Hey Guys,

I just drove about 400 miles from SF Bay area to LA (Ontario) in about 90 degree heat, my ac went out after the first 100 or so miles. Can any one help?

When I push the ac button, the little green light comes on, and I can hear a squealing sound from the engine bay, but no noticeable drag on the engine. This makes me think the ac clutch or something is not engaging. Also, early this morning, I could see vapors coming from the vents. Did my ac coolant just leak out?

Any ideas on what I can do to fix this? I hate the idea of having to drive back in the heat. Any hints or let me know what to look at/for would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!

 

A couple things could be happening. The pulley may have seized or the belt may be too loose. Have you checked the belt tension? Once the drag of the compressor is initiated (by pressing the AC button), it could cause a loose or worn belt to "burn" on the pulley, instead of turning it.

Your compressor may have gone out too. But, lets take it from the top, cheapest things first.

Let us know.

 

I could see that the pulley is turning, I even had someone push the AC button on and off a few times and confirmed that it was turning. The belt tension does feel on the low side, but the pulley does turn.

Can this be a relay problem? can anyone tell me which one is the AC relay?

I just think it's weird to have AC blowing cold, then nothing. Unless I just blew a major hole in one of the seals and dumped it all out at once.

Thanks again!

 

The squeal sounds like it's just a loose belt. That would explain why it comes on and off. Just tighten her up and see if that takes care of it for you. The vapors from your vents is probably just condensate from the ambient humidity. When the cold air from your vents hits humid air, it looks like fog or mist. I wouldn't think refridgerant leak at this point. Try tightening the belt. It may be that some oil got on the belt and is causing some slip as well.

Good luck.

Regards,
Ben(Miami)
'02 Limited 4X2

 

the belt is now good and tight, still no ac. Does the compressor have a magnetic clutch? I'm wondering if it's just not getting a signal from the switch, ie bad wire, bad relay, bad computer??? Any one have any ideas?

Thanks

 

The very front of the a/c compressor is the magnetic clutch.

Check to see if when you turn the a/c on, that the front of the compressor assembly is turning ( the clutch "driven" plate, which turns the compressor crankshaft).

If not, there are a few things you can do to determine the reason why. Two things come to mind that would inhibit the clutch from engaging.
1) Low refrigerant level, determined by the low pressure switch. (Quickly pushing in on the filling port valve to see if a high pressure discharge is present, do at own risk)
2) No electrical signal to clutch. (blown fuse, other electrical malfuntcions). (test light on clutch power source)

If so, I suspect a low refrigerant charge. Youll need to either go to a repair facility to have the system recharged or find a pal that knows how to do it.

 

Hi Jay,

Thanks for the advise... it really helped. I just ran out and checked it out, and the clutch does engage and disengages when the button is pressed. This atleast tells me the electrical is good. Perhaps I just ran out of refigerant.

I'm guessing that a seal must have blown to go from blowing ice cold to blowing warm air in a matter of days, or can things change that fast?

I will have a service person check it out tommorow. Maybe I can get away with just getting it recharged for the trip home and working on it when I get back to my own home area.

Thanks for your help!

 

A quick way to check if your refridgerant level is low--on R12 systems (you have a 93, right?), look for the "window" on the high side line--it's usually near the high side service port, and look at it. Use a flashlight and check to see if you have any bubbles. No bubbles means you have either no refridgerant at all, or you're all topped off. Some bubbles, or alot of bubbles means you could use a charge. Make sure your A/C is on max before you try to check.

Good luck.

Regards,
Ben(Miami)
'02 Limited 4X2

 

Thanks for all the help guys,

I took the car to Midas to have it inspected, they told me the last guy to service it added the r-134 oil to the r-12 oil and they can't touch it because the system is contaminated.

I'm gonna take it back to the guy I bought it from, he's a toyota tech in the bay area and have him take care of it, I'm pretty sure he was the last person to charge it.

 

Oh, that's not good. How did Midas know the system was converted to R134a? I think if the guy who owned the truck before you did a conversion, he probably did a quickie "Kmart" conversion (basically a few cans of R134a refridgerant and oil with new fittings and a hose set in a box). R134a is not good in a R12 system generally speaking. A proper conversion requires the changing of at least the o-rings and the dryer as well as emptying as much of the old R12 oil from the system as possible (includes the removal of compressor and changing the oil directly). R134a oil will react to eat up anything rubber. I am willing to bet that you blew either an o-ring or one of the flexible hoses that are made of rubber.

read this thread for more conversion info

Good luck.

Regards,
Ben(Miami)
'02 Limited 4X2

 

This is a good thread. My AC has never had a problem, but over the course of the summer, it has had a harder and harder time keeping up. I will check all these things tonight. As of a few days ago, no cold air at all.

Any estimates on how much a recharge of r12 should cost?

 

OK, my AC clutch works as it should, I looked in the window on the canister in front of the window. There was absolutely NOTHING in it as far as I could tell.

I'm sure the dealer does this, but I'd prefer to avoid a large expense. Any suggestions and guesstimates on pricing?

 

well, if it helps, my 93 a/c went out early august, nice hot weather to boot! it happened on vacation, so when i got back i had my mechanic check it out, seems the old r12 system is pretty much done. proper conversion to r134a in canadian funds is $700. thats a good sum for mods, i guess ill be using the 2-60 a/c from now on. maybe ill set up the compressor for oba.

lee

 

Can I not get an r12 system recharged? My system is mechanically sound...

 

Yes you can recharge R12, but I think you have to have a license to buy R12 and the proper discharge/recharge equipment. I had a friend of a friend discharge and then recharge the system in my 89 this summer. I'm not sure what the R12 cost him (maybe $30/lb?), but he only charged me $50 to discharge and then add 1 lb. additional R12. I figured that was a deal. FWIW, my system holds 1.5 lbs of R12 which is ~$45 + labor.

From my discussion with him, I would not recommend changing an R12 system to R134a unless you cannot get R12. Your A/C will not run as cool with R134a.

 

Everyone I've talked to locally wants to convert it to r134. The conversion is like $130. The last guy I talked to said that with the conversion, I'd need to have it recharged EVERY YEAR. WTF?

So I broke down and called Davis Toyota. They said $175 for an r12 recharge. Considering my first charge lasted 11 years, I might as well give it a shot.

 

I may be way out of line but $175 for a 1.5 lb (max) recharge seems high considering the cost of the R-12 is about $45. There really isn't that much time and labor involved with it. Sure, they have to pay for the equipment and what not, but I would think you could shop around and do it for less than $100.

 

I've gone to literally a dozen shops already. From what all these shops are saying, they either can't get r12, or if they wanted too, they have to buy a larger cannister of the stuff for over $1000. They just don't want the outlay of cash. Toyota said they'd do the r12 and also put a dye in it to help pinpoint any leaks (not that I think there are any)

Another question - does the grille have to come off to recharge the AC? I know there are a bunch of components for the AC right behind the grille.

 

I didn't think it would be that hard to recharge your R-12. After having mine done I even found a couple of people in my office that could do it. Since I'm in TX, the demand for A/C work is probably pretty high. On the bright side, if the cost includes adding dye and running a quick leak check, it's worth it.


On my 89, the A/C fittings we used were on the passenger side fender well. They look like schraeder valves (like for tires) and have plastic caps on them for protection. They are easy to get to. FYI, the components behind the grill are the condensor (in front of radiator) and the accumulator (beside radiator).