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4WD won't disengage on 99 4Runner LTD
04-15-2010, 03:13 AM
#141
Registered User
hi guys, i have been reading this thread and it has alot of good information in it, but it is quite complicated as i am fairly new to my truck and the whole 4wd lark.
i have a 1993 hilux sr5 2.8D manual and it is stuck in 4wd, the light is solid and will not go out.
when i click the 4wd button on the low range gear stick i hear a motor go, i also get vacuum in the pipes, but it still will not get out of 4wd.
this is very bad as i drive the car mainly on road, and parking it in my drive involves hard turning and this causes the wheels to screach and hop aswell as making an alraming knocking noise from the diff's.
i am afraid i am going to break something if i keep driving it this way but i dont know what is broken or how to go about testing things.
please help
thanks.
i have a 1993 hilux sr5 2.8D manual and it is stuck in 4wd, the light is solid and will not go out.
when i click the 4wd button on the low range gear stick i hear a motor go, i also get vacuum in the pipes, but it still will not get out of 4wd.
this is very bad as i drive the car mainly on road, and parking it in my drive involves hard turning and this causes the wheels to screach and hop aswell as making an alraming knocking noise from the diff's.
i am afraid i am going to break something if i keep driving it this way but i dont know what is broken or how to go about testing things.
please help
thanks.
04-15-2010, 09:00 PM
#142
Hi 1993hiluxsr5,
Sorry just starting out as well not as knowledgeable as the rest of the guys here.
***GOT MORE PICS of rear actuator*** 99 4RUNNER LIMITED STUCK ON 4WD**
Ok so I got the 27mm socket so I can remove the front diff switch and test it but after reading the forum again I thought I would first try to give 12v/ ground to pins 2 and 3 of the Rear Actuator to shift the Runner into 2wd. Well, I hear the motor of the actuator moving and then it stops. So I get in the truck so excited and then, lights still blinking and still in 4wd. so I decided to press the button on the shifter and the blinking stops only for a moment and then starts up again. FAILED!! Well I tried it again and reversed the wires polarity and again I hear the motor of the actuator move and I test drive again and its still in 4wd. I don't get it.
Well, I will try it again when there is daylight out.
Oh and here are links to the pictures of the Rear Actuator :
http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/2594/dscn5460.jpg
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/7291/dscn5463f.jpg
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/6482/dscn5464.jpg
Sorry just starting out as well not as knowledgeable as the rest of the guys here.
***GOT MORE PICS of rear actuator*** 99 4RUNNER LIMITED STUCK ON 4WD**
Ok so I got the 27mm socket so I can remove the front diff switch and test it but after reading the forum again I thought I would first try to give 12v/ ground to pins 2 and 3 of the Rear Actuator to shift the Runner into 2wd. Well, I hear the motor of the actuator moving and then it stops. So I get in the truck so excited and then, lights still blinking and still in 4wd. so I decided to press the button on the shifter and the blinking stops only for a moment and then starts up again. FAILED!! Well I tried it again and reversed the wires polarity and again I hear the motor of the actuator move and I test drive again and its still in 4wd. I don't get it.
Well, I will try it again when there is daylight out.
Oh and here are links to the pictures of the Rear Actuator :
http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/2594/dscn5460.jpg
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/7291/dscn5463f.jpg
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/6482/dscn5464.jpg
04-16-2010, 03:32 PM
#143
Registered User
Thread Starter
Go thru and test the front diff switch and see if it is bad or not. If it is good, then move to the transfer case and the same transfer switches on the t-case to verify you don't have a bad switch there.
When you jumper pins 2 and 3 of the rear t-case actuator, it will move the shaft of the rear actuator to either 4wd or 2wd mode. I had my front end jacked up off the ground on jackstands when it was stuck in 4wd mode, then when I jumpered it into 2wd mode, I could move the front tires without them engaging the front axle.
Have you tested the vacuum valves on the inner fender on the left side to see if you have a vacuum leak? It could be a possibility.
Doug
When you jumper pins 2 and 3 of the rear t-case actuator, it will move the shaft of the rear actuator to either 4wd or 2wd mode. I had my front end jacked up off the ground on jackstands when it was stuck in 4wd mode, then when I jumpered it into 2wd mode, I could move the front tires without them engaging the front axle.
Have you tested the vacuum valves on the inner fender on the left side to see if you have a vacuum leak? It could be a possibility.
Doug
04-20-2010, 06:11 PM
#144
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Auburn Michigan
Posts: 14
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well its the ECU
ender81 how soon can you get me that ECO and how can we do this?
Toyota dealers are bad they had their 2 top mech verify i have bad rear actuator WRONG after changing it is still same and i pulled apart the ECU big fry marks and burned spots i asked them check that even pulled covers for them and they unmounted eco left it hanging and said its ok they suck wish i would have just save all money put into it and did solid axle swap
well thats going to have to wiat now thats big bucks
you can call me email me tonyoo8233@hotmail.com
Toyota dealers are bad they had their 2 top mech verify i have bad rear actuator WRONG after changing it is still same and i pulled apart the ECU big fry marks and burned spots i asked them check that even pulled covers for them and they unmounted eco left it hanging and said its ok they suck wish i would have just save all money put into it and did solid axle swap
well thats going to have to wiat now thats big bucks
you can call me email me tonyoo8233@hotmail.com
04-20-2010, 08:08 PM
#146
Registered User
Update
ok heres what i did, i took your advice and jacked my front wheels up off the ground, i then removed the 4wd sensor on the front diff and physically pushed the pin back with a screw driver, and hey! 2wd , but when i start the engine it pops right back 4wd with locked diff, so i decided to check everything, and it all seemed ok, air lines-perfect, wireing-perfect relays-perfect, i was stumped! so i figured screw this and made my own 4wd switch with a new relay, and it works perfectly now!, so i can now switch between 4wd and 2wd with a switch on my dash 
, but i have one question, what does the 4wd button on the gearstick do?, because mine does nothing, never did! and i havnt touched it at all, i wired my relay up around everything else as to not damage any of the car's factory components.
so what does the 4wd button do, i press it, i hear a motor sound, but im still in rear wheel drive.
whats else is broken now ?
thanks
, but i have one question, what does the 4wd button on the gearstick do?, because mine does nothing, never did! and i havnt touched it at all, i wired my relay up around everything else as to not damage any of the car's factory components.so what does the 4wd button do, i press it, i hear a motor sound, but im still in rear wheel drive.
whats else is broken now ?
thanks
04-20-2010, 09:34 PM
#147
Registered User
Thread Starter
The 4WD button on the transfer case shifter is usually the AWD mode. Are you working on a 1993 4Runner? I don't know much about the older ones, but it sounds like a transfer switch on the transfer case is bad from your description 1993hiluxsr5.
04-21-2010, 01:58 AM
#148
Registered User
thanks
04-21-2010, 11:23 PM
#149
Registered User
Thread Starter
I highly doubt it's the rear actuator at fault. There are IIRC 4 transfer switches/sensors on the 99 4Runner - 1 at the front diff, 2 on the left side (L4 position switch and the neutral position switch), and the 1 on the right side of the transfer case (center differential lock switch). If it's not the front diff switch (up by the ADD actuator) then it has to be one of the other 3 switches, the 4wd ecu, or a vacuum switching valve or line.
Have you jumpered pins 2 and 3 on the rear actuator wiring connector to see if it will engage and disengage the front end? You can touch pins 2 and 3 with a pos and neg lead from like a battery charger on 2amp setting and it should move the rear t-case actuator one direction, then reverse the leads and it will move it the other direction.
Have you jumpered pins 2 and 3 on the rear actuator wiring connector to see if it will engage and disengage the front end? You can touch pins 2 and 3 with a pos and neg lead from like a battery charger on 2amp setting and it should move the rear t-case actuator one direction, then reverse the leads and it will move it the other direction.
04-21-2010, 11:31 PM
#150
Registered User
No i havnt jumped the actuator yet, but i can hear it working and thats what i find so strange.
and also my vacume hoses seem to be only for the diff lock so how would they engage just the 4wd without the diff locked ? :S
and i what do the switches actualyl do ?
thanks
and also my vacume hoses seem to be only for the diff lock so how would they engage just the 4wd without the diff locked ? :S
and i what do the switches actualyl do ?
thanks
04-22-2010, 08:26 AM
#151
Registered User
Thread Starter
The vacuum switching valves control when vacuum is applied to the front ADD actuator for 4WD and 2WD modes.
The one switch at the front diff when the switch is closed tells the 4WD computer that the front diff ADD actuator is engaged in 4WD mode and that will allow the 4wd system to lock the transfer case into 4wd mode.
The center differential lock switch when closed tells the 4wd computer that the front end is engaged in 4wd mode and that the t-case can be locked into 4wd mode.
The L4 position switch on the t-case must send a signal to the computer to let it know that the t-case shifter has been placed into the Low 4wd position.
The neutral position switch must send a signal to the 4wd computer that the shifter has been placed into the neutral position. I haven't dived that far into the 4wd system as much lately since mine has been working great since I isolated my 4wd system issue and fixed it with a front diff switch.
The one switch at the front diff when the switch is closed tells the 4WD computer that the front diff ADD actuator is engaged in 4WD mode and that will allow the 4wd system to lock the transfer case into 4wd mode.
The center differential lock switch when closed tells the 4wd computer that the front end is engaged in 4wd mode and that the t-case can be locked into 4wd mode.
The L4 position switch on the t-case must send a signal to the computer to let it know that the t-case shifter has been placed into the Low 4wd position.
The neutral position switch must send a signal to the 4wd computer that the shifter has been placed into the neutral position. I haven't dived that far into the 4wd system as much lately since mine has been working great since I isolated my 4wd system issue and fixed it with a front diff switch.
04-23-2010, 12:06 AM
#152
Registered User
Ok i think my truck is very weird, my truck seems to have no AWD only 2wd and 4wd with locked front diff, is this normal ?
my truck only has one light on the dash for the 4wd and its green writing saying "4WD" there is not diff lock indicator!
when in 2wd i can spin my front drive shaft whilst all 4 wheels are still on the ground.
then if i click my home made 4WD switch on the dash i cannot spin the fron axle, this is all very well and good and normal. but
my transfer case actuator must be for show !? i mean what the hell does it do !!
the only thing that it does is lock the front driveshaft to the rear one, which does absolutley nothing because its still in 2wd !!
and the only 4WD i have is after i have locked the diff. and that means the only 4wd i have results in me not being able to turn without smashing my diffs to bits (they clunk and bang while turning in 4wd)
so i dont think my truck has AWD because if i can turn the front driveshaft by hand in 2wd then its not turning the diff, so even if the front driveshaft is locked to the rear driveshaft im still only in 2wd, see my problem now ? :S
then by locking the front diff i get the front diff to engage the driveshaft but then i cannot turn (not very usefull unless offroading in a dead straight line)
so in conclusion, the only 4WD i have is with the diff locked, and i can have either 2wd with both driveshafts spinning or 2wd with just the rear driveshaft spinning, AHHH im so confused!!!
PLEASE HELP i need the truck for land cruiser park this weekend!!
my truck only has one light on the dash for the 4wd and its green writing saying "4WD" there is not diff lock indicator!
when in 2wd i can spin my front drive shaft whilst all 4 wheels are still on the ground.
then if i click my home made 4WD switch on the dash i cannot spin the fron axle, this is all very well and good and normal. but
my transfer case actuator must be for show !? i mean what the hell does it do !!
the only thing that it does is lock the front driveshaft to the rear one, which does absolutley nothing because its still in 2wd !!
and the only 4WD i have is after i have locked the diff. and that means the only 4wd i have results in me not being able to turn without smashing my diffs to bits (they clunk and bang while turning in 4wd)
so i dont think my truck has AWD because if i can turn the front driveshaft by hand in 2wd then its not turning the diff, so even if the front driveshaft is locked to the rear driveshaft im still only in 2wd, see my problem now ? :S
then by locking the front diff i get the front diff to engage the driveshaft but then i cannot turn (not very usefull unless offroading in a dead straight line)
so in conclusion, the only 4WD i have is with the diff locked, and i can have either 2wd with both driveshafts spinning or 2wd with just the rear driveshaft spinning, AHHH im so confused!!!
PLEASE HELP i need the truck for land cruiser park this weekend!!
04-23-2010, 12:23 AM
#154
Registered User
04-23-2010, 11:54 PM
#155
Registered User
FIXED IT!! thank you guys so much for all the help.
the problem was the transfer case motor, it was locked into 4wd, and as a result it was locking the front diff, so there was no A.D.D faults at all, it was all the tcase motor making it fail.
so now the car works 100% and i have been able to remove my home made difflock switch and rewire the factory one back together, so now the car works how it should.
thanks guys, and perfect timing as im off to landcruiser park tomorw
the problem was the transfer case motor, it was locked into 4wd, and as a result it was locking the front diff, so there was no A.D.D faults at all, it was all the tcase motor making it fail.
so now the car works 100% and i have been able to remove my home made difflock switch and rewire the factory one back together, so now the car works how it should.
thanks guys, and perfect timing as im off to landcruiser park tomorw
04-26-2010, 06:46 AM
#156
Hey Guys,
Sorry been busy and raining so didnt have chance to check front diff switch til today. I pulled it off, took a multimeter set to ohm setting/ continuity and touched both pins. With the plunger out it showed nothing no tone, I pushed plunger in with my thumb and again no reading or tone. Please let me know if I was testing this right as the part cost upwards of $70+ dollars here in California.
Blessings
Rome
Sorry been busy and raining so didnt have chance to check front diff switch til today. I pulled it off, took a multimeter set to ohm setting/ continuity and touched both pins. With the plunger out it showed nothing no tone, I pushed plunger in with my thumb and again no reading or tone. Please let me know if I was testing this right as the part cost upwards of $70+ dollars here in California.
Blessings
Rome
04-26-2010, 06:09 PM
#157
FIXED...FIXED..FIXED...1999 4Runner Limited 4WD stuck!
Being a newbie to 4WD it was difficult for me to see things. Special thanks to Doug for his help. You really saved us all a bunch of money. I took several pics and tried to make a simple step by step for other newbies if their trouble ends up being the front diff switch. Like Doug said a great first place to start. You will need ratchets that will fit a 12mm socket for the bolts of the skid plate and a 27mm socket YES 27mm! You more than like likely wont have this. It runs about $8 at Lowe's, just a regular one, NOT the deep socket one. You will also need a multimeter which are very cheap at Lowe's as well or Radio Shack. I borrowed one from a friend.
Step 1 - Remove your front skid plate if you have one. There will be 4 bolts. Here is what it looks like.
http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/796...onepics021.jpg
Step 2 - Locate the front differential switch, it is attached to the front actuator. This is located in front directly behind the oil pan. See pic below.
http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/7...diffsensor.jpg
http://img227.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics010.jpg/
http://img237.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics011.jpg/
http://img338.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics012.jpg/
Step 3- Remove the attached wire from the switch. There is a tab on the wires Grey portion that you simply push down on with your finger and at the same time you pull.
http://img237.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics016.jpg/
http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/5867/dscn5456.jpg
Step 4- Remove the switch. Now with the wire removed, you will need the 27mm socket and 1/2 ratchet to loosen the switch. It is a tight fit like someone here in the forum said but it you attach the socket first and then put the handle of the ratchet up first in the space you will then be able to slip it on the switch and loosen it and then once loosen use your fingers to remove it the rest of the way. You cant loosen it all the way with the ratchet or it will get stuck.
http://img18.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics022.jpg/
http://img130.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics014.jpg/
Step 5 - Test the switch. Get the multimeter and touch both pins with a separate wire from the meter. With the plunger out/ normal you will get no reading. Next push the plunger with your thumb and check reading you should hear a tone or see continuity. If not your switch is bad. Mine was bad. Part number is 84222-35070. See pic below.
http://img227.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics006.jpg/
http://img25.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics004.jpg/
http://img210.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics001.jpg/
http://img196.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics002.jpg/
Notes:
The dealership closet to me wanted $61.24 for it but, I called all the dealerships around and one had it for $49 so they price matched it. Now I have a working 4WD system. Hope this helps.
http://img155.imageshack.us/g/61609iphonepics007.jpg/
God Bless you all,
Rome
Being a newbie to 4WD it was difficult for me to see things. Special thanks to Doug for his help. You really saved us all a bunch of money. I took several pics and tried to make a simple step by step for other newbies if their trouble ends up being the front diff switch. Like Doug said a great first place to start. You will need ratchets that will fit a 12mm socket for the bolts of the skid plate and a 27mm socket YES 27mm! You more than like likely wont have this. It runs about $8 at Lowe's, just a regular one, NOT the deep socket one. You will also need a multimeter which are very cheap at Lowe's as well or Radio Shack. I borrowed one from a friend.
Step 1 - Remove your front skid plate if you have one. There will be 4 bolts. Here is what it looks like.
http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/796...onepics021.jpg
Step 2 - Locate the front differential switch, it is attached to the front actuator. This is located in front directly behind the oil pan. See pic below.
http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/7...diffsensor.jpg
http://img227.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics010.jpg/
http://img237.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics011.jpg/
http://img338.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics012.jpg/
Step 3- Remove the attached wire from the switch. There is a tab on the wires Grey portion that you simply push down on with your finger and at the same time you pull.
http://img237.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics016.jpg/
http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/5867/dscn5456.jpg
Step 4- Remove the switch. Now with the wire removed, you will need the 27mm socket and 1/2 ratchet to loosen the switch. It is a tight fit like someone here in the forum said but it you attach the socket first and then put the handle of the ratchet up first in the space you will then be able to slip it on the switch and loosen it and then once loosen use your fingers to remove it the rest of the way. You cant loosen it all the way with the ratchet or it will get stuck.
http://img18.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics022.jpg/
http://img130.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics014.jpg/
Step 5 - Test the switch. Get the multimeter and touch both pins with a separate wire from the meter. With the plunger out/ normal you will get no reading. Next push the plunger with your thumb and check reading you should hear a tone or see continuity. If not your switch is bad. Mine was bad. Part number is 84222-35070. See pic below.
http://img227.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics006.jpg/
http://img25.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics004.jpg/
http://img210.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics001.jpg/
http://img196.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics002.jpg/
Notes:
The dealership closet to me wanted $61.24 for it but, I called all the dealerships around and one had it for $49 so they price matched it. Now I have a working 4WD system. Hope this helps.
http://img155.imageshack.us/g/61609iphonepics007.jpg/
God Bless you all,
Rome
Last edited by Romey_d; 04-26-2010 at 06:13 PM.
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kevin_centeno (06-20-2023)
04-27-2010, 10:10 PM
#158
Registered User
Thread Starter
I'm glad you guys were able to fix it for the minimum cost of a simple test and a single part.
Too many times people listen to the dealer and they always claim it's the rear t-case actuator, but most of the time it is a simple switch/sensor that has went bad.
Doug
Too many times people listen to the dealer and they always claim it's the rear t-case actuator, but most of the time it is a simple switch/sensor that has went bad.
Doug
06-03-2010, 02:54 PM
#159
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2010
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Ok, first time post... I have a 2000 4runner limited with about 101k on it and have read all of the posts since the beginning when Doug was having his issue w/ his 4wd. I replaced the front diff switch 84222-35070, no luck. Then the transfer case switch 84222-12010, still no luck. There is one more switch behind the 84222-12010 towards the rear of the vehicle. I'm hoping this is the one, but haven't read that anyone else has replaced that switch and don't know what part number it is either. Does anyone have experience with this switch?
My second issue/question is: when you look at the schematics of the transfer case assembly, the center diff, L4 position, and neutral position switches are not what everyone has been replacing. Right? Plus it looks like they are moredifficult to remove. Has anyone had any luck with these switches?
I really appreciate any response because if I don't fix this by this weekend I'm going to have to bring it to the dealer we bought it from 2 1/2 hrs away for them to look at it. I really hate bring my vehicles to the stealership, don't trust them one bit...
My second issue/question is: when you look at the schematics of the transfer case assembly, the center diff, L4 position, and neutral position switches are not what everyone has been replacing. Right? Plus it looks like they are moredifficult to remove. Has anyone had any luck with these switches?
I really appreciate any response because if I don't fix this by this weekend I'm going to have to bring it to the dealer we bought it from 2 1/2 hrs away for them to look at it. I really hate bring my vehicles to the stealership, don't trust them one bit...
