointed diagonally, so the airstream was passing over the front of the truck at an angle which would have blocked the airbox from any flow improvements. I'd have needed to yank the starboard light cluster to get any additional airflow. All the fan did was keep the air around the vehicle from being stagnant.
STICK
Nothing was altered but the airbox. We even matched cool-down times. I did it right.
Also, the big fan was pointed diagonally, so the airstream was passing over the front of the truck at an angle which would have blocked the airbox from any flow improvements. I'd have needed to yank the starboard light cluster to get any additional airflow. All the fan did was keep the air around the vehicle from being stagnant.
STICK
#28
Sounds like you are making solid, repeatable tests stick... don't let the nay say-ers bring you down... document the heck out of everything ie what brand/grade fuel running, ambient temp in shop, plus all the usual mech stuff. and you'll have data that will be very hard for anyone to refute.
Those of us that have done the deckplate or cone filter mods know there is a diff. over stock now we will have the test numbers to back it up.
Thanks for the effort.
Those of us that have done the deckplate or cone filter mods know there is a diff. over stock now we will have the test numbers to back it up.
Thanks for the effort.
#30
There is nothing to refute, the idea of using a velocity stack like that is simply ridiculous.
The point of a velocity stack is to get air moving down a pipe in an orderly manner.
There is no pipe in the OP's design, and a simple 4" diameter opening in the air box is WAY more than enough to suck in air for a 3.4L. It hits the filter right right after the stack! It's useless. That stack won't change the air flow neither in theory nor practice.
The point of a velocity stack is to get air moving down a pipe in an orderly manner.
There is no pipe in the OP's design, and a simple 4" diameter opening in the air box is WAY more than enough to suck in air for a 3.4L. It hits the filter right right after the stack! It's useless. That stack won't change the air flow neither in theory nor practice.
#31
There is nothing to refute, the idea of using a velocity stack like that is simply ridiculous.
The point of a velocity stack is to get air moving down a pipe in an orderly manner.
There is no pipe in the OP's design, and a simple 4" diameter opening in the air box is WAY more than enough to suck in air for a 3.4L. It hits the filter right right after the stack! It's useless. That stack won't change the air flow neither in theory nor practice.
The point of a velocity stack is to get air moving down a pipe in an orderly manner.
There is no pipe in the OP's design, and a simple 4" diameter opening in the air box is WAY more than enough to suck in air for a 3.4L. It hits the filter right right after the stack! It's useless. That stack won't change the air flow neither in theory nor practice.
If you don't like it then don't do it and quit crapping all over Justin's thread.
Nice work Stick...keep blazin the trail brotha
#34
There is nothing to refute, the idea of using a velocity stack like that is simply ridiculous.
The point of a velocity stack is to get air moving down a pipe in an orderly manner.
There is no pipe in the OP's design, and a simple 4" diameter opening in the air box is WAY more than enough to suck in air for a 3.4L. It hits the filter right right after the stack! It's useless. That stack won't change the air flow neither in theory nor practice.
The point of a velocity stack is to get air moving down a pipe in an orderly manner.
There is no pipe in the OP's design, and a simple 4" diameter opening in the air box is WAY more than enough to suck in air for a 3.4L. It hits the filter right right after the stack! It's useless. That stack won't change the air flow neither in theory nor practice.
Do you think that the deckplate is a legitimately beneficial mod?
Give it up dude, jeez...you must be an Obama supporter cause those are the only people I know who can look facts in the face and say they are not true.
If you don't like it then don't do it and quit crapping all over Justin's thread.
Nice work Stick...keep blazin the trail brotha
If you don't like it then don't do it and quit crapping all over Justin's thread.
Nice work Stick...keep blazin the trail brotha
Fink
Last edited by Fink; 07-12-2010 at 10:32 AM.
#35
#36
#37
Wow, it surprises me how some folks on here are just so negative sometimes. Give the guy a break, he's trying to do real research here and possibly improve upon an already very pouplar mod. It makes sense to me how a velocity stack could direct even more airflow into the engine than just a hole would. Maybe it works, maybe it doesn't, but to make up your mind that it will not work "in theory nor practice" without trying it out for yourself or at least waiting until all the data is in so we can compare results is the only ridiculous thing in this thread.
#38
Hey Justin,
Were the headlights turned on during this dyno run? Was the radio on? Are you absolutely sure none of your brakes were dragging and the preload on your wheel bearings was within factory specs?
Finally, did you test this on a red 4Runner in addition to your green one? I've heard they're faster.
See ya in a couple weeks. Keep up the entertainment.
Were the headlights turned on during this dyno run? Was the radio on? Are you absolutely sure none of your brakes were dragging and the preload on your wheel bearings was within factory specs?
Finally, did you test this on a red 4Runner in addition to your green one? I've heard they're faster.
See ya in a couple weeks. Keep up the entertainment.
Last edited by Ardent; 07-12-2010 at 11:54 AM.
#40
I used to take "ridiculous" as a compliment... Just when you think dyno results are proof enough, the Obamunists get involved and it's allllll about their feelings. How do you feel about incompetence?
If someone in the San Diego metrocomplex would like to loan me their deck-plated or Swiss-cheesed airbox for the gen-three 4Runner/Taco, I'm sure we can do a different back-to-back on the dyno (deck-plate versus stack) when we do our drop-in K&N test. Keep in mind, we're getting the dyno time at Reese Tuning's convenience, so I don't want to ask for too much. James Reese has been super helpful already.
Oh yeah, Dutch is completely right - if you overoil the K&N, it buries the mass-air. Had that happen with my 5.0, and it drove me nuts with the cleaning and ohming and swearing until I saw the filter dripping after recleaning it. I realized that if gravity was making the filter leave a puddle, what was a high-RPM small-block doing in the other direction? You don't need much oil, just enough to turn it pink. The important part is that the oil is evenly applied.
STICKing with all the support - thanks!
If someone in the San Diego metrocomplex would like to loan me their deck-plated or Swiss-cheesed airbox for the gen-three 4Runner/Taco, I'm sure we can do a different back-to-back on the dyno (deck-plate versus stack) when we do our drop-in K&N test. Keep in mind, we're getting the dyno time at Reese Tuning's convenience, so I don't want to ask for too much. James Reese has been super helpful already.
Oh yeah, Dutch is completely right - if you overoil the K&N, it buries the mass-air. Had that happen with my 5.0, and it drove me nuts with the cleaning and ohming and swearing until I saw the filter dripping after recleaning it. I realized that if gravity was making the filter leave a puddle, what was a high-RPM small-block doing in the other direction? You don't need much oil, just enough to turn it pink. The important part is that the oil is evenly applied.
STICKing with all the support - thanks!