95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners
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anyone have sound system in the 4runner?

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Old 03-31-2009 | 06:42 AM
  #161  
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Where can you pick up 0/1 ga wire? I had a hard enough time finding 4 ga (when I really didnt need it I found out after buying... ugh), and trying to find fittings for 4 ga, only 2 places in town sell a fitting, but would of had to cut the end to make the C shape...
We might have 1 place here..... but who sells it if they dont?
Old 03-31-2009 | 06:53 AM
  #162  
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From: Where it always works if you work it, in Sunny Selinsgrove, PA
Originally Posted by Gokumono
Where can you pick up 0/1 ga wire? I had a hard enough time finding 4 ga (when I really didnt need it I found out after buying... ugh), and trying to find fittings for 4 ga, only 2 places in town sell a fitting, but would of had to cut the end to make the C shape...
We might have 1 place here..... but who sells it if they dont?
any electrical supplier (for building houses or businesses) has that size wire in stock. grant it, it won't be bright red or blue see-through insulation on the wire, but its a lot cheaper. They will also carry terminations and fittings for the wire.

Edit: Get insulation type THHN or equivalent if you go this route. Also, specify copper, not aluminum wire. Be sure to ask them if the fittings they have are copper safe.

Last edited by bigtrucknwheels; 03-31-2009 at 06:55 AM.
Old 03-31-2009 | 08:08 AM
  #163  
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From: Yotatech, because Pirate is too expensive. NorCal.
Originally Posted by bigtrucknwheels
any electrical supplier (for building houses or businesses) has that size wire in stock. grant it, it won't be bright red or blue see-through insulation on the wire, but its a lot cheaper. They will also carry terminations and fittings for the wire.

Edit: Get insulation type THHN or equivalent if you go this route. Also, specify copper, not aluminum wire. Be sure to ask them if the fittings they have are copper safe.
house wire sucks. Its really hard and doesnt bend. Car audio wire bends very easy you can flip it araund like a whip. I have never had a problem finding my wire. Just go to any car audio store. They should have a shelf thing with rolls of different size. Sell it by the foot. If not they might have it in the back, just walk in and tell them you need 0ga. if they dont have it they will know where to get it.
Old 03-31-2009 | 11:31 AM
  #164  
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From: Where it always works if you work it, in Sunny Selinsgrove, PA
Originally Posted by toylocost
house wire sucks. Its really hard and doesnt bend. Car audio wire bends very easy you can flip it araund like a whip. I have never had a problem finding my wire. Just go to any car audio store. They should have a shelf thing with rolls of different size. Sell it by the foot. If not they might have it in the back, just walk in and tell them you need 0ga. if they dont have it they will know where to get it.
stranded wire flexes... good luck finding any electrical supplier with solid 1 or 0g wire...
Old 03-31-2009 | 02:09 PM
  #165  
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From: Yotatech, because Pirate is too expensive. NorCal.
Originally Posted by bigtrucknwheels
stranded wire flexes... good luck finding any electrical supplier with solid 1 or 0g wire...
i have stranded house wire in my 82. it sucks too. if you took a foot of it and smacked your brother in the head with it he would get a big briuse. (i know this for a fact) imo nothing compares to good car audio cable. get what you pay for.
Old 04-01-2009 | 02:18 AM
  #166  
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chea, what toylocost said... go to any car audio store and ask them if they have 0 gauage wire. electrical supplier wires are more resistance becuase of less stranded wires than car audio wires. car audio have low resistance which is nice. stay away from electrical supplier stuff...

or get some 0 gauge from www.woofersetc.com. look up Stinger and American Accessories. I've ordered some items from there. It's legit.
Old 04-01-2009 | 02:35 AM
  #167  
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Originally Posted by SLYTLYSCRAMBLED
Same stock alt, Rockford Fosgate T10001bd amp per pair, I have a cap but have to lose it and get Kenitic battery.... Just might for now use the 1 T10001bd amp I got, and wire it for 2 ohms stable and hook all 4 subs to it(750 watts) ... But still want to cover the box with sumfin Still don't know what to freakin do!! LOL!!

Oh and Chea 4rx... The 4 guage upgrade is what every1 calls THE BIG 3... It helps a whole lot!! I also still need to get holes for wires but What I want to do is just use a small bolt or all thread and drill a hole in box for that, and then use washers and nuts to hold it together on box. Then use the crimps with holes to connect wires to all thread... Did that make any sense?? LOL
uhh...that didn't make any sense to me lol i drill 4 holes on the left side and the other 4 hole on the right side for the speakers wire and put some glue to keep it sealed.
Old 04-01-2009 | 08:23 AM
  #168  
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From: Where it always works if you work it, in Sunny Selinsgrove, PA
Originally Posted by 4rx
electrical supplier wires are more resistance because of less stranded wires than car audio wires. car audio have low resistance which is nice. stay away from electrical supplier stuff...
Wrong. The more strands, the higher the resistance. Evidence of this can be found in the National Electrical Code, in many places. Also, building wire is about as low of a resistance as feasibly possible, due to power dissappation (I^2R losses) and voltage drop because of wire resistance. Imagine if every building had lots of resistance in the wiring, how much power would be wasted and the subsequent problems from low voltages. This is why building wire has less strands than car audio wire. If it were lower resistance, we would surely use it, for the reasons mentioned above, and as you mentioned, the flexibility. Trust me, it is in the best interest of the manufacturers to make the wire as low of a resistance as possible. I believe UL has guidelines for this, and the NEC certainly does. And on a side note, we prefer to use solid grounding conductors whenever feasible, as it provides the lowest resistance, therefore the best path to clear a fault.

Not trying to sound like a smarty pants, but trust me on this, I am an electrical engineering student, and this is something I learned in my first semester of classes. I am now half way through haha. I will agree absolutely that building wire is not as flexible. That being said, I still think you would be able to bend it however you would need it to be bent to wire up everything, it will just be a little bit harder. It will, regardless of how you look at it, save you money. That being said, I try to do everything as feasibly cheap as possible, and I see that as a 20 dollar or more savings.

And, just bear this advice in mind, NEVER EVER pay more money for "oxygen free" wire. There is no such thing (as soon as you strip the insulation, the wire is oxidized, and no car audio wire is completely air tight throughout the whole wire). All that and besides, copper oxide is very conductive...
Old 04-01-2009 | 09:03 AM
  #169  
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From: Yotatech, because Pirate is too expensive. NorCal.
Originally Posted by bigtrucknwheels
Wrong. The more strands, the higher the resistance. Evidence of this can be found in the National Electrical Code, in many places. Also, building wire is about as low of a resistance as feasibly possible, due to power dissappation (I^2R losses) and voltage drop because of wire resistance. Imagine if every building had lots of resistance in the wiring, how much power would be wasted and the subsequent problems from low voltages. This is why building wire has less strands than car audio wire. If it were lower resistance, we would surely use it, for the reasons mentioned above, and as you mentioned, the flexibility. Trust me, it is in the best interest of the manufacturers to make the wire as low of a resistance as possible. I believe UL has guidelines for this, and the NEC certainly does. And on a side note, we prefer to use solid grounding conductors whenever feasible, as it provides the lowest resistance, therefore the best path to clear a fault.

Not trying to sound like a smarty pants, but trust me on this, I am an electrical engineering student, and this is something I learned in my first semester of classes. I am now half way through haha. I will agree absolutely that building wire is not as flexible. That being said, I still think you would be able to bend it however you would need it to be bent to wire up everything, it will just be a little bit harder. It will, regardless of how you look at it, save you money. That being said, I try to do everything as feasibly cheap as possible, and I see that as a 20 dollar or more savings.

And, just bear this advice in mind, NEVER EVER pay more money for "oxygen free" wire. There is no such thing (as soon as you strip the insulation, the wire is oxidized, and no car audio wire is completely air tight throughout the whole wire). All that and besides, copper oxide is very conductive...
Not trying to agrue with you but if fewer strands is less resistance then why dont car audio manufactures make their wire that way? Because it looks good and feels good and sells good? What type of wire do the national champions use in their car? They use the best car audio stuff they can get. Why dont they use house wire if its better?
Old 04-01-2009 | 09:49 AM
  #170  
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From: Where it always works if you work it, in Sunny Selinsgrove, PA
Originally Posted by toylocost
Not trying to agrue with you but if fewer strands is less resistance then why dont car audio manufactures make their wire that way? Because it looks good and feels good and sells good? What type of wire do the national champions use in their car? They use the best car audio stuff they can get. Why dont they use house wire if its better?
"Because it looks good and feels good and sells good?" Precisely! The differences in performance from building wire to audio wire, at least in a car audio system are negligible.

They go with "the best" because they are probably sponsored, and because car audio wire is cosmetically pleasing, whereas building wire is black and nothing special at all to look at. Not to mention, not near as flexible. They might also use a special wire that has more conductive materials (as in not copper, or some alloy of copper that is higher in conduction). Those kind of wires merely cut down on the size of wire needed though, and that is probably not even the case.

Remember, we are talking power delivery, not sound quality, so as long as there are enough electrons in the wire to sufficiently deliver power to the amp with negligible voltage drop, there will be no difference in the quality of the sound.
Old 04-01-2009 | 10:41 AM
  #171  
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From: Yotatech, because Pirate is too expensive. NorCal.
Ok. You've got me sold on the building wire. Still wont be using it though cuz car wire is so much easier to work with. lol
Old 04-01-2009 | 11:10 AM
  #172  
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From: Where it always works if you work it, in Sunny Selinsgrove, PA
Originally Posted by toylocost
Ok. You've got me sold on the building wire. Still wont be using it though cuz car wire is so much easier to work with. lol
every time I see your sig, I wonder what that lotus is all about. any details?
Old 04-01-2009 | 12:15 PM
  #173  
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From: Yotatech, because Pirate is too expensive. NorCal.
Originally Posted by bigtrucknwheels
every time I see your sig, I wonder what that lotus is all about. any details?
Well if you click on the green word you can see some pics of what they look like. Mine should be similar to this one exept I want silver with blue stripes...


I'm not too far, kinda stuck on figuring out what I want to do with the suspension. When I get a few days to be alone and pour over some books I will figure that out. Its going to be fully independent, I'm using a diff out of a Supra of the same year as the Celica its 4.3:1 LSD. After the suspention is together and its a rolling chassis I will fit the engine and trans and start on the cooling system and eletrical. Maybe a turbo and intercooler down the road? idk yet mostly depends on money. Hope to be driving sometime in 2010-11.

Here is my build log if you want to see...
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=4060


EDIT: wow that was extremely off topic lol

Last edited by toylocost; 04-01-2009 at 12:17 PM.
Old 04-01-2009 | 07:13 PM
  #174  
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Sorry peeps!!! Been hiding there... Chea, let me catch up on things... Ummm, 4rx, I want to use bolts for connections so I won't have to cut wires or pull them thru box when I add another amp..(ganna run all 4 on 1 amp for now @ 2 ohms) Also, Im just throwing out my opinion, but 120 volts and 12 volts are entirely different 2 me... If i sound like an idiot Oh well.. Im good at doing that sometimes!! Ac, dc. And with more strands, it is waaaaaay easier to work with then one solid wire. I do agree about the less oxygen wire... Seriously, Where can oxygen not go unless its in a vacuumed room??? LMAO!!! And I think the lotus will be ok to talk about if you sd u used toyota parts and throw a cpl of speakers on roll cage!! Oh and hers a pic of the box covered in carpet and a test run for the rockford logo...!! Oh and i noticed the "CHEA"! LOL!!!
Attached Thumbnails anyone have sound system in the 4runner?-image000.jpg   anyone have sound system in the 4runner?-image219.jpg  
Old 04-01-2009 | 09:16 PM
  #175  
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From: Where it always works if you work it, in Sunny Selinsgrove, PA
Originally Posted by SLYTLYSCRAMBLED
Also, Im just throwing out my opinion, but 120 volts and 12 volts are entirely different 2 me... If i sound like an idiot Oh well.. Im good at doing that sometimes!! Ac, dc. And with more strands, it is waaaaaay easier to work with then one solid wire. I do agree about the less oxygen wire... Seriously, Where can oxygen not go unless its in a vacuumed room??? LMAO!!!
case and point on the vacuumed room. And you are def. right, 120VAC is a lot different than 12VDC. That being noted, in DC, physical wire construction is not nearly as critical as in an AC setup. For more explanation on what I mean, research the skin effect. Because the wire construction is irrelevant in power delivery in DC circuits, any wire, size permitting, will work for the job. I meant stranded wire by the way, as getting a 0 or 1 AWG solid insulated conductor is nearly impossible, if at all. It'd be unrealistic to think one could even work with it haha. I simply meant that using the less desirable stranded building wire could save you a little money haha.
Old 04-02-2009 | 10:29 PM
  #176  
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I've got a alpine 9884 deck, 6 1/2" front and 4" rear Infinity referances. PDX 1.600 pushing my JL10"w7. PowerCap all 4gauge wiring. does anyone know what the real size of that rear speaker is? cause my 4inchers definitely have tons of space left.
Old 04-03-2009 | 10:14 AM
  #177  
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I havent gone through every post in here but as anyone built a custom sub box that goes inside the rear trim panels?. I have seen one person here put a sub on the drivers side behind the wheel well where the vents are in the panel. I have a 8" sub here thats looking for a home.
Old 04-03-2009 | 03:38 PM
  #178  
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Originally Posted by GoHideTheAsian
I've got a alpine 9884 deck, 6 1/2" front and 4" rear Infinity referances. PDX 1.600 pushing my JL10"w7. PowerCap all 4gauge wiring. does anyone know what the real size of that rear speaker is? cause my 4inchers definitely have tons of space left.
Rear speakers in my Toyota are 5 1/4. I have a 2000 sr5 4runner.
Old 04-03-2009 | 04:28 PM
  #179  
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From: Yotatech, because Pirate is too expensive. NorCal.
Originally Posted by BIC performance
I havent gone through every post in here but as anyone built a custom sub box that goes inside the rear trim panels?. I have seen one person here put a sub on the drivers side behind the wheel well where the vents are in the panel. I have a 8" sub here thats looking for a home.
This guy has...

https://www.yotatech.com/members/19978.html

A 12" on each side I think.
Old 04-03-2009 | 04:46 PM
  #180  
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here is my old sub. IDMAX 12 d2v2
_DSC0007_3028.jpg?t=1238805887
I am in the process of changing my 4cuft ported to a 1.6 sealed


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