Is it just as easy as any other car? (Front brakes)

Are they pads or shoes? Or is there a difference?

Does anyone have a write up?

 

Front are disc brakes, rear are drums. Just changing the front pads is very easy. It's more of a process if you are changing out the rotors as well. I believe AgRunner just did a write up on this - try a search and see what it yields.

 

Here's the link for the brake job that I did. You will find the links to 4x4wire in my thread that will provide you with the info you need to replace your rotors if you decide to go that route.

If I remember right, you don't even have to remove the calipers to replace the pads. I think there is a retaining clip or something that you take off and the pads slide out. Then you have to compress the calipers somehow. I think the way for doing it has been discussed but I can't seem to remember. Just try searching, you should turn up quite a bit of info.

 

- yea all I need to do is change the front pads....they're squeakin a lil bit.


No need to change the hub or hub bearing.

does the fact that its 4x4 make a difference on how the brakes are set up?



However....I didnt gain a lot from reading the maunal hub post.

It's strait.



Now, will the jackstand in tha back be tall enough????

 

uh...why are you putting jack stand in the back? put them in the front under the frame...where the body mount's at is fine. put a block behine the rear wheel for safety also.

 

Compress the caliper with a large c-clamp. You need to take the caliper off to do this, but there are only (usually) two hex bolts that need to be loosened.

 

I just:

1. Break the front lug nuts loose.

2. Jack the truck up and place jack stands under the front suspension brace.

3. Take off all lug nuts and remove both wheels

4. Remove the spring wires that act as retaining clips (remember how they were so you can re-install them correctly)

5. Remove retaining pins (pull them out with needle nose pliers)

6. Using a large set of channel lock pliers, I compress the pistons by clamping on the pad, on one of the "loops" where a retaining pin went through, and the caliper itself. There is no need to remove the caliper. I wrap electrical tape around the ends of the channel lock jaws so no to scar the calipers.

7. Repeat step 6 for both inner and outer pads on both sides of the truck.....a total of four pads pushing back their respective pistons.

8. Insert new pads ( I use Performance Friction from Autozone). Re-install shims on the backs of the pads if you have them. Also, use a little brake pad lube on the BACK of each pads before inserting them into the calipers to prevent squealing on the pistons.

9. Insert pins back through pads and calipers.

10. Re-Install spring-wire retaining clips.

11. Put wheels back on and tighten lug nuts.

12. Take truck off of jack stands.

13. Start truck and pump brake pedal several times before shifting into gear. if you don't YOU WILL NOT HAVE ANY BRAKES until the system reprimes the fluid to adjust for the new pad thickness.

14. Be easy on the brakes during the first several miles in order prevent glazing of the pad surfaces and to let them cut in correctly.

Hope this helps.
David

 

I meant - the jack stand from the back of the runner. (cargo area)

 

If you are talking about the jack that comes with the vehicle, it will be tall enough but you shouldn't work on your vehicle with that jack. It can easily fall (I learned this the hard way with my Ram). A floor jack would be a different story just as long as you aren't underneath it. Just jack it up and put a jack stand underneath it. That way you'll be safe.

 

If you are changing the pads because of a squeek, chances are your squeek will return(unless it was caused by a wear sensor) Typically a rotor even warped slightly will cause a squeel. I would definatlly recomend turning the rotors. No amount of antisqueel can cure a warped rotor squeel. Also it is good practice to open the bleeder screw to releave the brake fluid while compressing the calipers, instead of sending dirty fluid back to your master cylinder or ABS.

 

Thanks man!

I'll look into it