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4WD won't disengage on 99 4Runner LTD
01-30-2014, 04:23 PM
#341
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Yes, it probably was just a bandaid but I was also upset that the new part was a dud and leaked like it did. The auto parts store counts it as an electronic part and won't take it back...
I actually do have the schematic from my Toyota dealership that they emailed me. I'd post a pic of it as it is exclusively for the '99 Limited models (they looked it up on my VIN) and it shows all the sensor locations and part numbers. But my computer died shortly after I posted the videos. We got a new hybrid laptop/touch screen (my hubby's) but I haven't played with it enough yet for posting pics and videos. I really should because I am sure there are many lurkers for this thread that could use the info on the location and part numbers.
I highly recommend just going to the dealership with your VIN and they can look it up and print it out for you!
FRG
I actually do have the schematic from my Toyota dealership that they emailed me. I'd post a pic of it as it is exclusively for the '99 Limited models (they looked it up on my VIN) and it shows all the sensor locations and part numbers. But my computer died shortly after I posted the videos. We got a new hybrid laptop/touch screen (my hubby's) but I haven't played with it enough yet for posting pics and videos. I really should because I am sure there are many lurkers for this thread that could use the info on the location and part numbers.
I highly recommend just going to the dealership with your VIN and they can look it up and print it out for you!
FRG
02-02-2014, 04:57 PM
#342
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My 2002 4runner started the dreaded dash lights blinking last week during the snowstorm. Thanks to these posts I was able to get it out of 4wd by putting it up on jack stands and tapping the transfer case actuator. I heard the actuator motor spin up and 4wd released. Today I checked the sensors on the transfer case actuator 84222(1) and 84222(2). Number one was bad no continuity on the multi-meter. A quick trip to autozone I picked up duralast ja449 and swapped it in. It went right into 4wd and went out after about 5 blinks. A second try it went in and out no blinking. Thanks for everyone's posts. you guys rock! 
02-05-2014, 07:47 AM
#343
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I've got a 99 4Runner LTD V6 with auto trans and it has the M/M - 4WD style shifter in the transfer case.
One day last week I decided to use the M/M button instead of manually shifting the lever into 4HI, and when I did the 4WD light on the dash blinks. I tried shifting it back into 2HI and the light still blinks all the time. I jacked up the 4Runner on jackstands and it is in fact in 4WD mode and I could feel it when I had to drive on dry pavement with the front end still being engaged in 4WD. One rear tire was spinning and both front tires were spinning for a while, but then it was just the left front and rear tire spinning up in the air.
I jumpered the rear transfer case actuator with 12v on pins 2 & 3 and then reversed the polarity to run the actuator into 4WD and then back into 2WD mode. I did this several times. It worked like it should back and forth without any problems. I decided to put into 2WD mode on the rear actuator and then start up the 4Runner. The light was out and I could tell that I was in 2HI like it should be.
I tested the vacuum lines from the ADD solenoids to the front diff, and they both held 20# of vacuum and did not bleed down. I tested the line from the T to the vacuum canister in the left front wheelwell, and it held vacuum. I tested each line down at the front diff and both lines held 20# of vacuum, but I could not hear the collar in the front diff move either time. I tested the vacuum line from the intake down to the 1 way valve and it held vacuum as well.
Then I tested each ADD solenoid and the brown one had 37 ohms of resistance, and the blue one had 39 ohms of resistance. I read that they are supposed to have 38-45 ohms, so the brown valve is close to being within factory specs.
At this point since I cannot hear the collar move at the front diff actuator, I'm leaning towards it as the culprit or the brown VSV valve.
I swapped out the 4WD computer and it still is doing the same thing.
Here are the pictures;
One day last week I decided to use the M/M button instead of manually shifting the lever into 4HI, and when I did the 4WD light on the dash blinks. I tried shifting it back into 2HI and the light still blinks all the time. I jacked up the 4Runner on jackstands and it is in fact in 4WD mode and I could feel it when I had to drive on dry pavement with the front end still being engaged in 4WD. One rear tire was spinning and both front tires were spinning for a while, but then it was just the left front and rear tire spinning up in the air.
I jumpered the rear transfer case actuator with 12v on pins 2 & 3 and then reversed the polarity to run the actuator into 4WD and then back into 2WD mode. I did this several times. It worked like it should back and forth without any problems. I decided to put into 2WD mode on the rear actuator and then start up the 4Runner. The light was out and I could tell that I was in 2HI like it should be.
I tested the vacuum lines from the ADD solenoids to the front diff, and they both held 20# of vacuum and did not bleed down. I tested the line from the T to the vacuum canister in the left front wheelwell, and it held vacuum. I tested each line down at the front diff and both lines held 20# of vacuum, but I could not hear the collar in the front diff move either time. I tested the vacuum line from the intake down to the 1 way valve and it held vacuum as well.
Then I tested each ADD solenoid and the brown one had 37 ohms of resistance, and the blue one had 39 ohms of resistance. I read that they are supposed to have 38-45 ohms, so the brown valve is close to being within factory specs.
At this point since I cannot hear the collar move at the front diff actuator, I'm leaning towards it as the culprit or the brown VSV valve.
I swapped out the 4WD computer and it still is doing the same thing.
Here are the pictures;
I am so very appreciative for all your work and research. The same thing has been going on with my 99 4runner LTD for over 6 years. I would just continue to drive until finally it would come out. A friend found this forum and we did exactly as you said.
We were first able to get the 4wd disengaged by putting the car up on stands, then using a battery charger we triggered the leads as directed in the main t-case.
I tried just cleaning the front diff sensor and reinstalling, but it was too far gone. I called all around to almost every Toyota and parts store in the Phoenix valley, before finding the part in stock at Toyota Tempe. Auto nation I think. We installed the part, and my 4wd has never worked better, literally.
Just wanted to say a big thanks!
Andy
Last edited by Mr. Rogers; 02-05-2014 at 07:49 AM.
02-05-2014, 08:22 AM
#344
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Yes, it probably was just a bandaid but I was also upset that the new part was a dud and leaked like it did. The auto parts store counts it as an electronic part and won't take it back...
I actually do have the schematic from my Toyota dealership that they emailed me. I'd post a pic of it as it is exclusively for the '99 Limited models (they looked it up on my VIN) and it shows all the sensor locations and part numbers. But my computer died shortly after I posted the videos. We got a new hybrid laptop/touch screen (my hubby's) but I haven't played with it enough yet for posting pics and videos. I really should because I am sure there are many lurkers for this thread that could use the info on the location and part numbers.
I highly recommend just going to the dealership with your VIN and they can look it up and print it out for you!
FRG
I actually do have the schematic from my Toyota dealership that they emailed me. I'd post a pic of it as it is exclusively for the '99 Limited models (they looked it up on my VIN) and it shows all the sensor locations and part numbers. But my computer died shortly after I posted the videos. We got a new hybrid laptop/touch screen (my hubby's) but I haven't played with it enough yet for posting pics and videos. I really should because I am sure there are many lurkers for this thread that could use the info on the location and part numbers.
I highly recommend just going to the dealership with your VIN and they can look it up and print it out for you!
FRG
FunRunnerGal,
I was also very appreciative for your youtube video of how easy it was to exchange the Front Diff Sensor.
I was reading through and saw your woes still continue. I am just wondering if you replance the front diff sensor with a genuine Toyota part, if it will fix the problem. I spent around $60.00 for the part after tax, and I too had my concerns that I may be wasteing my $$ since I don't have the resources to keep throwing money at the problem. But the part from Toyota # 84222-35070, worked awsomely. I too attempted to get a part from another parts store to save some money, but nobody had it in stock. If the part didn't even fit right and caused the fluid to leak out, I also question that it will actually work properly. Just a thought.
I have 265,000+ on my 99 4runner and love it. This is the only problem I have had with it. Oh, also the "check engine" light telling me to replace the Cataletic Converter. My 4runner looks exactly like yours, color and everything.
Anyway, thanks for the video and I hope you are able to track down the problem.
Andy
Last edited by Mr. Rogers; 02-05-2014 at 08:34 AM.
02-09-2014, 02:17 AM
#345
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First of all thanks to the person who started the thread and originally did all the work and figured out what the issue was with the front diff sensor!
Second thanks to the people who took the time to share and confirm it really works!
Third thanks to all the folks who took the time to post pictures!
Fourth thanks to the people who said you could use M.E.K. or contact cleaner to just clean and re-use the part for the cheapest fix
I was going to just go buy the part from NAPA, but I didn't have the original Toyota part number with me, and I tried to find this thread on my smartphone and the guy at the counter tried to look it up too on their computer but no avail. So I just said to heck with it and picked up some QD Electronic Cleaner spray that was a NAPA brand for like $8.99. They also had the 27mm socket there for $6.99.
I'd just like to say do not be intimidated about giving this a try. Honestly all will happen is you will get a bit dirty. You will not hurt your vehicle trying it!
I am a woman and have done some mechanic work. My father made dang sure I could do basics like flat tire repair and when I was 16 and my mustang broke down he refused to help me. Made me get a repair manual and I replaced BY MYSELF my water pump, the radiator, and the master cylinder. I also had to bleed and pump the lines alone using a cinder block! It can be done! I also have a scary memory of putting in a new brake light switch which is no small feat as I was upside down with my head under the brake pedal and that was a fun time...
Anyways I can say I guess I am not the average woman but it has been over 2 decades since my "mechanic" days but again thanks to everyone here for the concise sharing of info and details as I was not afraid to give it a try.
The best part? It actually worked! My 4WD sensor (at least so far) is not going on and off by itself anymore with the blinking blinking blinking that was aggravating! Plus now the 4 wheels on the dash sensor light up green immediately and it is very responsive!
I am uploading now to youtube a video series about it as when I first tried to seach youtube there are NO videos that I could find abou this issue or even for 4WD on these models either. I don't know how to edit so there is a total of 4 videos but maybe those will be helpful to others
Thanks again so much everyone! I joined the forum just to post and share my success on this to keep the thread going and say it is still a relevant issue for people and that the fix does seem to work.
A side note about the "stealerships" as I love to also use that term:
Well perhaps a belated intro: My 4Runner is a 1999 Limited that I got used from a Toyota dealership. Had close to 155,XXX miles on it so I knew it was used but I WANTED the '99 from all I learned here and on some other 4Runner sites. Last year made in Japan, higher ground clearance, wanted the Limited for the leather, the rear diff, the moon roof. Well... the freakin' moonroof leaks
Oh well, it's a 14 year old vehicle. The rest is in excellent condition, carfax clean NO accidents, etc. It wasn't a deal killer for me. Well at the dealership parts & service they quote me $740 for a new sunroof! That is just for the window. Not even the track mechanism. This was after their "mobile leak" guy had me come out to meet him there only to tell me the window is leaking (ya, knew that one) and the gutters/drains work fine (ya knew that too as I did my own diagnostic). So I hear 2 different stories from the dealership: Yes we can install it here. We have to take the headliner out and it is a big deal (that one AFTER THEIR LEAK GUY told me it just pops out from the top by 4 screws!), the other was NO we don't do it here. They said Safelite does them. Well NO THEY DON'T. I called them.
The silver lining is that I called around, I can get a reconditioned one for under $300, and a guy who does them will install it for $60 and he confirmed it is just a matter of the 4 screws and popping the window out. My long rambling point to this entire post is do not listen to "the experts" first all the time. It never hurts to look something up on the internet or ask a question on a forum or make a few phone calls. I was sooo peeved that the dealership was going to charge me so much for the same part I can get for less than half- plus I have ZERO confidence in them now since one guy tells me they can do it there and have to dismantle my interior and another guy says no, you have to go to XYZ and that company says no also! I mean I really do believe every post here where people said they were quoted $2,000 for this easy peasy fix!
I will come back and post here the links to my youtube videos once I get them loaded...
FunRunnerGal
Second thanks to the people who took the time to share and confirm it really works!
Third thanks to all the folks who took the time to post pictures!
Fourth thanks to the people who said you could use M.E.K. or contact cleaner to just clean and re-use the part for the cheapest fix
I was going to just go buy the part from NAPA, but I didn't have the original Toyota part number with me, and I tried to find this thread on my smartphone and the guy at the counter tried to look it up too on their computer but no avail. So I just said to heck with it and picked up some QD Electronic Cleaner spray that was a NAPA brand for like $8.99. They also had the 27mm socket there for $6.99.
I'd just like to say do not be intimidated about giving this a try. Honestly all will happen is you will get a bit dirty. You will not hurt your vehicle trying it!
I am a woman and have done some mechanic work. My father made dang sure I could do basics like flat tire repair and when I was 16 and my mustang broke down he refused to help me. Made me get a repair manual and I replaced BY MYSELF my water pump, the radiator, and the master cylinder. I also had to bleed and pump the lines alone using a cinder block! It can be done! I also have a scary memory of putting in a new brake light switch which is no small feat as I was upside down with my head under the brake pedal and that was a fun time...
Anyways I can say I guess I am not the average woman but it has been over 2 decades since my "mechanic" days but again thanks to everyone here for the concise sharing of info and details as I was not afraid to give it a try.
The best part? It actually worked! My 4WD sensor (at least so far) is not going on and off by itself anymore with the blinking blinking blinking that was aggravating! Plus now the 4 wheels on the dash sensor light up green immediately and it is very responsive!
I am uploading now to youtube a video series about it as when I first tried to seach youtube there are NO videos that I could find abou this issue or even for 4WD on these models either. I don't know how to edit so there is a total of 4 videos but maybe those will be helpful to others
Thanks again so much everyone! I joined the forum just to post and share my success on this to keep the thread going and say it is still a relevant issue for people and that the fix does seem to work.
A side note about the "stealerships" as I love to also use that term:
Well perhaps a belated intro: My 4Runner is a 1999 Limited that I got used from a Toyota dealership. Had close to 155,XXX miles on it so I knew it was used but I WANTED the '99 from all I learned here and on some other 4Runner sites. Last year made in Japan, higher ground clearance, wanted the Limited for the leather, the rear diff, the moon roof. Well... the freakin' moonroof leaks
Oh well, it's a 14 year old vehicle. The rest is in excellent condition, carfax clean NO accidents, etc. It wasn't a deal killer for me. Well at the dealership parts & service they quote me $740 for a new sunroof! That is just for the window. Not even the track mechanism. This was after their "mobile leak" guy had me come out to meet him there only to tell me the window is leaking (ya, knew that one) and the gutters/drains work fine (ya knew that too as I did my own diagnostic). So I hear 2 different stories from the dealership: Yes we can install it here. We have to take the headliner out and it is a big deal (that one AFTER THEIR LEAK GUY told me it just pops out from the top by 4 screws!), the other was NO we don't do it here. They said Safelite does them. Well NO THEY DON'T. I called them.
The silver lining is that I called around, I can get a reconditioned one for under $300, and a guy who does them will install it for $60 and he confirmed it is just a matter of the 4 screws and popping the window out. My long rambling point to this entire post is do not listen to "the experts" first all the time. It never hurts to look something up on the internet or ask a question on a forum or make a few phone calls. I was sooo peeved that the dealership was going to charge me so much for the same part I can get for less than half- plus I have ZERO confidence in them now since one guy tells me they can do it there and have to dismantle my interior and another guy says no, you have to go to XYZ and that company says no also! I mean I really do believe every post here where people said they were quoted $2,000 for this easy peasy fix!
I will come back and post here the links to my youtube videos once I get them loaded...
FunRunnerGal
I have to say, A HUGE +1 for researching and working on your own rig as a female!! Nothing more satisfying as a male to know your girl can hang with the best of them.. Proud Husband you must have
Thank God, I don't have any problems with my 4wd/AWD/MM on my '00 Limited, but I just watched your youtube vids and will definitely save them for future reference.
02-12-2014, 05:27 PM
#346
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Add me to the list of thankful patrons of this site. Following these instructions I replaced the front diff sensor on my 99 LTD, but no joy. Replaced one of the sensors on the back of the transfer case and it clunked out of 4WD for the first time in a week the moment I fired it up.
This has been an intermittent issue for me for at least 5 years.
Who knows how much money you've saved all of us.
We all owe Doug $5.
Jakin
This has been an intermittent issue for me for at least 5 years.
Who knows how much money you've saved all of us.
We all owe Doug $5.
Jakin
02-18-2014, 05:12 PM
#347
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Thread Starter
I'm happy to know that fellow members here are still able to fix their 4wd issues with help from my thread here. Even though I don't have my 99 LTD any longer, I still browse this thread and offer any input I can to help.
My newest Toyota to me that I traded my lifted 78 Chevy Silverado 3/4 4x4 camper special for, is a 7" lifted 91 Toyota ext-cab SR5 4x4 with a '75 Chevy 350 V8, Toyota 5 speed trans, 4.56 gears, Yukon Grizzly locker rear, Lock-rite locker front, riding on 36" Irok Super Swamper radials on Mickey Thompson Classic II 10" wheels.
My newest Toyota to me that I traded my lifted 78 Chevy Silverado 3/4 4x4 camper special for, is a 7" lifted 91 Toyota ext-cab SR5 4x4 with a '75 Chevy 350 V8, Toyota 5 speed trans, 4.56 gears, Yukon Grizzly locker rear, Lock-rite locker front, riding on 36" Irok Super Swamper radials on Mickey Thompson Classic II 10" wheels.
02-20-2014, 06:13 AM
#348
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Some guys on another forum cross referenced these parts [ switches 84222 (1) and 84222 (2)]. Thought you guys might like to save a few bucks!
http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...10-switch.html
here they are:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,4240
I chose the Beck/Arnley ones for $16.00 versus OEM which is around $60.00 a pop. Pretty easy choice!
http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...10-switch.html
here they are:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,4240
I chose the Beck/Arnley ones for $16.00 versus OEM which is around $60.00 a pop. Pretty easy choice!
02-20-2014, 08:10 AM
#349
Registered User
While all these switches are the same mechanically, they have a variety of electrical connections, some with pigtails and some right on the switch--like this one.
On old 80-series LandCruisers, which is what the Ih8mud guy is talking about, 84222-12010 is used in several places on the TC. Does not apply to your 2002 4Runner. Sorry.
I just bought one from NAPA as the back-up light on my '99 5-speed so I have just researched this thoroughly. Unfortunately, I have not found any of the other switches in aftermarket versions. The reason is this one is the back-up light switch for a long list of Toyotas and is much more common than the other TC switches that are in very limited production by comparison.
EDIT: In fact, if you look at this post, that guy admits he got it wrong...https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/4...l#post51846640
I could have told him that.
Last edited by TheDurk; 02-20-2014 at 09:24 AM.
03-01-2014, 03:08 PM
#350
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Wow, many thanks to all the posters on this thread!
I had the same problem as everyone - clicked the 4wd button and my 1999 4Runner Ltd was stuck in limbo between 4wd and 2wd.
I replaced part 84222-12010 and it fixed the problem.
Bought this switch on amazon prime for $29:
I wanted to share something that I messed up on that may be obvious to those who work on their car a lot. The skid plate is two parts, connected by two screws in the middle. When the instructions say to remove the skid plate, don't remove those screws, make sure you remove the 3 in the front of the car, and the 2 at the back of the skid plate (around the middle of the car). I ended up looking for the switch for way too long and getting frustrated because I couldn't find it.
I also made a mistake with the socket, that cost me a couple extra bucks. The socket I bought was a 1/2" drive, but I only had a 3/8" ratchet, so I bought an extender that allowed me to use the 27mm socket. The space you're working in is VERY tight, and will not fit. I had to buy a 1/2" ratchet too, which was $25 or so.
All in all, I spent $30 on the switch, ~$40 on the 27mm socket combo/mistake, and a couple hours fixing it. Very much worth it!
I would be happy to answer any questions if asked.
Thanks again everyone!
I had the same problem as everyone - clicked the 4wd button and my 1999 4Runner Ltd was stuck in limbo between 4wd and 2wd.
I replaced part 84222-12010 and it fixed the problem.
Bought this switch on amazon prime for $29:
I wanted to share something that I messed up on that may be obvious to those who work on their car a lot. The skid plate is two parts, connected by two screws in the middle. When the instructions say to remove the skid plate, don't remove those screws, make sure you remove the 3 in the front of the car, and the 2 at the back of the skid plate (around the middle of the car). I ended up looking for the switch for way too long and getting frustrated because I couldn't find it.
I also made a mistake with the socket, that cost me a couple extra bucks. The socket I bought was a 1/2" drive, but I only had a 3/8" ratchet, so I bought an extender that allowed me to use the 27mm socket. The space you're working in is VERY tight, and will not fit. I had to buy a 1/2" ratchet too, which was $25 or so.
All in all, I spent $30 on the switch, ~$40 on the 27mm socket combo/mistake, and a couple hours fixing it. Very much worth it!
I would be happy to answer any questions if asked.
Thanks again everyone!
03-19-2014, 08:27 AM
#351
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Hi all! I am still here and check the thread time to time. Thanks guys for the positivity! I really am glad everyone seems to be (at least the majority) getting this issue solved.
I am going to get an actual Toyota part based off the advise here and not another cheaper one from Auto zone and see if that will fix it for once and all. Seems my issues with the blinking is back to doing it more than ever even though for a minute or two it was looking like it was fixed...
Oh well, just another excuse to keep tinkering around with it a bit.
I will try the skid plate advice too about dropping them in one big piece instead of the two. When I removed the one that just covers the sensor it went back up and on with no problems- twice! But... when I took off the bigger one in the front so I could get to the front differential and check/refill the transfer case fluid I couldn't seem to get it lined back up to get the other skid plate back on. The front one did fine but the "original" one that I had dropped and put back on twice just didn't seem to line up right. So for now it has been off. But I will try dropping the front most skid plate and assemble them together on the ground first them put them back up in one big piece. I am sure I will need assistance for that as just one alone is about all I can manage being squeezed under the rig which I do just from the shop floor and not having it up on jacks or blocks or something.
FRG
I am going to get an actual Toyota part based off the advise here and not another cheaper one from Auto zone and see if that will fix it for once and all. Seems my issues with the blinking is back to doing it more than ever even though for a minute or two it was looking like it was fixed...
Oh well, just another excuse to keep tinkering around with it a bit.
I will try the skid plate advice too about dropping them in one big piece instead of the two. When I removed the one that just covers the sensor it went back up and on with no problems- twice! But... when I took off the bigger one in the front so I could get to the front differential and check/refill the transfer case fluid I couldn't seem to get it lined back up to get the other skid plate back on. The front one did fine but the "original" one that I had dropped and put back on twice just didn't seem to line up right. So for now it has been off. But I will try dropping the front most skid plate and assemble them together on the ground first them put them back up in one big piece. I am sure I will need assistance for that as just one alone is about all I can manage being squeezed under the rig which I do just from the shop floor and not having it up on jacks or blocks or something.
FRG
04-29-2014, 12:48 PM
#352
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4WD engaging/disengaging problems
Hi all, what an insanely long but massively informative thread. I started having problems with my 99 Surf last week and after a bit of searching found this forum, read the thread from page 1, got lots of info for checking stuff, did checks, thought i'd fixed it, hadn't, so i've signed up to ask some wise people opinions.
Here's the rundown, see what you think:
I live in Mozambique (so no real mechanics) and had my '99 2.7l Surf auto shipped from a dealer in Japan. 160000kms on the clock. Car looks and feels in pristine condition all round.
Done around 15000kms in it through southern africa, not really using the 4x4 but engaging it now and again and no problems, AWD worked, centre diff engaging no probs, low range no probs.
Vehicle was out of my hands for a few days with friends and came back stuck in 4wd with the dash indicator flashing constantly. It had done a bit of beach driving and through salt water (inevitable where we are), but friends couldnt disengage 4wd afterwards. After reading all the posts here about engaging/disengaging and constantly flashing dash indicators, i have worked through as much as I can on the vehicle:
All vacuum hoses complete and not leaking
Both VSV's operating.
Removed and checked continuity of all sensors (front diff, TC, TC actuator), all good.
Manually vacuum tested front diff actuator, all good.
Applied 12V to appropriate pins on TC actuator, front shaft engaged and disengaged, so assume motor all good there.
After putting all those connectors back together, everything seemed to revert to normal - 4wd button engaged speedily, centre diff engaged nice and smooth, and low range worked.
Next morning, on some sandy roads, i start going through the 4wd options to check alls ok and suddenly the normal auto gears dont want to engage, no D or R and when i shift back in P, the horrible grinding sound you get with not enough clutch on a manual. Managed to engage D again after a bit of fiddling, but now i've got the perma-blink from the 4wd dash indicator again. I can feel drive to the front wheels but centre diff wont engage.
My worry is now, what i thought was a sensor/ADD or at worst a TC actuator problem, has turned into a nasty transmission problem. Why the grinding/not wanting to find gears? Could it be the TC actuator all gunked up like i've seen some people have? Could the salt build up from the sea water (they didnt wash down for a couple of days!) have shorted something/or got into breather hose for TC actuator?
Any thoughts gurus?
Here's the rundown, see what you think:
I live in Mozambique (so no real mechanics) and had my '99 2.7l Surf auto shipped from a dealer in Japan. 160000kms on the clock. Car looks and feels in pristine condition all round.
Done around 15000kms in it through southern africa, not really using the 4x4 but engaging it now and again and no problems, AWD worked, centre diff engaging no probs, low range no probs.
Vehicle was out of my hands for a few days with friends and came back stuck in 4wd with the dash indicator flashing constantly. It had done a bit of beach driving and through salt water (inevitable where we are), but friends couldnt disengage 4wd afterwards. After reading all the posts here about engaging/disengaging and constantly flashing dash indicators, i have worked through as much as I can on the vehicle:
All vacuum hoses complete and not leaking
Both VSV's operating.
Removed and checked continuity of all sensors (front diff, TC, TC actuator), all good.
Manually vacuum tested front diff actuator, all good.
Applied 12V to appropriate pins on TC actuator, front shaft engaged and disengaged, so assume motor all good there.
After putting all those connectors back together, everything seemed to revert to normal - 4wd button engaged speedily, centre diff engaged nice and smooth, and low range worked.
Next morning, on some sandy roads, i start going through the 4wd options to check alls ok and suddenly the normal auto gears dont want to engage, no D or R and when i shift back in P, the horrible grinding sound you get with not enough clutch on a manual. Managed to engage D again after a bit of fiddling, but now i've got the perma-blink from the 4wd dash indicator again. I can feel drive to the front wheels but centre diff wont engage.
My worry is now, what i thought was a sensor/ADD or at worst a TC actuator problem, has turned into a nasty transmission problem. Why the grinding/not wanting to find gears? Could it be the TC actuator all gunked up like i've seen some people have? Could the salt build up from the sea water (they didnt wash down for a couple of days!) have shorted something/or got into breather hose for TC actuator?
Any thoughts gurus?
04-29-2014, 01:07 PM
#353
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You have the blinking light light on permanently:
a) when you are in 4wd
b) all the time no matter 2wd or 4wd.
Sorry, can't tell from your post and it makes a difference.
Were you moving at all when you went in to P? The only way I can think of to grind when shifting into P is the parking pawl. If so, just concentrate on the light and don't worry about the grinding unless it happens again, and don't go into P unless at full stop.
Do the same trouble-shooting you did before, as it sounds like something that was working isn't working any more. Salt water is nasty stuff.
I have never worked on the multi-mode, though, so maybe I'm missing something. I'm a 5-speed guy.
a) when you are in 4wd
b) all the time no matter 2wd or 4wd.
Sorry, can't tell from your post and it makes a difference.
Were you moving at all when you went in to P? The only way I can think of to grind when shifting into P is the parking pawl. If so, just concentrate on the light and don't worry about the grinding unless it happens again, and don't go into P unless at full stop.
Do the same trouble-shooting you did before, as it sounds like something that was working isn't working any more. Salt water is nasty stuff.
I have never worked on the multi-mode, though, so maybe I'm missing something. I'm a 5-speed guy.
Last edited by TheDurk; 04-29-2014 at 01:10 PM.
04-29-2014, 01:27 PM
#354
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I've got the blinking light when my controls say i'm in 2WD, when I press the 4WD button, the orange centre diff light disappears and the 4 green tyres stay solid. So the flashing in 2WD is showing a fault, but when i press the button the indicators lights behave as they should. Right??
This is different from the original flashing light syndrome i was getting before i pulled the sensors and jumpered the TC actuator, when it just flashed regardless of what i did with the controls. This is leading me to think that the front diff/actuator and everything that end basically, is ok. The problem is somewhere on the TC....?
The grinding when trying to go into Park happened when I was at standstill. Its happened on a couple of occasions nnow where i couldnt get a gear and had to flick between gears to try and get something to stick. Switching off engine and back on solved it last time. Electrical problem?
This is different from the original flashing light syndrome i was getting before i pulled the sensors and jumpered the TC actuator, when it just flashed regardless of what i did with the controls. This is leading me to think that the front diff/actuator and everything that end basically, is ok. The problem is somewhere on the TC....?
The grinding when trying to go into Park happened when I was at standstill. Its happened on a couple of occasions nnow where i couldnt get a gear and had to flick between gears to try and get something to stick. Switching off engine and back on solved it last time. Electrical problem?
04-29-2014, 04:15 PM
#355
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I've got the blinking light when my controls say i'm in 2WD, when I press the 4WD button, the orange centre diff light disappears and the 4 green tyres stay solid. So the flashing in 2WD is showing a fault, but when i press the button the indicators lights behave as they should. Right??
This is different from the original flashing light syndrome i was getting before i pulled the sensors and jumpered the TC actuator, when it just flashed regardless of what i did with the controls. This is leading me to think that the front diff/actuator and everything that end basically, is ok. The problem is somewhere on the TC....?
The grinding when trying to go into Park happened when I was at standstill. Its happened on a couple of occasions nnow where i couldnt get a gear and had to flick between gears to try and get something to stick. Switching off engine and back on solved it last time. Electrical problem?
This is different from the original flashing light syndrome i was getting before i pulled the sensors and jumpered the TC actuator, when it just flashed regardless of what i did with the controls. This is leading me to think that the front diff/actuator and everything that end basically, is ok. The problem is somewhere on the TC....?
The grinding when trying to go into Park happened when I was at standstill. Its happened on a couple of occasions nnow where i couldnt get a gear and had to flick between gears to try and get something to stick. Switching off engine and back on solved it last time. Electrical problem?
I don't know how to fix it but mine about 3 times now has done the grind thing when I tried to put it into park. Twice I lost any power to the wheels but the engine revved. This was while driving down the road in 2WD and then trying to push the shift on the fly M/M button to get it into 4WD. I basically was in neutral and when I tried to pull over and put it into park it grinded like what you described. Once I just kept fiddling with it and eventually got it to go into drive again and regain power. The second time I just turned off the ignition and turned it back on and had control and power.
If you notice on your automatic shifter, up in the left corner on the frame that goes around it is a little black plastic cover. You can pop that off and use a flat head screw driver to basically unfreeze the engine if it gets stuck in a gear. At least that is what I think it is for and it is something that is usually only done at a mechanic/dealership if the transmission locks up.
I still have the perpetual blink blink blink and not able to get it to engage into 4WD but so far it doesn't interfere with the regular operation and 2WD. I haven't the time or funds to get another sensor but hoping to soon. I am bummed that I got a vehicle that I can't use 4WD in. I could have paid $3000 less for the 2WD only...
FRG
04-30-2014, 12:08 AM
#356
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I don't know how to fix it but mine about 3 times now has done the grind thing when I tried to put it into park. Twice I lost any power to the wheels but the engine revved. This was while driving down the road in 2WD and then trying to push the shift on the fly M/M button to get it into 4WD. I basically was in neutral and when I tried to pull over and put it into park it grinded like what you described. Once I just kept fiddling with it and eventually got it to go into drive again and regain power. The second time I just turned off the ignition and turned it back on and had control and power.
If you notice on your automatic shifter, up in the left corner on the frame that goes around it is a little black plastic cover. You can pop that off and use a flat head screw driver to basically unfreeze the engine if it gets stuck in a gear. At least that is what I think it is for and it is something that is usually only done at a mechanic/dealership if the transmission locks up.
I still have the perpetual blink blink blink and not able to get it to engage into 4WD but so far it doesn't interfere with the regular operation and 2WD. I haven't the time or funds to get another sensor but hoping to soon. I am bummed that I got a vehicle that I can't use 4WD in. I could have paid $3000 less for the 2WD only...
FRG
If you notice on your automatic shifter, up in the left corner on the frame that goes around it is a little black plastic cover. You can pop that off and use a flat head screw driver to basically unfreeze the engine if it gets stuck in a gear. At least that is what I think it is for and it is something that is usually only done at a mechanic/dealership if the transmission locks up.
I still have the perpetual blink blink blink and not able to get it to engage into 4WD but so far it doesn't interfere with the regular operation and 2WD. I haven't the time or funds to get another sensor but hoping to soon. I am bummed that I got a vehicle that I can't use 4WD in. I could have paid $3000 less for the 2WD only...
FRG
04-30-2014, 12:03 PM
#357
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So I removed the cap from the motor on the TC actuator to have a look under and the thing was pristine, no gunk, build up, and the magnets were held tight in place.
Next thought was to have a look under the plate with the 3 10mm screws. I've been a bit hesitant to do this as I couldn't find definitive info on what exactly will happen when i remove that plate whilst the actuator is still attached to the TC under the truck, given that the plate is facing slightly downwards and i'm fearful of gravity taking hold (I live on a beach and i've learnt the hard way that screws etc dont mix with sand). Can anybody tell me if I can remove the plate, have a good look, and put it back on without anything springing out of place?
Another interesting symptom which I've noted twice now, and I dont know whether anybody else has experienced a similar thing, is that when I removed the 3 electrical connectors attached to the actuator and jumpered the motor (bear in mind I was stuck in 4wd, front prop not freely turning) I could not get the actuator to free up the front prop. So I put it all back together. Took it for a spin, and I was able to disengage/engage 4HL no problem! No idea whats going on. It sounded like the actuator would not let me disengage fully when 12v was applied direct to the pins. The motor would go a bit and then grind to a stop before completing its job. Reverse the polarity and the motor whirred as normal and transmission clunked accordingly into 4wd. For the rest of the day I've been out and about engaging/disengaging 4HL with no problems. I have not tried the M/M button again as this seems to be what's causing problems, the dash indicator perma-blinking and losing any normal gears. Sound like my actuator is dying a slow death? Could I have internal damage in the transfer case?
Which leads me to my next question. What would be the effect of disconnecting the M/M button? Could I still engage 4HL or is the connection from the M/M button made anyway elsewhere on the transfer case when you pull back on the 4HL lever?
Reason I ask is that I get the feeling that pressing the M/M button seems to cause problems whereas engaging 4HL doesn't and as I'm not the only person driving my truck I don't want someone inadvertently knocking the M/M button somewhere in the dunes, losing transmission and not know how to get it back.
Anybody tried simplifying their system to remove M/M?
Thanks
Next thought was to have a look under the plate with the 3 10mm screws. I've been a bit hesitant to do this as I couldn't find definitive info on what exactly will happen when i remove that plate whilst the actuator is still attached to the TC under the truck, given that the plate is facing slightly downwards and i'm fearful of gravity taking hold (I live on a beach and i've learnt the hard way that screws etc dont mix with sand). Can anybody tell me if I can remove the plate, have a good look, and put it back on without anything springing out of place?
Another interesting symptom which I've noted twice now, and I dont know whether anybody else has experienced a similar thing, is that when I removed the 3 electrical connectors attached to the actuator and jumpered the motor (bear in mind I was stuck in 4wd, front prop not freely turning) I could not get the actuator to free up the front prop. So I put it all back together. Took it for a spin, and I was able to disengage/engage 4HL no problem! No idea whats going on. It sounded like the actuator would not let me disengage fully when 12v was applied direct to the pins. The motor would go a bit and then grind to a stop before completing its job. Reverse the polarity and the motor whirred as normal and transmission clunked accordingly into 4wd. For the rest of the day I've been out and about engaging/disengaging 4HL with no problems. I have not tried the M/M button again as this seems to be what's causing problems, the dash indicator perma-blinking and losing any normal gears. Sound like my actuator is dying a slow death? Could I have internal damage in the transfer case?
Which leads me to my next question. What would be the effect of disconnecting the M/M button? Could I still engage 4HL or is the connection from the M/M button made anyway elsewhere on the transfer case when you pull back on the 4HL lever?
Reason I ask is that I get the feeling that pressing the M/M button seems to cause problems whereas engaging 4HL doesn't and as I'm not the only person driving my truck I don't want someone inadvertently knocking the M/M button somewhere in the dunes, losing transmission and not know how to get it back.
Anybody tried simplifying their system to remove M/M?
Thanks
05-18-2014, 01:35 AM
#358
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Just an update on the permablink 4WD indicator on my symptomatic Surf.
I've taken a break from troubleshooting the problem with the 4WD, but went ahead and disconnected the M/M button by popping it out of its housing in the transfer lever and cutting one of the wires leading to it.
Its not an ideal fix obviously as I've lost my AWD option, but I still have perfectly functioning 4HL and 4L. A small sacrifice really as I usually only need 4 wheels in thick sand so i'd use 4HL over the M/M anyway.
Perhaps someone out there can narrow down the things to look at testing given that i've disconnected the M/M button but the front wheels still lock/unlock quickly when engaging 4HL.
An afterthought. I had got stuck on thinking the transfer case actuator was the problem as i'd tested all VSV's and sensor switches. Could a TC oil change make a difference to a slow changing and grindy transfer??
Thanks guys
I've taken a break from troubleshooting the problem with the 4WD, but went ahead and disconnected the M/M button by popping it out of its housing in the transfer lever and cutting one of the wires leading to it.
Its not an ideal fix obviously as I've lost my AWD option, but I still have perfectly functioning 4HL and 4L. A small sacrifice really as I usually only need 4 wheels in thick sand so i'd use 4HL over the M/M anyway.
Perhaps someone out there can narrow down the things to look at testing given that i've disconnected the M/M button but the front wheels still lock/unlock quickly when engaging 4HL.
An afterthought. I had got stuck on thinking the transfer case actuator was the problem as i'd tested all VSV's and sensor switches. Could a TC oil change make a difference to a slow changing and grindy transfer??
Thanks guys
07-13-2014, 08:56 AM
#359
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Ok I just bought a 1998 4runner 3.4 Limited. Most of these posts have been 99+ but I am having "similar" issues. 4wd seems to be stuck in limbo. Sometimes the light flashes, but usually not. The 4wd button will drive the electric motor on the transfer case and engage/disengage that, but the 4wd overall will not engage/disengage with any sort of regularity.
My worst problem from this is that something seems to be stuck in limbo and I am getting a clunking under the car that turns to a shaking at higher speeds. It sounds like it is in the transfer case, but I can't tell.
I am getting a new sensor 35070 (oreillys comparable) tomorrow and a 27mm socket. My thought is to replace the front diff sensor, then check the others if that doesn't work.
If anyone else has had clunking like mine, I'd appreciate your thoughts. The TC actuator seems to be working fine with the electric motor, so I can't think of what is causing the clunking in the TC, unless it is one of the TC sensors preventing the actuator from working all the way.
Thanks, and cheers!
My worst problem from this is that something seems to be stuck in limbo and I am getting a clunking under the car that turns to a shaking at higher speeds. It sounds like it is in the transfer case, but I can't tell.
I am getting a new sensor 35070 (oreillys comparable) tomorrow and a 27mm socket. My thought is to replace the front diff sensor, then check the others if that doesn't work.
If anyone else has had clunking like mine, I'd appreciate your thoughts. The TC actuator seems to be working fine with the electric motor, so I can't think of what is causing the clunking in the TC, unless it is one of the TC sensors preventing the actuator from working all the way.
Thanks, and cheers!
08-11-2014, 08:29 AM
#360
Registered User
Update: From time to time, I would still get the blinking lights after fixing the initial problem (stuck in 4wd). So I replaced the t/c fluid before last winter and now it shifts into 4wd like butter. Just a reminder to change that oil!!
