So my 98 4runner has started being really difficult to turn over the last few days- sounds like the engine is cold frozen. It manages to just barely crank over and fire. yesterday for about 10 mins while i was driving the stereo cut out and interior lights would dim. to me that would signify an alternator checking out. but once driving, everything is ok, and for a couple hours after it is parked, it starts fine. the next morning however, it barely starts like the battery is dead or something.... any ideas before i go buy a new alternator and waste money?

 

Take it to an auto parts store and have them test the battery and alternator. You might also check it for parasitic loads

 

Take the alternator to have it checked before you go dropping money on a new one. It sounds like that's your problem since you said you lost power for a little bit while driving...the electronics basically feed off the alternator while the engine is running so if they lose power then it's most likely because of that.

How old is your battery? Have that checked too. It may not be holding a good charge and need to be replaced.

 

well, i had a load test done on the battery- it showed full charge and ˟˟˟˟˟ the bed on the test. so i bought a new battery. that was all fine and dandy for 3 or 4 days until tonight, the stereo cut out, dash gauges went down lights dimmed and misfiring. i spun around and tried to limp home, but any time i stepped on the gas, it just popped, and backfired like crazy not revving at all. i parked it and shut her down- tried the ignition and just clicking. Safe to say the alternator is toast now?

 

Sounds like it to me. Everything was working good for a while until it finally drained the battery. It wasn't being kept charged. I hope the misfiring is due to the low battery. It really sucks to fix a problem and then realize it was covering up another issue. I think a new alternator will take care of it all tho.

 

your battery failed and killed the alternator. Its actually kind of common.

If you're not getting full voltage the the ecu it can't power the injectors and spark therefor you get the miss and poor running.

 

if you can jump it to start it you can always put a volt meter on the battery to see what it's at while the truck is running, if it's not between 13.5-14.5V than the alternator isn't putting out the correct voltage. another quick easy test, that is if you can get it started, is to pull the negative terminal clamp off while it's running. if the alternator is working the truck will stay running because the electronics are going through the alternator, if the truck dies than that means it's running on the battery alone, as disconnecting the negative wire will discontinue the circuit and it will lose all electricity while it's disconnected. it could also just be a connection somewhere that is either lose or to corroded to get good connectivity.

 

use this method with caution as newer cars are full of sensitive electronics that could be damaged by this.

 

that's a good point, sorry I forgot to mention that, i'm used to my 91

 

You might want to look at the battery cables and terminals.

Along with the wire coming off the B terminal of the alternator.

The belt at the correct tension??

At any time while all this was going on did the charge light come on if it even works.

I really have to wonder about the ability of some of these people checking this stuff because it seems the average length of employment is less than 2 months.

Another thing where in the Great White North are you and how cold was it??