best subs?
#22
Registered User
Cebby:
You got good taste in speakers
The old Diamond Audio Hex series was made by Eaton and at every competition I went to they just sounded great, and Dynaudio is simply amazing stuff. If and when I decide to upgrade from my Focal Polykevs I would love to get a Dynaudio System 340, Focal Utopia, or the Seas Excel.
You got good taste in speakers
The old Diamond Audio Hex series was made by Eaton and at every competition I went to they just sounded great, and Dynaudio is simply amazing stuff. If and when I decide to upgrade from my Focal Polykevs I would love to get a Dynaudio System 340, Focal Utopia, or the Seas Excel.
#23
Registered User
Originally posted by trangk
Cebby:
You got good taste in speakers
The old Diamond Audio Hex series was made by Eaton and at every competition I went to they just sounded great, and Dynaudio is simply amazing stuff. If and when I decide to upgrade from my Focal Polykevs I would love to get a Dynaudio System 340, Focal Utopia, or the Seas Excel.
Cebby:
You got good taste in speakers
The old Diamond Audio Hex series was made by Eaton and at every competition I went to they just sounded great, and Dynaudio is simply amazing stuff. If and when I decide to upgrade from my Focal Polykevs I would love to get a Dynaudio System 340, Focal Utopia, or the Seas Excel.
#24
Registered User
Originally posted by Cebby
Obviously you also shop here like I do...
Obviously you also shop here like I do...
I also shop at www.zalytron.com (just ordered a set of Raven ribbon tweeters).
I'm guessing your really into audio ... mind if I ask what sorta stuff you have purchased/built from madisound? You can PM me if this is getting off topic ...
#25
Registered User
Originally posted by trangk
I also shop at www.zalytron.com (just ordered a set of Raven ribbon tweeters).
I also shop at www.zalytron.com (just ordered a set of Raven ribbon tweeters).
I've bought a few things over the years from them: Vifa tweeters and small mids, Dyn mids and mid bass, Eton mids. All I have left to put in my 4Runner is the Dyn mids (6" with a 3" VC - can you say QUICK?) Never bought any subs from them though. I used to compete in IASCA for a few years in the 90's. I had a pair of Celestion 15's that were probably the best subs I ever had (4" VC). They only made car stuff for a couple of years. I used them when I was in Pro 0-100. They hammered on a RF Punch 40 DSM bridged.
Now, I run a normal Alpine head with stock speakers. This will change over the summer though. I have 3 of the good RF Punch amps, Dyn Mids, Boston Neo tweets, Alpine 1310, a pair of Alpine 3681's and a 5957S. Fiber and digital time alignment - YEAH! Gotta figure out the low end...
#26
What do any of you competitors think of the Sound Stream 15" SPL?
I ran one in my rig until it blew (details on my stereo page) and I replaced it with the JL W6 15" I have now.
I can send it back to them and they will fix the coil that blew (it's a duelie) and put on a new cone for about $125 or so.
I ran one in my rig until it blew (details on my stereo page) and I replaced it with the JL W6 15" I have now.
I can send it back to them and they will fix the coil that blew (it's a duelie) and put on a new cone for about $125 or so.
#28
Registered User
Cebby:
No, the Raven's are for home use. I am planning on rebuilding the two main speakers in my home theater setup (right now each cabinet is running 2 7" Focal Utopia with a Focal TC90 kevlar tweeter). The Raven's are going to replace the TC90.
Wow, hope you take pics of that setup. Are you planning on competing again? Would love to hear your stuff . My setup right now is an Eclipse 7002 w/Eclipse 5962, Focal 6.5 Polykev w/Vifa tweeters and custom crossovers from Madisound, Illusion Audio ND10, Zapco AG350 (2x150 for front) and a second AG350 (1x 350 for the sub), Zapco SLBTP for converting RCA to balanced input. Much more modest than your setup however.
I definately recommend the Illusion Audio sub if you want a good SQ sub.
No, the Raven's are for home use. I am planning on rebuilding the two main speakers in my home theater setup (right now each cabinet is running 2 7" Focal Utopia with a Focal TC90 kevlar tweeter). The Raven's are going to replace the TC90.
Wow, hope you take pics of that setup. Are you planning on competing again? Would love to hear your stuff . My setup right now is an Eclipse 7002 w/Eclipse 5962, Focal 6.5 Polykev w/Vifa tweeters and custom crossovers from Madisound, Illusion Audio ND10, Zapco AG350 (2x150 for front) and a second AG350 (1x 350 for the sub), Zapco SLBTP for converting RCA to balanced input. Much more modest than your setup however.
I definately recommend the Illusion Audio sub if you want a good SQ sub.
#30
Registered User
Corey:
I've never heard the Sound Stream SPL series, but for what it's worth, Vifa used to make alot of the Sound Stream speakers (the SS Exact component system used the same Vifa tweeter I'm using now)
Personally, I think the $125 is a bit steep for reconditioning that sub and I'd rather run the JL
I've never heard the Sound Stream SPL series, but for what it's worth, Vifa used to make alot of the Sound Stream speakers (the SS Exact component system used the same Vifa tweeter I'm using now)
Personally, I think the $125 is a bit steep for reconditioning that sub and I'd rather run the JL
#32
Registered User
Originally posted by trangk
...Wow, hope you take pics of that setup. Are you planning on competing again? Would love to hear your stuff . My setup right now is an Eclipse 7002 w/Eclipse 5962, Focal 6.5 Polykev w/Vifa tweeters and custom crossovers from Madisound, Illusion Audio ND10, Zapco AG350 (2x150 for front) and a second AG350 (1x 350 for the sub), Zapco SLBTP for converting RCA to balanced input. Much more modest than your setup however.
...Wow, hope you take pics of that setup. Are you planning on competing again? Would love to hear your stuff . My setup right now is an Eclipse 7002 w/Eclipse 5962, Focal 6.5 Polykev w/Vifa tweeters and custom crossovers from Madisound, Illusion Audio ND10, Zapco AG350 (2x150 for front) and a second AG350 (1x 350 for the sub), Zapco SLBTP for converting RCA to balanced input. Much more modest than your setup however.
My home theater is more tame than your. All Yamaha electronics, Boston powered 10 sub, and MB Quart .5's all around.
I'll have to look around, I might still have some replacement domes for the Vifa's. I'll send them to you if I do since I don't have any Vifa's anymore.
#33
Registered User
Originally posted by trangk
Corey:
I've never heard the Sound Stream SPL series, but for what it's worth, Vifa used to make alot of the Sound Stream speakers (the SS Exact component system used the same Vifa tweeter I'm using now)
Personally, I think the $125 is a bit steep for reconditioning that sub and I'd rather run the JL
Corey:
I've never heard the Sound Stream SPL series, but for what it's worth, Vifa used to make alot of the Sound Stream speakers (the SS Exact component system used the same Vifa tweeter I'm using now)
Personally, I think the $125 is a bit steep for reconditioning that sub and I'd rather run the JL
#34
Registered User
I see everyone here is also big time into sounds.... Here are my favorite 2 system forums:
www.termpro.com
termpro is actually were the rules are discussed and whatnot for db drag - basically the official site ( and my favorite )
http://pub26.ezboard.com/bcaraudioforum87927
db don's forum - maker of the infamous and renowned Inhuman, PSI, and X-1 subs - also the first to sell quad coil subs at least in my memory.
www.termpro.com
termpro is actually were the rules are discussed and whatnot for db drag - basically the official site ( and my favorite )
http://pub26.ezboard.com/bcaraudioforum87927
db don's forum - maker of the infamous and renowned Inhuman, PSI, and X-1 subs - also the first to sell quad coil subs at least in my memory.
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 03-09-2003 at 04:19 AM.
#35
Registered User
Originally posted by Corey
What do any of you competitors think of the Sound Stream 15" SPL?
I ran one in my rig until it blew (details on my stereo page) and I replaced it with the JL W6 15" I have now.
I can send it back to them and they will fix the coil that blew (it's a duelie) and put on a new cone for about $125 or so.
What do any of you competitors think of the Sound Stream 15" SPL?
I ran one in my rig until it blew (details on my stereo page) and I replaced it with the JL W6 15" I have now.
I can send it back to them and they will fix the coil that blew (it's a duelie) and put on a new cone for about $125 or so.
#36
Registered User
Originally posted by CLin9383
what do you guys think about the JL 10w7...i dont think i need a 12 inch cause i heard the w7 series kick a$$ already...i just want some bass..not ghettofy my car
what do you guys think about the JL 10w7...i dont think i need a 12 inch cause i heard the w7 series kick a$$ already...i just want some bass..not ghettofy my car
steve
#37
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Columbia, SC
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What is it you want?
doink,
You gotta tell us what it is you want. I have 4 1200w 12's in the back of my 4Runner and it actually broke the rear view mirror once from the bass. I'm guessing you don't want that though. Mine however are for SPL, not as good on the SQ side. If I could do it again, I think I'd go with only two 12"s with good SQ. If you want sound quality, that's quite a bit different than pure SPL. JL makes good stuff (SPL and SQ), but I think they're overrated honestly. Audiobahn subs are also top of the line, but they're more for SPL and expensive too. If you've ever heard of Diamond Audio, their stuff is also good, but expensive -- hence their name. Memphis Audio has good all-around subs, and they're middle-of-the-line prices. Also, if you see "Class D" on amy amplifiers, that also means they're top of the line usually. If means they are powerful but still have under a 0.05% total harmonic distortion (THD) rate. They're what you'd call clean amps. Another thing you have to consider is what kind of music you listen to. If it's more on the rock side, a 10" or two might sound better because they have tighter bass and don't get as low. If it's more hip-hop, 15" might be better -- more low-end beaty bass. The compromise is 12" (well actually 13.5" but JL's the only one I know of that makes that size). Then you have to consider box size. Bigger box means boomier bass because the face of the sub will have more excursion. Also usually two 10's will sound better than 1 12" because the sound waves get more of a chance to interact with each other, and more interaction actually amplifies the sound a little bit more naturally. Well, if you want a technical explanation, that's it.
Zach
You gotta tell us what it is you want. I have 4 1200w 12's in the back of my 4Runner and it actually broke the rear view mirror once from the bass. I'm guessing you don't want that though. Mine however are for SPL, not as good on the SQ side. If I could do it again, I think I'd go with only two 12"s with good SQ. If you want sound quality, that's quite a bit different than pure SPL. JL makes good stuff (SPL and SQ), but I think they're overrated honestly. Audiobahn subs are also top of the line, but they're more for SPL and expensive too. If you've ever heard of Diamond Audio, their stuff is also good, but expensive -- hence their name. Memphis Audio has good all-around subs, and they're middle-of-the-line prices. Also, if you see "Class D" on amy amplifiers, that also means they're top of the line usually. If means they are powerful but still have under a 0.05% total harmonic distortion (THD) rate. They're what you'd call clean amps. Another thing you have to consider is what kind of music you listen to. If it's more on the rock side, a 10" or two might sound better because they have tighter bass and don't get as low. If it's more hip-hop, 15" might be better -- more low-end beaty bass. The compromise is 12" (well actually 13.5" but JL's the only one I know of that makes that size). Then you have to consider box size. Bigger box means boomier bass because the face of the sub will have more excursion. Also usually two 10's will sound better than 1 12" because the sound waves get more of a chance to interact with each other, and more interaction actually amplifies the sound a little bit more naturally. Well, if you want a technical explanation, that's it.
Zach
Last edited by White SR5; 03-09-2003 at 07:45 AM.
#38
Re: What is it you want?
Originally posted by White SR5
Also usually two 10's will sound better than 1 12" because the sound waves get more of a chance to interact with each other, and more interaction actually amplifies the sound a little bit more naturally. Well, if you want a technical explanation, that's it.
Zach
Also usually two 10's will sound better than 1 12" because the sound waves get more of a chance to interact with each other, and more interaction actually amplifies the sound a little bit more naturally. Well, if you want a technical explanation, that's it.
Zach
#39
Registered User
Re: Re: What is it you want?
Originally posted by Los Gatos?
Sorry White SR5...I have to call B.S. on that one. It is true that 2 10's will be louder than 1 12" at a given wattage, but that is due to more cone area, not 'sound wave interaction,' as far as I know. I also don't believe they will sound better inherently.
Sorry White SR5...I have to call B.S. on that one. It is true that 2 10's will be louder than 1 12" at a given wattage, but that is due to more cone area, not 'sound wave interaction,' as far as I know. I also don't believe they will sound better inherently.
It is a general rule of thumb that as you double cone area, you increase the volume by 3db. If you double the power, you also increase by 3db. (This is due to decibel's logarithic scale.)
Now to the 2 10's vs 1 12' example as it's time for some math....
The theoretical cone area of a 12 is 109.9 sq inches
The theoretical cone area of 2 10s is 157.1 sq inches
You therefore have 50% more cone area and the pair of 10s will be 1.5db louder.
btw - a bigger box is "boomier" most of the time not becuase the face of the sub has more excursion, but rather the transfer function of the box has a large peak at the frequency where the "boominess" occurs. If you want more excursion you can just apply more power if that was what you were getting at...
...however then you can run into problems with thermal cooling, over excursion/incursion, back electromotive force (EMF), larger impeadance swings, and the list goes on...
#40
Registered User
Re: Re: Re: What is it you want?
Originally posted by Bumpin' Yota
It is a general rule of thumb that as you double cone area, you increase the volume by 3db. If you double the power, you also increase by 3db. (This is due to decibel's logarithic scale.)
Now to the 2 10's vs 1 12' example as it's time for some math....
The theoretical cone area of a 12 is 109.9 sq inches
The theoretical cone area of 2 10s is 157.1 sq inches
You therefore have 50% more cone area and the pair of 10s will be 1.5db louder.
btw - a bigger box is "boomier" most of the time not becuase the face of the sub has more excursion, but rather the transfer function of the box has a large peak at the frequency where the "boominess" occurs. If you want more excursion you can just apply more power if that was what you were getting at...
...however then you can run into problems with thermal cooling, over excursion/incursion, back electromotive force (EMF), larger impeadance swings, and the list goes on...
It is a general rule of thumb that as you double cone area, you increase the volume by 3db. If you double the power, you also increase by 3db. (This is due to decibel's logarithic scale.)
Now to the 2 10's vs 1 12' example as it's time for some math....
The theoretical cone area of a 12 is 109.9 sq inches
The theoretical cone area of 2 10s is 157.1 sq inches
You therefore have 50% more cone area and the pair of 10s will be 1.5db louder.
btw - a bigger box is "boomier" most of the time not becuase the face of the sub has more excursion, but rather the transfer function of the box has a large peak at the frequency where the "boominess" occurs. If you want more excursion you can just apply more power if that was what you were getting at...
...however then you can run into problems with thermal cooling, over excursion/incursion, back electromotive force (EMF), larger impeadance swings, and the list goes on...