Can anyone advise the best place to get the 99+ 3rd Gen headlights. I see them on eBay but I've been burned before with fake Brembo rotors and low quality aftermarket items. I want to replace the lights on my 98 with the better ones but don't want to pay huge $ to get from Toyota. Anyone find any quality aftermarket for this conversion?

 

hit up JasonB on the board. He will set you straight

 

as someone who just did this over the weekend, upgrade your wiring harness at the same time. (or even instead)! Roger has them for a great price.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...OnLineOrdering

I paid around USD$120/side for the lamps plus all the usual... I think Jason is in the same neighborhood, IIRC, so that's a good tip!

 

Thanks for the info. JasonB are you out there?

 

Heres my email from Roger,


Kevin mak wrote:
> Hello,
>
>
> I own a 2000 4runner which uses h4 type lighting originally. Would using
> any of your harnesses provide anymore necessary light output? After all
> the 00 4runner have glass headlights...

One sure way to tell is to measure the voltage at the headlights under load, as described on the web page. If your lamp voltage
is not within a few 10ths of a volt of the battery, you have a voltage drop. It is real easy to see if your headlights are
being hampered by the wiring. Just slide back the connector partway off the back of the bulb to just expose the connections. Put
a volt meter right across the bulb (common-low or common-high) and measure the voltage with the lights on. If it is not within a
few 10ths of a volt of the battery, the wiring is limiting the light output. FOr example with my 2 volt drop, I lost 50% of the
light's output, since the light output is proportional to about the cube of the voltage. Even a 1 volt drop is about a 20% light
reduction. And in case you think I'm making this up, here is a link to a site that explains it in way more detail and wih hard
numbers:

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...ys/relays.html

And from the site:

WHY USE RELAYS?

Power for the headlights is controlled by a switch on the dash. This is *not* a great place to tap into the system, for two
reasons: The headlamp switch uses tiny, high-resistance contacts to complete circuits, and the wire lengths required to run from
the battery to the dashboard and all the way out to the headlamps creates excessive resistive voltage drop, especially with the
thin wires used in most factory installations.

In many cases, the thin factory wires are inadequate even for the stock headlamp equipment. Headlamp bulb light output is
severely compromised with decreased voltage. The drop in light output is not linear, it is exponential with the power 3.4. For
example, let's consider a 9006 low beam bulb rated 1000 lumens at 12.8 Volts and plug in different voltages:

10.5V : 510 lumens
11.0V : 597 lumens
11.5V : 695 lumens
12.0V : 803 lumens
12.5V : 923 lumens
12.8V : 1000 lumens ←Rated output voltage
13.0V : 1054 lumens
13.5V : 1198 lumens
14.0V : 1356 lumens ←Rated life voltage
14.5V : 1528 lumens

--
Roger

 

he's at: www.burtmanindustries

And the product is:
http://www.burtmanindustries.com/zoo...eads_upg_99-02

Alternate places:

http://www.pcpautoparts.com/SearchOEM.asp

Dang... can't remember the others...