98 4Runner fishtailing problem
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Saskatoon, SK
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
98 4Runner fishtailing problem
I'm not sure if this is related but this is all the back-story I've got. I noticed that my 4Runner pulled to the side a little during braking on gravel so I took it in to a recommended local shop and asked him to check it out. He said everything looked fine. Everything on the truck is still stock. No mods.
It seemed a little squirly when the roads were wet but I didn't think much of it until the other day when I went over a patch of ice and the back end kicked out hard to the left. Luckily the ice patch was only about ten feet long so I regained control on the other side. I was cruising on a highway not slowing down, not speeding up just cruising at around 2000rpm in overdrive. I went over two more similar patches of ice in similar conditions and every time the back end kicked out hard to the left. On the last one I let my foot off the gas and it still happened.
What can cause that?
I've only had it for about a month and the previous owner put new tires on so the tires don't show any unusual wear.
It seemed a little squirly when the roads were wet but I didn't think much of it until the other day when I went over a patch of ice and the back end kicked out hard to the left. Luckily the ice patch was only about ten feet long so I regained control on the other side. I was cruising on a highway not slowing down, not speeding up just cruising at around 2000rpm in overdrive. I went over two more similar patches of ice in similar conditions and every time the back end kicked out hard to the left. On the last one I let my foot off the gas and it still happened.
What can cause that?
I've only had it for about a month and the previous owner put new tires on so the tires don't show any unusual wear.
#6
Registered User
Open diff would only matter if he was slamming the throttle when on the ice. That is certainly not normal behavior for any normally operating vehicle. Are you sure you don't have a brake dragging or something. It sounds like what happens when you yank the e-brake when on ice. Or do you have one tire worn excessively more that the other on the back?
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I agree with dannomite: it sounds like something's hanging up on the left side of your truck. I think you should get it on a lift so you can spin the wheels to make sure nothing's seized up. I've had my e-brake freeze before and the sensation when I hit a patch of ice was similar to what you described.
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Marquette, MI
Posts: 484
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Jack truck off ground, check for seized stuff. Take rear wheels off, take off brake drums, make sure everything in there is kosher. Make sure the little pivots that attach the ebrake cable to the back of the drum move freely. (it will make sense when you go look at it)
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Saskatoon, SK
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Saskatoon, SK
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Alright. The driver's rear is definitely getting hung up on something. I jacked up both sides and put it in neutral. The passenger side spun as much as I expected (close to one full rotation after a hard spin). The driver's side had noticeably more resistance and stopped dead as soon as I stopped spinning.
I checked the ebrake cable linkage and it looked fine. There was around 1/4" play where the cable attaches to the rear side of the drum.
How hard should it be to get the drum off of the rear axle? Are there any other nuts or bolts holding it on after the tire is removed? What's the best tactic for getting it off?
I checked the ebrake cable linkage and it looked fine. There was around 1/4" play where the cable attaches to the rear side of the drum.
How hard should it be to get the drum off of the rear axle? Are there any other nuts or bolts holding it on after the tire is removed? What's the best tactic for getting it off?
#17
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Marquette, MI
Posts: 484
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
See that mechanism in your second picture that is attached to the drum? That the e-brake cable attaches to? That should move freely, well to an extent, its attached to some springs, but you get what i mean, it shouldn't be sticky. That part is actually key to adjusting your brake pads for wear and such. There is play in the cable itself, but the metal thing that hinges is whats important.
The system has some inherent drag in it, mine when working properly, (as far as i know) will not spin freely for very long at all, but it still does not fee ab-normal.
As for getting the drums off, mine popped off relatively easy. They just pull off freely nothing holding im them on. (Make sure your brakes aren't on as that will hold them on) Id hit them with a hammer, to free them up.
Looks like you have fluid coming out of your drums. Have you ever changed your rear axle seals? Might need to now, as that fluid will leak out and ruin your brake pads.
The system has some inherent drag in it, mine when working properly, (as far as i know) will not spin freely for very long at all, but it still does not fee ab-normal.
As for getting the drums off, mine popped off relatively easy. They just pull off freely nothing holding im them on. (Make sure your brakes aren't on as that will hold them on) Id hit them with a hammer, to free them up.
Looks like you have fluid coming out of your drums. Have you ever changed your rear axle seals? Might need to now, as that fluid will leak out and ruin your brake pads.
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Saskatoon, SK
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think the fluid is just water. It was raining outside when I drove up to the garage.
Do you mean the silver colored thing that the blue arrow is pointing at or the larger piece that the red arrows are pointing at?
Do you mean the silver colored thing that the blue arrow is pointing at or the larger piece that the red arrows are pointing at?
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Roseville, CA
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i see toyotas all day at work. the drums are a pain to get off. spray a little wd around the hub and then smack the face with a hammer turning the drum after every hit. if that dosent work them get two bolts that fit in those two little holes and tighten them down a little at a time. it will pop off after a couple turns. then clean off the hub. good luck.
#20
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Saskatoon, SK
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I checked again and the thing that the red arrows point at is not seized up. When I pull on it (simulating the ebrake being applied) I'm able to get it to move around 1/4". The adjustment bolt doesn't look like it has ever been adjusted. When the ebrake is off the springs hold that piece of metal against the adjustment bolt. If I were to screw that bolt out a bit it would leave the ebrake more off.... if that makes any sense.
Is that the only adjustment for the whole side, or is there more adjustment once you get the drum off?
Is that the only adjustment for the whole side, or is there more adjustment once you get the drum off?