anyone buy their 4 runner at 140,000 miles?
#21
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Change that timing belt and waterpump if it hasn't been done yet. Also change the transmission and differential fluid. at 140K its just barely been broken in if its been maintained well. Toyotas last a long time.
#22
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I have a 99 4Runner SR5 V6 with the auto and I just bought it with 135,000 miles on it. I didn't worry about the milage at all as I know that Toyotas are the most reliable vehicles on the road today. Also, i've been getting 21-23 MPG.
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All I can recommend on the rust is to sand it down, put Naval Jelly on it to remove the rest, paint it with primer, then a good rustproofing paint on it. Will take some work, but should protect you for some years. A lot of the guys here repaint the underside of their rigs.
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Originally Posted by DavidA
All I can recommend on the rust is to sand it down, put Naval Jelly on it to remove the rest, paint it with primer, then a good rustproofing paint on it. Will take some work, but should protect you for some years. A lot of the guys here repaint the underside of their rigs.
#27
Originally Posted by TinyTruck
After you do this have the underside oiled, my stepdad does this to all the vehicals and as a testament to how it works his 79 chebby has 0 rust underneath and it gets driven off and on year round.
As for taking the running boards off completely, that would be tough as it is my wife's daily driver. We bought it for that as she has a 2 mile commute to work only and we wanted something to drive on the weekends to outdoor mtn. biking trails etc...my daily driver is a 3 series bmw which I drive only for work, and always wish I could be driving a truck! That is a whole nother story for another time.
#28
Originally Posted by 96~SR5
I bought my 96 two years ago with 118K miles for $8900. Nothing major has gone wrong. I have replaced the starter , plugs , and front brakes so far. All with the help of the tech write ups from this site. I also put nothing but full synthetic oil in , and do changes every 3 - 4 K miles. Mine is also a 4x4 auto and gets about 17 mpg. I now have 159,000 miles and she runs like new.
As far as I know up to now (140k miles) it has been run with standard oil. I have heard horror stories about switching from standard to synthetic and on the other hand heard it is absolutely no big deal. My question is: Is it ok to swittch to synth this high of mileage? If so, can I just drain the standard oil out and re-fill with synth? Anything other than that I would probably have a shop do, any idea the cost a shop would charge to do that on top of the oil change (i.e. if the system has to be flushed of the standard oil first)
thanks guys (and gals?)
#30
Originally Posted by yotaman
I personally would not switch from dino oil to synthetic oil with a 140,000 mile vehicle.
I had a feeling that would not be a good idea, but am not quite sure why...I guess I kinda have the "not broke dont fix it" mentality when it comes to switching
#31
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i've used regular oil or a blend and it has done fine for me. No leaks and always still nice and golden brown after the 3000 mile mark.
I bought my 4r with 115k miles 2 years ago and it's been amazing to me. I've really only had to do regular maintenence on it such as fluid changes, brakes, u-joints. The only major repair was the power steering rack at 170k which i was able to do myself and i replaced the tie-rods at the same time. I now have 176k and it's running great.
I bought my 4r with 115k miles 2 years ago and it's been amazing to me. I've really only had to do regular maintenence on it such as fluid changes, brakes, u-joints. The only major repair was the power steering rack at 170k which i was able to do myself and i replaced the tie-rods at the same time. I now have 176k and it's running great.
#32
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You have a vehicle that has gaskets that have been there with dino oil for 140k....then you switch to a synthetic oil which has a smaller molcule structure and all the sudden those gaps that the dino oil molecules could not fit through are huge to the synthetic ones...and they start to slip through, thus the leaks that are common in switches on older vehicles.
Stay with dino to ensure you don't have that problem. If it were lower mileage then I would do it. Not a big deal, say with the tried and true.
Stay with dino to ensure you don't have that problem. If it were lower mileage then I would do it. Not a big deal, say with the tried and true.
#33
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Oil the under side of the body? I've never heard of that. It sounds like a sure fire formula for a vehicle fire here in AZ, though. We're paranoid about fluid leaks -- especially fluids that are flamable like any kind of "oil" would be. Nothing sadder than driving by a car-BQ on the north bound I-17 in the middle of summer.
Ed
Ed
#35
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Just to clarify my post about the oil. I did not switch to synthetic at high mileage. The guy I bought the truck from did it early on in it's life. I know I cannot go back to dino oil now.
#36
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You can always go back to Dino oil. It is just that when going the other way that there is a slight chance that fissures, openings, whatever, that the smaller (better protecting because it can get into more of the engine surfaces) synthetic oil might find a way out where the older oil structure could not. It is a slight chance in older gaskets. Just my 2 cents.
You can go back to dino without that issue, from synthetic.
You can go back to dino without that issue, from synthetic.
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