Anyone else breaking CVs with Toytech OME 3" Lift
05-13-2008 | 09:50 AM
#21
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From: Albuquerque, NM
You nailed it...SS did his homework. His kit works. The latest SS kit doesn't use a topout at all. A 3/4" topout will cause too much droop, end of story.
05-13-2008 | 10:01 AM
#22
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From: Austin Texas
Yes he did do his homework--wish i had waited for his bumper sale though--Doohhhh!!
05-13-2008 | 10:29 AM
#23
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From: Pleasant Grove, Utah
Maybe you can use thicker upper bump stops or spacers on the bump stops to limit the CV angles. That way you keep the lift but limit the droop. I think if you have lockers droop is over-rated anyway. I am just about at full droop sitting flat on the ground. Its a sacrafice I made to help with CV life.
Just for clarification, do 3rd gens have bump stops that limit droop? I thought that was the whole flaw that prevents us from going over 3" for any reason (without a bracket lift), as well as avoiding too-long front shocks. Thanks, and sorry for the mini-hijack
05-13-2008 | 10:41 AM
#25
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From: Albuquerque, NM
The topout extends the length of the shock, whereas an adjustable shock only moves the spring up within the same length...does that make sense?
05-13-2008 | 10:43 AM
#26
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From: Oklahoma State
Maybe that's the problem. My upper control arm doesn't have them, but its not factory and came with limit straps.
05-13-2008 | 12:44 PM
#27
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From: San Diego, CA
Yes, that makes sense. More or less, it moves the available travel downward as opposed to streching out the spring with adjustable shocks.
05-13-2008 | 05:35 PM
#28
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From: Tempe, Arizona
05-13-2008 | 06:00 PM
#29
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From: Oklahoma State
Nice limit straps Steve:
http://www.sonoransteel.com/Front_Strap_Installed.jpg
http://www.sonoransteel.com/Front_Strap_Installed.jpg
05-13-2008 | 09:39 PM
#31
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From: Ashburn, VA
I know you didn't take pictures of your rig on the trail when it happened, but did you by chance take any pictures of the broken cv? I'm running the same OME setup as you (for a little over six months), and want to look for warning signs.... Is the pop sound something you will distinctively hear? Also, how much is it to replace a cv? I thought the front diff drop we both have was supposed to prevent cv damage when doing moderate off roading.
05-13-2008 | 09:47 PM
#32
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From: Albuquerque, NM
Yes...usually a click, click, ckick, snap (outer) or just a loud snap (shaft).
About $200 for a new after market Half Shaft (Approx. $90 core charge) A a Toyota half shaft is much more expensive.
It can't prevent damage. It does change the angles slightly, IMO it helps mainly with wear on the boots.
About $200 for a new after market Half Shaft (Approx. $90 core charge) A a Toyota half shaft is much more expensive.
It can't prevent damage. It does change the angles slightly, IMO it helps mainly with wear on the boots.
05-13-2008 | 09:51 PM
#33
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From: Tempe, Arizona
As long as you stay on the road, you will not have any problems. If your front shock is too long and it is a very small bit longer that will do it, the CV's will bind and rip the cage out. You did not brake an axle you ripped the cage out from binding. This will only happen if you really go off-road and flex the truck out. With a front shock that is too long.
Also there is another side to the coin, the 3.4 hs enough power to break axles, but in that case you will know it as you will have your ARB front locker engage and spinning all 4 tires at once. This will be obvious, the shock to long does not take much, it is easy to do.
Also we tested our kits in Pritchett Canyon in Moab. They survived, that is the ultimate in testing for these 3rd gens. Also we ran an FJC through there with the lower links, only 2 FJ have run that trail as of that date in 2007.
Also there is another side to the coin, the 3.4 hs enough power to break axles, but in that case you will know it as you will have your ARB front locker engage and spinning all 4 tires at once. This will be obvious, the shock to long does not take much, it is easy to do.
Also we tested our kits in Pritchett Canyon in Moab. They survived, that is the ultimate in testing for these 3rd gens. Also we ran an FJC through there with the lower links, only 2 FJ have run that trail as of that date in 2007.
05-14-2008 | 06:06 AM
#34
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From: Tulsa
05-14-2008 | 07:24 AM
#35
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From: Austin Texas
Schaefer--i always tell people that ask about my truck what setup I have and give them your info--but alas they cheap out and get what they pay for
05-14-2008 | 07:56 AM
#36
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From: Ashburn, VA
05-14-2008 | 02:01 PM
#37
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From: Christiansburg, VA
The first broke CV
This break was on the joint closer to the diff.
I was able to drive the truck back both times. The first time I was in a tough spot managed to cause this damage as well.
My Advanced Auto CV's looked Identical to the OEM CVs, but the parts that are breaking are covered entirely by the rubber boot.
Earlier in the day.
This break was on the joint closer to the diff.
I was able to drive the truck back both times. The first time I was in a tough spot managed to cause this damage as well.
My Advanced Auto CV's looked Identical to the OEM CVs, but the parts that are breaking are covered entirely by the rubber boot.
Earlier in the day.
05-14-2008 | 02:12 PM
#38
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From: Tempe, Arizona
Broken cage from binding. You did not break the alxe, you popped the cage out and it cracked in half. The shell and the star are in perfect condition.
Yes it is broken, but technically you did not break the axle, you ripped the cage out.
Yes it is broken, but technically you did not break the axle, you ripped the cage out.
05-14-2008 | 02:37 PM
#40
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From: Thornton, CO.
That looks like the classic "grease leaking out of the cv boot after a lift" problem that many, many people have experienced and easily fixed...
one of many threads on the subject
John
one of many threads on the subject
John
