My '99 4runner's steering has been feeling increasingly loose and vague. I can wiggle the wheel quite a bit more than I feel like it should go before the truck steering responds. On several occasions, I've felt this weird, abrupt, slipping motion while making a turn, almost like the rear end is fishtailing a few feet. Overall, the truck feels like it's being buffeted by wind while I'm driving, even if it's not a windy day; there's a bit of yaw. Today, for the first time, I heard a new sound - like a rusty hinge squeaking - from the front left wheel area. It only squeaked a few times, very briefly.

Opinions would be welcomed.

Not sure if the following is related:
I'm also getting a lot of vibration when braking, mainly in the dash which rattles like it's going to break off, but the pedal and wheel aren't getting that much vibration. I inspected my brakes and they appear to have plenty of wear left in them. I am aware that I need a front end alignment, as the front left tire seems to be toeing in a bit. The truck bottoms out in the rear if I sit on the rear bumper, but our other 4runner doesn't do that (can rear springs wear out?). Finally, even with new sensatrac shocks in the rear, the truck is incredibly rough going over any sort of bumps.

Edit:
I recently had my U-joints replaced and I replaced my original rear shocks with Monroe Sensatracs at 170k miles.

 

http://www.wheelersoffroad.com/4runnerrackbushkit.htm

 

Isnt there a panhard bar on the 4 runners? check that bushing for the squirelly rear end thing

 

You have two 99's, which one?
I'm sorry, gotta ask concerning the front left and steering issues...considering you just replaced oe shocks at 170,000 miles (suggests not a ton of maintenance done to it) and have a vague steering issue.....how's those front lower ball joints???
Already replaced would be the correct answer here.

Yes, the rear springs get worn out.

 

This one is the 2.7L one. I've had it since about 95k, and I've done basic maintenance, put in a external tranny cooler, but I haven't touched the suspension other than the rear shocks. I'm teaching myself to work on the truck as I go. First I had the time but not the money, now I've got a little more money, but less time. Isn't that always the case?

 

That IS the case. I'm doing the same 'cept I haven't got to the money part yet.

Do a search on lower ball joint failure. You're at the mileage for it even if that left one isn't your problem. Use OEM. It's not very hard and it is very important. While you're under there you can look at tie rod ends, sway bar links and bushings, steering rack bushings, etc. etc.
Keep us posted!

 

I put the truck up on stands (on the frame) and let the front end sag down. I did the wiggle test on the wheels. If I understood right, for the ball joints I was supposed to grab the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock then alternate pushing the top in while pulling the bottom out, then reverse, while listening for a clunk and feeling for slack? I also wedged a lever under the tire and jiggled it up and down. Then to check the tie rods I do the same thing at 3 and 9 o'clock (essentially wiggling the tires between a left and right turn)? Everything I read said "push and pull on the tires" but they weren't clear if it was push and pull both sides at once (i.e., toward and away from me) or push one side while pulling the other. lol

Anyway, The 12 and 6 o'clock didn't have any play, and the 3 and 9 o'clock caused my locked steering wheel to shake a fair bit.


I got under there and looked at my bushings. I've never changed them before, so I wasn't sure how much wear was too much. Some of them look pretty cracked as far as I can see. I also did a little video of the steering column turning while someone turns the steering wheel. Nothing felt loose when I had someone crank on the tires as I inspected from under the truck.

I'd appreciate some advice from someone more experienced than me with suspension.

Video is available in 720p.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xgTkLLeix-Y

 

I'm assuming your video is in response to the steering rack bushing kit post? To check that have someone steer left and right, wheels on the ground. What does the rack and pinion do? Wiggle just a tad or a lot? The bushings that hold the rack and pinion wear and allow the rack to move more than it was intended. We'd need a video of the whole rack as the steering's being turned for a better clue on that one. You should be able to see that one for yourself.

For my 96 worn control arm bushings produced a clunk. It was also very hard to align and the left control arm could be easily moved back and forth with a crowbar. I don't know if this is normally the case.
On my 99 the driver's side lower ball joint was failing (165,000 miles) yet it felt solid when I checked it the same way you did. It started popping sometimes and feeling a tiny bit funny on turns. Considering the mileage and the damage failure brings, both of the lower ball joints got replaced at that time with OE.

The upsidedown upper ball joint pic is messing with my head!

 

Ok, didn't realize I should have had the wheels on the ground for the steering rack. I'll get on it...

I am not hearing a clunking sound. It's more a sense that the truck wants to wander around the road. It feels a lot like when you're driving and the wind hits your car and pushes you a little, but it happens when it's not windy. The steering just feels loose and sloppy. Also, I was getting that strange side-slip I talked about earlier and a few brief squeaks, but that's it.

How do those bushings look in the photos above? Are they so cracked I should replace them?


Sorry about the upside down photo. I took the pics with my camera phone and they were all turned around because the phone didn't know which way was up. lol

 

my 99 4runner use to have the same type of vibration while braking and come to find out it was my brake rotors

 

Simple solution to your current dilemma.
1- the link above for the steering rack bushing kit will tidy up the steering and give you a solid feel back in the wheel.

2- Toyota does have a torque tolerance for all their ball joints, TRE's (tie rod end). Search for a FSM (factory service manual) download...their located on this forum usually in signatures.

3- If you can take off the OTRE with out damaging them, then you can check the tolerances...but cheap insurance if you plan on keeping the 4Runner is replace the joints.

I know money is tight these days for most people, my self included. Because of this, I purchased one part per pay check until I had em' all, the upper/ lower BJ's and inner/ outter TRE's. For the upper BJ, you will need a press and likewise for the control ARM bushings. Please dont skimp when it comes to these parts. There is a lot riding on the quality of parts you choose. Factory "555"...another search will yield valuable information here as well. Spend some time and search and read and you'll be miles ahead when you tare into the job.

-Ted

 

I'm reading through the FSM, but I'm new to working on my suspension - still trying to figure out a tie rod from a stabilizer bar - that's why I was asking about whether the bushings in my photos look like they need replacing. I'm trying to learn though!

I need to get a feel for what needs doing 'yesterday' and what can wait until the summer (I'm in a really busy work period and I won't be free until June/July to really tear into it).

Sorry, what is OTRE?

 

OTRE- outer tie rod end.

Were it me, lower ball joints would be my priority. USE OEM LOWER BALL JOINTS!
Worn outer tie rod ends make sense when you're doing lower ball joints so I'd do that too if they needed it. Steering rack bushings are around $25 for a kit at Wheeler's and make sense to do with the tie rod ends if it needs it. You'll also need an alignment. It might be a little mechanic gluttony, but you'd be saving yourself unbuttoning the truck several times to do these three things at once.

If you need lower control arm bushings you have to undo the lower shock bolt, outer tie rod end, sway bar link, the steering rack enough to get it out of the way of the rear control arm bolt, the control arm bolts and the ball joint bolts that hold the ball joint to the spindle. And have it aligned after you've got them done and the truck back together.

All these things can cause a wandering feeling.

Where the steering rack bushings live:

 

Super nice habanero for squaring out the locations. Mine had the wandering feeling, bushings weren't cracking but I researched and came to the conclusion this was a common problem. So they were replaced. Helped, but didn't cure it. Next were the TRE's. Originally, the OTRE's were the only ones that I planned on. But once I took them apart, realized the inner's were shot. Retrieved the "555" parts needed, then tore into the upper and lower BJ's and all is right with the rigs steering now...handles like new again. However, the rear still likes to wander a little so those are next on the short list.

 

In addition to all the things already mentioned, don't look past the steering wheel slip joint play that plagued many early 2000s Tacoma owners.

Diagnose and Fix Steering Play/Rattle

Does your 4runner track straight on a flat smooth highway road when the weather is NOT windy? If you still have problems on the highway with low wind conditions, the steering column may not be your problem, however. Mine tracks straight on highway roads its just on the bumpy, uneven, asphalt roads that it starts to wander all over the place. I am going to further investigate my steering column as it becomes scary to the point where I have to slow down sometimes. I know the welded steering column fix has helped more than one 4runner owner as well.

Hope this helps a little.

 

From the pictures you have posted, they do look a bit worn/ cracked. But, a visual inspection is just that...visual. If you take the BJ's apart from the steering knuckle, you can check each one individually. But if you're going to go this far, you might as well do the whole job.

This whole job should take a novice about the whole weekend. I work very slow and methodically as well as taking several smoke breaks, and it took me the weekend...I only worked on it about 4 hours on Sat. and 3 on Sunday. Just make sure you have all the parts/ tools handy. A grease gun is something you'll need as well to grease the joint's if they have a zerk fitting.

-Ted

 

I had the same kind of feeling in the rear of my truck. I installed the Energy Suspension polyurethane bushing and that tightened up the back end very nicely. Easy to do but be forewarned, the old bushings need to be pressed out of the trackbar.

Sorry, no pics.

 

I asked this question in a thread you posted in: Do you have a part number for these bushings in the track bar? PM me please, I don't want to thread jack. Thanks in advance.
-Ted

 

What I would do for a rust free under carriage.!!!!

 

I can wiggle the wheel quite a bit more than I feel like it should go before the truck steering responds.

yep, ball joints