Playing around in photoshop
Before:


After: (The rack is my own design, I've got a friend who is a good welder and we're working on that right now. Also working on the rock guards on the bottom. I'm trying for a 4" lift with 32x11.5x15 m/ts, also removed decals, dent in the rear and flaps)

shop:

 

That would be very nice!!! Make sure you sent us the finished picture!!

 

It always starts with a dream. Btw, I have removed that exact stripe. PITA. Took like 10 hours work all said and done but worth it. Just a hair dryer and some goof off .... and a lot of hard work.

 

Just a note on the stripe removal, or any graphics, adhesive, etc. There is a tool that professional body shop guys use to remove such things. It's basically a giant eraser on a wheel. It would take the stripe right off, like within 1 hour rather than 10.

-Wrench

 

here is something to think about, those slider supports angle a lot, and would probably not support properly with a direct rock slide to them, might bend in...

also if you plan on making hte rack that big.. watch out, as the shells roof is probably fiberglass and may not be able to support that, and the roof of the truck wasnt setup with rails on it, so you would have to figure out someway to mount it, maybe a front like channel clip on lightbar and in hte rear maybe an exterior rack to come up on the sides or something where no direct stress is placed on the fiberglass....

 

On the rock sliders I was thinking about something similar to this guys http://bajataco.com as for the rack supports, I was thinking of putting 4 "feet" on each side along the curved part of the shell and leaving the part that hangs over the cab unsupported. I won't put anything heavy on that part, just wanted the lights to be more effective. Maby put a foot in the center of the front bar. I'd think a weight limit of 180-200lbs lbs on top would be reasonable. I'm hoping that will be enough to support what you see in the photo + a hilift jack and maby a 13 foot kayak (50lbs). The frame for the bar will be mainly 1 1/2 OD x 1.50 wall(i think thats right) steel bars. I'm hoping the rack will weigh less than 60 lbs. The wiring for the lighting can go through the tubing which will act as a conduit. Let me know what you think,

 

I used one of thoes erasor wheels also and it was still slow going. I alternated between berthe two methods. They both take a long time.

 

anyone know what the max weight limit of a fiberglass leer shell is?

 

personally i wouldnt screw with the shell, it just wasnt designed to support weight like that.... however, your ide4a about the rack seems to be ok... like a ladder rack basically with a basket on it... the overhead part of our worktruck ladderrack that stems off the flatbed on a fullsize chevy is plenty strong and not connected to the cab at all.....

 

The Leer shell on my budddy's F350 was strong enough to support the two of us walking on it (125 + 165lbs), plus the weight of a yakima rack with 4 kayaks. I say no problem.

With wide enough "feet", I doubt you'd break through.

 

I wouldn't mount that rack to the shell and the cab b/c the bed usually flexes different from the cab on a pickup. You might rip the bolts out. Most of those shells are pretty strong, so I believe the shell mount would be enough.

 

Thanks for the advice. I can't wait to finish the rack. Theres alway more to do though... 4.88 gearing, Ox locker, winch, the list goes on and credit card company get happier.

 

Here's my best advice: credit cards are evil, save your money until you can pay cash. I've been the credit card route when I was in college and I won't go back to that.

 

Ah yea, definately good advice, I payed for the truck in cash and only now have I been using my CC. I've actually got a seperate savings account for my truck.

Debt scares the hell out of me.

 

That's good you hate debt, it's the bane of most Americans

 

Debt sucks. Took me about 7 years to pay off my credit cards from my younger years. Never again.

Just another tip for anyone using the eraser to remove graphics.... the trick is to keep the rpms down on the tool. If you rev up your grinder, drill, whatever, you'll only end up heating the adhesive and making it more difficult to remove. Keep the rpms down, don't concentrate on one spot too long if the adhesive starts to get hot. Works great with a little practice.

-Wrench

 

As for removing the graphics, my cleacoat is peeling and the on left side of the truck the paint color is faded. I'm afraid of removing the decals because the paint would make it show. I'm thinking an Earl Sheib Pearl package paint job. I know it's pretty cheap, but I don't want to spend more than $800.