Im gonna hijack this thread so I dont have to
create another with sorta the same topic, chances
are it wont get read, but I'm gonna give it a try

So after following this thread at work, I wondered just how much louder it makes it... but I have no way of knowing without doing it... I am currently in a house on a lake connected to Lake Michigan, so its got a few marine oriented stores. and im pretty impatient, so i wanted to do it now or close to never....

hold your breath, here it is: I decided to do the deckplate and a super-cheap way of the ISR AT THE SAME TIME, woohooooooooo. The deckplate went pretty easy, jammed it in a hole in the airbox, with a bit of silicone sealant, yay rotozip bits in a dremel. The ISR is where i seriously cut corners, feel free to let me know if you think this may fail catastrophically. There seem to be no shops around here that I can get muffler pipe expanded, so i just took out the resonator and covered the slit with a few large pieces of packaging tape, which continued to the ends and around under where the clamps will be so it cant peel off and go into my engine....

I may get this done better over the summer, since it would be nice to clear up the engine bay a bit, but.... maybe later

Results

I love that quote, and thats what made me want to do this right now

It feels like it has a ton more power, but, who knows that may just be cuz its a ton louder at WOT. Yes, I know it is a proven 6hp, but it sounds cool too . Approaching the highest RPM's the cabin gets a little too loud as the resonation seems to equalize with the cabin pressure... (haha way to technical for saying "it got loud")

Total Costs.
Deck Plate... 10.50 - - - - - - - I looked for a "deck pl8" too, but i couldnt find anythere... must be special order
1/4 in Tee and 1ft of 1/4 hose about two-dolla
Shop Supplies and Env Cleanup, lol.... well silicone and screws were laying around and cleanup of mad amount of rotozip static-cling plastic shreds since I cut out in the kitchen....

so what it comes down to, anyone think imsetting my self up for trouble with the tape?
What is that hose really for that connects to the resonator box? I havent rerouted it yet... maybe soon
AND, what are you guys paying for deckplates? just curious

 

Mine (4") was $14 local. Doing the ISR "right" wasn't hard at all and pretty cheap....at least I won't have to worry about tape eventually losing its 'stick' and sucking into the intake.
Now, I am a complete newb when it comes to this stuff...I understand the basics and can follow the great write-ups yotatech provides but that's about it so grain of salt, capiche?

 

I agree... I followed Atwinda's writeup on the ISR, and I am much happier knowing that tape isn't gonna destroy my engine.

I paid 8 bucks for my deckplate (6"). It pays to live near the river...

 

Well, yeah, people have done this - I mean, the original is all about plumbing end caps so it's not much of a stretch to cheapen it a bit further.

One thing though... Remember that you're at about 24-28inmg in the air tube, that's a decent bit of vacuum. If the tape rips, or even pinholes and starts to rip, you're gonna get unmetered air into the intake and the engine's gonna run like crap.

Before I got an Airaid tube, I ran the plumbing caps... one came loose and got sucked into the tube (happened to bamachem as well). Nothing catestrophic happened, but it took a while before I figured out why the engine wouldn't run.

Short form... keep an eye on it, and if things start running weird, look for pinholes or tears. And if you DO find a tear - you're high risk for something really bad getting sucked in.


umm, that one is probably pointed at the EVAP canister. There's another one that heads to the power steering pump but I think it connects just after the MAF.


I paid... $18 shipped for mine 3 years ago.

 

ok, thanks for the info mark.... one thing, I believe our intakes are different, and the method with the caps is for the 4runners before 99, but it goes to prove an example anyway. I should clarify the how a bit more, but i wasnt writing this as a guide for others, but in referecne to others who have done it. I took out the '99 resonator, covered the slit inside the tube with the tape, and put it all back on, for now there is about 8 layers of tape, and it is impossible for it to suck into the engine as it is clamped on. I didnt cut any of the resonator, so if it did rip or pinhole, the resonator would just function as it used too... the vacuum comment is one of the things I overlooked, and is what I was looking for by posting here, thank you.

I will end up doing this "right" as soon as I source a way to get/make 2.75 OD pipe, probably will end up being a drop of 1/8 wall aluminum... Im sure you all know allready why steel ie exhaust pipe is bad in the first place (the properties of the metal allow for greater chances of moisture buildup, aluminum is less likely to do this)

 

Ahh right... You've got the box thing like this:


There's babble here about that:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f130/intake-silencer-removal-mod-3rd-gen-4runner-2000-a-75168/

But then I'll bet that you know that.

 

ItZ DAt WHIstLE iT gO WHOO WHOOO!!!




not sure why that reminded me of that

 

haha.... whoo Whooooooo....

Mark - Yup, thats the thread I came across with the searches... but i suppose either way, tape is not a long-term solution.... for a toyota, I'm still used to my last dodge