Holy cow, so basically you want a whole write-up.

There is no connection to the radiator, that's the whole point of a rad bypass.

The fan was a SPAL puller fan with the part # show in this pic:



I found it online somewhere a few years ago, can't remember now. The mounting I have now is behind my Superlift skid plate, which I cut slots in for air flow and reinforced for strength. Those pics and answers to most of your other questions are in this thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/b...cooler-126953/

The sensor for the Hayden controller was placed here with zip ties and then covered with RTV.



I think that's a good idea to not tie into the Taurus fan controller for several reasons.

 

Awesome, Thanks Dale (gr8 name by the way). So just to pick your brain on this subject, what would be some good choices for using OEM coolers? Was thinking I would cruise the local 'Yard' looking at system coolers. Would A/C type coolers be an option? They normally have installed fans on them or maybe finding tranny cooler from a GM or Ford such as Cadillac or Lincoln? Anyway just looking for more options. Usually these can be obtained rather cheaply. Gotta think green! LOL!

Oh and on another note, just for S&G, called a couple of the larger Toyota dealerships in the Seattle area, seems that this "issue" doesn't really exist as the service departments in these dealerships have not seen or reapired any such probelms on 3rd gens ... hmmmmm well here's another one for you conspiracy theorists!

 

I just got deja vu on that for some reason

The only OEM ATF cooler I've used was a 95 Taurus SHO cooler, which is long and skinny. If you look around and see a space it might work they are great coolers but hard to fit a fan on such a thick cooler.

Be careful using used coolers as they are hard to clean out if they get dirty or clogged with debris. I'd clean it out good with solvent and use an inline filter just down line from it to keep your tranny protected from something that might come out of it.

 

I want to avoid having all that gunky, old ATF going through my nice, clean new cooler. My line of thinking is that if I put in the cooler and then flushed, I'd still end up with junk in my new cooler. I don't think I'll lose all of my ATF when I re-route the lines into the cooler.

 

Unless you are going to get the OEM ATF external cooler for <$20, I'd skip on it and go with either a Tru-Cool or B&M or even Hayden if you care not to have the LPD feature. The TRD is just a rebaged Hayden, and way overpriced.

Concerning geographic location taking into consideration outside yearly ambient temperatures, I wonder how much our location plays a part in radiator failure. In Phoenix, a friend's father is a Toy dealer general manager and he sees the "pepto" failure quite often. And it gets hot, real hot there. I would imagine Washington does not get too hot too often.

 

Well went by local wrecking yard on way home as I remembered seeing a small transmission cooler so I thought take a look and see what was there. found this Hayden transmission cooler. I paid $5 for it. Still has some transmission fluid in it so I just took one of the hoses and looped it over and tightened the clamp and turned the hose into a handle! it measures 7 x 11 so if its just like the TRD then all I have to do is figure ou the mounting set up or if I can find the SHO cooler then I might use that one.



So Dale, do you think I can run this without a fan or should I look into getting a pusher fan? I came across a rather slim fan that might work out. The radiator fan off a Ford Aspire. It is less then 2" wide. will cost abouot $35 for the fan. Will still need to get a controller but it is an option and I want to get a temp gauge as well.

 

No, good air flow across the cooler is very important.

 

I guess what I was really asking would this work mounted in front of the radiator where it would get air flow from normal driving forward or when the radiator temp went above 180 the electric fan would kick on or should I try to mount a second fan over the tranny cooler and set it up with a fan controller to operate independently?

Is this the same or similar to the Tru-Cooler or the TRD cooler? Would this work for what I want to do?

 

In front of the radiator fan is good, as long as its running or you are moving at a moderate speed.

From what I've seen Hayden makes the TRD coolers, they are similar to the Tru-cool but don't have the built-in bypass.

 

Yeah, that makes sense. When I changed mine last time and the tranny was hot, I lost about 2.25 quarts of ATF, so make sure you've got at least that much before you do the install.

 

Just read this whole thread since i am looking to do this myself on my 94 3.0. Did they make the v6's with a manny trans? If not, wouldnt the 22r rad be smaller than the v6's and therefore not cool as well if you replaced the v6 auto radiator with one. Also i noticed on mine when i washing the underbelly from a good ride that theres a cooler underneath by the trans. is this a factory cooler that yota has put on them or some aftermarket? Since i didnt buy the 3slow new i was curious about that. Its kinda small though, like 6" x 11" maybe.

 

Thanks for the tip, gdutch.


I installed my B&M 70264 in one of my 1999 4runners today. I haven't done the ATF hoses yet, because I'm waiting on my ATF to arrive for my flush, but I don't anticipate any problems. There's plenty of room to access the nipples on the cooler and I'll thread the hose through the usual hole others have used.

In case anyone is interested, I photographed my mounting points. I hope someone finds it useful.

Quick note: the metal mounting brackets look like they've got rust on them in my photo. They don't; I hammered them into shape using a big rusty chunk of iron from an abandoned RR track as an anvil, so some rust from my anvil rubbed off on them. I may pull them and paint them, but I haven't decided.




Overview: I mounted my ATF cooler at three corners and it seems to be very secure. I wanted to bolt it in, rather than use the zip tie option. If I zip-tied through the condenser and the radiator, I'd have to cut the tie for my planned radiator replacement. Also, I was concerned about bowing in the radiator and condenser towards each other. I also just prefer bolts to zip ties.

I mounted it with the mounting flange positioned towards the front of the truck. I still have plenty of finger room to mount the hoses (or I can loosen any of the mounting bolts, of course). This position will have the input from transmission fluid coming into the top and the output back to the transmission going out the bottom. The cooler is mounted almost, but not quite, against the condenser. I don't think it will rub, but it's mounted as close to the fan as possible, and offset from the center of the fan so the blades sweep completely over the cooler's surface.




Top-left Mount: I moved the stock horn to the left and used an existing bolt to sandwich it with another part (see photo). It's not touching the part underneath it, the horn wire has a little slack still, and the horn is rock solid. This freed up some space to access the cooler to attach a hose; plus, I could now use the horn bolt to connect the mounting bracket to the truck.

The horn bolt was a little larger than the other existing bolts I used (it has a 12mm head; the others were 10mm), and the bolt was a little larger than the 1/4" holes in the mounting bracket. I bought a $3 Dremel Aluminum Oxide Grinding Stone, 3/8" Cone, and in a few minutes, I'd opened up the bracket hole enough to fit the bolt through. As shown in the photo, I hammered the metal strip to create the needed angles for the bracket. I used the included 1/4" hex bolt to connect bracket and cooler: in order, rear to front: Bolt head - 1/4" flat washer - cooler flange - 1/4" lock washer - 1/4" nut. I had to buy flat washers; everything else was included in the B&M kit from Amazon.




Bottom-left Mount: I used the existing bolt in the photo to connect to the truck. As shown in the photo, I hammered the metal strip to create the needed angles for the bracket. I drilled an additional 1/4" hole in the bracket between the 2nd to last and last holes; I couldn't get the cooler into proper alignment otherwise. I used the included 1/4" hex bolt to connect bracket and cooler: in order, rear to front: Bolt head - 1/4" flat washer - cooler flange - 1/4" lock washer - 1/4" nut. Everything but the flat washers were included in the B&M kit from Amazon.




Top-right Mount: I was particularly proud of this little connection. I first removed the plastic clip that supports the A/C line using the vertical support. I mounted the cooler directly against the vertical support using that hole. I used an included 1/4" hex bolt to connect cooler to vertical support: in order, rear to front: Bolt head - 1/4" flat washer - cooler flange - five 1/4" flat washers - Vertical support - 1/4" flat washer - bracket - 1/4" lock washer - 1/4" nut. Everything but the flat washers were included in the B&M kit from Amazon.

To reconnect the support clip, I cut down one of the metal brackets included in the kit and bent it to fit as seen in the photo. The support clip didn't quite fit in the bracket hole, so I enlarged the hole with a drill (worked better than the grinding method). It fit in perfectly afterward and it's keeping the A/C line from shaking when the truck is driving.




Top-right Mount (second view): This just shows the mounting point from another vantage point. As I mentioned before, I mounted the cooler directly against the vertical support using that hole. I used an included 1/4" hex bolt to connect cooler to vertical support: in order, rear to front: Bolt head - 1/4" flat washer - cooler flange - five 1/4" flat washers - Vertical support - 1/4" flat washer - bracket - 1/4" lock washer - 1/4" nut. Everything but the flat washers were included in the B&M kit from Amazon.

A simple little trick I used to get those five flat washers on the bolt was to stack them together and roll a little electrical tape around the edges of the washers. That way, they stayed together while I slid them in-line with the bolt, and once they were on the bolt, I just pulled off the tape.

 

Pendrag, your setup is nearly identical to mine. I used a pair of channel locks to bend the brackets though, they went pretty easily. I think I will put a ziptie to hold the cooler to the condenser if I ever end up replacing my radiator, but at the moment it's quite secure with the brackets holding it in place. I was concerned that it might rattle against the condenser but I haven't noticed any new noise at all.

If you have a temperature sensor let us know what your results are. I would be interested to know how the thicker B&M filter compares to the TruCool.

 

Channel locks might have ended up being easier than a hammer and anvil, but the hammer and anvil is so much more fun and stress relieving!

I want to add an ATF temp sensor at some point, but I don't have the spare change at the moment. I went with the B&M specifically because I live in hotter-than-hell Georgia. I've got two daily driver 1999 4runners, both at ~160k miles, so I've got to install two coolers. I'm only going to flush my truck at first, though, unless my wife's is worse than I thought (which it might be). Costs ~$100 to flush with Dextron VI.

What I am doing different than many here is that I'm adding an inline Magnefine ATF filter. I don't want to get into dropping the tranny pan, so I'm just going to flush and add the inline filter for now.

 

This looks good. I have the 70264 mounted in the same area, just flipped around.

For the future, if you need spacers, they make hard plastic and steel ones found in the specialty drawers in the nut and bolt isle of Lowes, HD, etc. With plastic ones, you can take the Dremel sanding wheel and sand them down to a specific size one needs. And they do not melt, catch fire, etc.

IMHO, the Magnefine is a great product. I have been using one for close to 10,000 miles. Mount it right after the ATF leaves the tranny. Connect everything up with some 3/8" Goodyear tranny line from AZ and you are good to go....

 

Yes.

Your model came with a small external cooler for the transfer case ATF. Your transfer case on the A340H also uses ATF.

 

Thanks MT was wondering about that. Im guessing that since it has its own cooler that it uses its its own fluid also right? I had an Amigo that had the transfer case and tranny as 1 piece and shared the fluid and ive heard of others doing that also.

 

Is there a particular brand of transmission cooler hose y'all recommend? Might as well spring for the good stuff while I'm out buying it.

 

i was thinking of going with steel braded teflon hose from a friend of mine. He works in a shop that makes all types of hoses. Never tear or rub through. Plus never breaks down.

 

Sounds tough, but is that something you can push over a 3/8" hose barb fitting?

I've always used 3/8" inch ATF cooler hose from O'Reillys.