Oops, I just figured they would have the TKT-025 kit too.

There are some "5VZFE timing belt kits" listed on ebay. The good kits will have Toyota boxed parts or a Mitsuboshi timing belt, Aisin water pump, Koyo/NSK and possibly GMB idlers, Bando auxillary belts.

Here is one such kit including the tensioner (a brand thermostat I'm less familiar with):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyot...Q5fAccessories

or:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Timin...item3ef70b68dd

Hope this helps.....a search for AISIN TKT-025 may turn up some leads too.

 

last one listed is what i got very nice kit

 

I had a squealing fan belt that was getting annoying, so I took advantage of some good weather to install the full kit (minus shaft seals) at 200k. Since I had done most of this before it was mostly familiar, but still was a full 8hrs of work. I could not get at the rear tensioner bolt with the 3/8" extensions and u-joint I had. They were just too fat even after shifting the wire loom away. I ended up unbolting the pwr steering pump, AC compressor and bracket like I did last time. Not as bad as I remember. A set of 1/4" tools with u-joint (or a snake flex) would have worked on the tensioner but I had no ride to the store. I think it would be smarter to buy these than an expensive single purpose compressor tool.

To remove the crank pulley bolt I first tried my air gun (110psi is not enough), then I did like last time and took off the torque converter cover plate and jammed a pry bar in the starter ring teeth. There is a spot below the starter just for that purpose. With 4WD there is not much room to get at 2 of cover bolts. I can just do it with a box wrench, but you may want some small hands assistance. At any rate, this was a sure deal compared to making a pulley holder with parts I didn't have.

The lower radiator bolts were frozen. I had to remove the radiator bracket on one side.
I didn't replace any shaft seals - they looked dry.
Once you have the timing belt off, the extra work to replace the pump is small.
I compared the old water pump with the new one I put on. Even at 200k, they felt identical. The 2 old idler pulleys on the other hand, felt different from the new ones - still smooth but with some noise and spinning much more freely. The lube was probably degraded or mostly gone.
The old timing belt (120k) still looked good. Limp, but good.
The new tensioner comes with a retaining pin in place so you don't need a fancy compressor tool or a bench vice either.
Put the t-belt on before you put on the top idler pulley (sometimes it pays to read the manual).

I don't plan on looking at any of this stuff for another 120K.