YotaBoy.... Man.... Thats so crappy. Im sorry to hear that dude. I would prob kill someone if my stuff got jacked on christmas... Id be like Ho Ho Ho shot. Lol

But yea. I really like the amp you just got dude. I need a New amp really bad. But taxes are coming in and thats like 500 more dollars twords a huge Compatition amp. Im gonna run 2 strips of double zero from the dual alternators to the 2 yellow tops in the rear and then running to 8 caps and then to 2 5kwatt RMS amps. All MTX. Can anyone hear the makings of a sponsorship haha. Its already been talked over with some reps and Were gonna have a official meeting on it soon. But yea.. That will be in a while when I can get everything perfect for it. But I do have a new project that im going to be posting in here soon. Its a 88 CRX that Im doing a wall in and Its gonna be pretty damn loud lol. Im going for over 160dB.

 

yotaboy - i no wat u mean dude, i got all my stuff jacked on my birthday (way more than just amp and subs) but ya i have since replaced it and well im loving the new steup.

bvet4dog - there are so many different setups/combos u can get with subs and amp. it really all depends on wat ur looking for and wat ur willing to spend. It is also a factor if u wanna buy ONLY new items or ur willing to buy some used ones... New guarantees ull have a setup that works great but ur paying for that also while used gets u better items for a more affordable price... all personal preference for an entire system too.

 

hahahahahahahaha! omg thats hilarious.

 

This is my head unit, it was stolen when I didn't have a battery in my truck and my alarm was off, just bought a hatch off CL for the rear glass for 160$ and a driver side fender, and a new grille from the same guy. He also gave me the custom tool he made to get the crank pully off. Good deal for 160$



This is the head unit I wanna replace it with.
Clarion VX409

Here are my amps, I have two alpine pdx amps pushing 1000watts, one for each w7, and one 700watt 4channel pdx for my door speakers and tweeters. The crossovers are under my driver seat, I don't have a pic.



And the 12" jl audio w7's, these things hurt my ears.
I love my system, I can crank it and it's crystal clear, no distortion from my door speakers/tweats and none from my subs.



The box is custom, you can see the w7 mark on the top kinda, these are cell phone pics, sorry.



And a pic of the two loves of my life,



The bike is a 2001 Yamaha r1, the paint is custom, a flat black base coat with semi-gloss and gloss black camo pattern. Unfortunately it was stolen from me as well, I left it out side one night I was tired and didn't lock it up.

Oh, I forgot model numbers, but in my doors are jl audio 6 and 1/2 speakers, and the tweeters are jl audio.

 

Lol I know. That is all in the long run though. And that is If i can pull off the sponsorship. If not then back to the old plain 4runner. Just gonna keep adding things to make it louder. Tuesday im picking up a battery for the rear and i need to purchase one of those splitter things for it. Also I am saving up to get a red top for under the hood. So hopefully BL and new battery and Amp will be installed soon.

Just gotta get the money.

To Prorunner - Nice set up dude. I like the box and love the crotch rocket. I hopefully will be getting a 1000 CBR here soon. But nice toy's dude haha.

 

Better off with a Yellow Top, honestly... Its a deep cycle battery, which is what you want for continuous high current pulls from the battery. It will hold up much better than the red top, honest!

Look at the application guide on their website: http://www.optimabatteries.com/optim...wtop/index.php

I run a yellow top in my vehicle, and I love it. It handles the current very well, and doesn't allow much dimming. Unlike my previous battery, I am not noticing a decrease in performance over time from the spontaneous high current draws.


To the man with the W7's, flippin' sweet man!

 

Now Big. One normal sircumstances this would be true. But I am running the subs off the secondary battery. Which is a yellow top. The red is for the power to flow through first before it hits the yellow top. So the redtop has the high amps to handle all the power. While the yellow drains and recharges from the subs. Thank you for the input on the matter though. But you are correct. A yellow would be better but not for the main battery. Thanks though

 

@ 4runnerteen. Start reading here...
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/boa...ex.php?act=idx

Lots to learn. First of all being that caps are useless.

And the big boys that have been doing this for years have trouble getting 160. Its not gonna happen without a lot of money and a car that isn't a daily driver.

 

Large capacitors are useless, but start adding more smaller caps to increase capacity, and your RC time constant goes down (amount of time to charge the capacitor). You are absolutely correct though, big caps are pointless, they don't have enough time to recharge between every hit. In fact, they can exaggerate a voltage drop problem, as a fully uncharged capacitor acts as a dead short, and a partially charged capacitor acts as some sort of load on the circuit, so as long as the cap isn't fully charged, it will draw amps as well...

 

Toylo. You are very correct. Im not saying anything against that. I was talking about my CRX. I'm working on putting a wall back there and several batteries and alot of power. Lol Not my truck. So I'm wanting to have a SPL car. But that will be a while till I get it loud enough for that.

And Bigtruck - Thanks for the little insight in that. I had the idea considering Caps act as a battery but when they are a large cell they charge to much so they cant charge enough fast enough. Just a hunch I had but Im glad im not the only one with crazy notions haha.

 

Whens the last time you saw ANY cap in a serious SPL setup? (at a comp not at high school)

Just saying. Nobody uses them. They use 10 power cells and quad HO alts.

 

Toylo I understand on that statement also.
Its just those guys have alot of money and can afford to have 10 batterys and huge alts. For me since the caps are 40 bucks and Im getting a extra battery for free, Im happy at the moment lol

 

oh yeah, thats def the route to go man, no doubt. I am speaking purely in hypothetical terms lol. as we call it at college "an ideal circuit". You could load up some serious power in a capacitor bank of smaller caps. practical: no, doable on paper: yes hahaha

 

hey guys I destroyed my subs almost 2 months ago so I ordered 2 diamond d3's 15'a they they are the 2010 model still in the box and plastic but what happened is it was taking to long for them to get here so I convinced my girl friend to buy me a 15in. memphis woofer so now i am trying to sell the diamonds. I can sell one for $150 or both with the box for $350 and i can take pictures of it all if yall want to see them.

 

WOW!!! Chea, I'm still alive... Hey there all yota peeps.. It's been a while. Just wanted to inform that I did add the other rockford fosgate t1000bd amp.CHEA, it makes a world of difference and I have to agree... A cap does suck, and a reg battery does suck, and a oem alt does suck, for 4 amps thats shooting out 2600 watts!!! LMAO!! I think I can see better at night with my lights off than having them on n hitting a low note!!! Saving up for a yellow top under the hood and a stinger batt for the back.. Wuld put in 2 yellow tops, but have no room in the back, so gotta go small...Oh, and ganna beef up the alt also... I took it to go get an oil change and made a lil noise in their shop... It vibrated not only the whole building... but you culd feel the ground shake!!! FREAKIN SWEET!! Gotta love them old hx2s!!

 

Lol nice. Good to hear from you again. Yea Im saving for the red top. But i decided im getting 2 H/O alts and im gonna run a dual battery up front with a regulator for my truck and all my Fog lamps. And then for the other alt im gonna run 3 good spl batteries in the back. Im using those caps in my other cars just to stiffen the sound a little with the smaller subs in my other dd's.

So new project is building a dual alt support that wont interfere with dual batteries under the hood also. Haha what a project right lol.

But cant wait to see your setup dude. With all 4 of those 15's for cone space. Thats gonna sound beautiful. Hopefully Ill be getting 2 new amps also. To power each sub. I was looking at Sundown. They have a couple good Class D amps. But im thinking I might have to drive down there some time for a Competition just to see that truck haha.

But I did get a shot at a term lab the other day. And at my amps max and running everything at its peak that I can do now. I was only pulling a 152.8 on the termlab. I just need a new amp and I can really get some good excursion. Hopefully ill break 155 haha. But def need a new alt. Mines about to stop working lol

 

Hey guys I have a 2000 limited 4runner with factory stereo. I'm wanting to upgrade my headunit and did some searching and found a couple writeups but they all show a 3rd gen with the older dash set-up. Mine has the digital climate control and all that fun stuff. Does anyone know if there is a write-up for taking the stock head unit out on a set-up like mine or is it roughly the same with a couple differences? I have alil experience from my past vehicles as far as taking out the stock stuff but mine is in pristine condition and I like having a step by step on how to take it out.

 

Yours is the exact same as mine. Yours is a limited and a 00 which is the only difference from mine. One year and the model. If you follow any of the other write ups you'll be fine. If not PM me any questions you have and ill get back to you as soon as I can.

Thanks,
- Mark

P.S. Im prob going to do a full write up soon on installing a full sound system. From HU, to Subs and a SPL box lol.

 

Ok thanks man I just needed verification that it was pretty much the same I just didn't want to break anything.

 

well here is my system not complete yet but looking for 2 10 or 2 12 as speakin of rite now. here is my 5 channel amp this thing is to heavy to mount on to the back seat

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