I have 190k on my 1996 4runner. I dont ever remember chaning the diff fluid on it. Would it be wise to change over to synthetic at this point? and if so, is there anything i need to do differently when changing to synthetic?

Matt

 

changing to synthetic is always a good thing... unless you have a leaky diff currently, there is no problems and you will be fine....

 

I cant get the diff drain bolt off. I dont have a 24mm combo wrench.

 

i checked the rear diff and it seems that its not leaking. i think the pinion seal is leaking? thats what a buddy of mine told me i checked my extended diff breather and everything was fine. any ideas on why its leaking?

thanks

Matt

 

go buy a 24mm socket, its pretty hard to get a boxed or open ended wrench on the drain bolt because of the guard, if your in a pinch, a 15/16" socket will work

 

you may be OK going to synthetic, when i changed to synthetic in my diffs, the rear pinion seal seeped for awhile, but currently has stopped, its hard to tell what your leak may do

 

i guess theres only one way to find out! from what ive heard, it isnt that expensive to get the pinion seal replaced. Thanks

Matt

 

I have a 24mm socket apparently i cant put enough torque and im kinda stripping the drain bolt. Im scared of stripping it anymore. So im going to look for a combo wrench.

 

try heating it up wti ha torch or try shooting it with pb blaster.... both would probably help.. if you are jsut rounding off the head, you are getting enough torque, more than the head will allow....

 

Im going to grab some pb blaster. Cuz it seems wd40 aint doing its job.

 

if you have a 15/16th inch socket try that, its a bit smaller than a 24mm and is less likely to strip it.

 

seriously wd40 sucks... pb blaster is much better.... wd40 is mroe of a solvent than a real penetrant

 

you need a 6 point. trust me, every time i try to break one of these 25 year old drain/fill plugs, they strip. stupid design, there's no meat to grab onto.

if you strip one badly, the best way to go is get a chisel and a hammer and try to break it loose that way. after that, upgrade to the plugs that take an allen wrench rather than a socket...i can't remember the part # off the top of my head

 

From Marlin Crawler

Low Profile Magnetic Drain Plugs
These factory replacement drain plugs feature a built in magnet to help remove metal filings that accumulate during normal use. The much smaller, round head design reduces chances of rocks grabbing edges and loosening plugs while on the trail. Requires 10mm Allen socket to install or remove. Low Profile Magnetic Drain Plugs $4 (each)

 

Hit the drain plug with a hammer (like you were trying to drive it in to the rearend housing) Don't get crazy just strike it sharply that should free up the plug

 

also i agree about the 6 point socket.....

 

dont forget to change the crush washers while youre at it. they are cheap and will ensure a good seal, torque to spec and you are good to go. jim, those allen head plugs are a great idea, im going to find some to replace on mine.

lee

 

it was kyle 22r's idea... in his post just above mine... however it was me who remebered where i saw them