khann

Thats really cool Rock Slide - in my case actuator has borken wheel inside - imposible to fix it. Enjoy ride

Rock Slide

iTrader: (1)

I hate to hear that khann.

Even though my tcase failed at the actuator too...just glad it was on the external side and not internal as yours. Although, swapping out tcases isn't that hard of a job. Had mine been an internal actuator problem, I would have just done a tcase swap. A few local toy yards near me have used tcases w/ low mileage. You can most often find used tcases between $250 - $500. Have you looked into just replacing your tcase w/ a used one? Much cheaper than replacing just the actuator itself.

HHH356

This seems to be the right place but am not sure what to do next.

I'm trying to fix the 4wd on my 04 tacoma extended cab 3.4l. Last winter I went to engage H4. The light came on steady it just was not driving the front wheels. Then whenever I started the truck the 4wd light would be on no matter what position the switch or lever. Then I would have to restart the truck or press the clutch cancel button or quickly go from run to off and back. That would kick the system back to normal with no 4wd light. If I put the truck into 4L low would be engaged but the front wheels would still not drive. Also when driving if I tried to go to 4H while driving the light may or may not come on. If it came on it would not go out and lightbor not no front wheel drive.

So i did the thing and took it to the local stealer. The told me it was the front diff actuator at the reasonable price of $1700. Yea right!!! So I went online and got the part and put it in myself. Easy 2 hour job. No leaks everything looked good. So I fired up the truck. Still no 4wd.

On the up side the 4wd light no longer comes on for no reason. I can push the 4h button with one hand and feel the actuator moving on the T-case. I didnt have a helper to check the front so I unplugged the tcase acctuator to hear jut the front. But when I push the button I get no noise but the 4wd light flashes. I am guessing that is because I had unplugged the acctuator. So I am looking for advice where to go from here. I never had it stuck in 4wd so i am not sure if it is a switch or the 4wd computer. Any advice would be welcome. Thanks in advance.

jfryjfry

start checking switches. easy to check.

HHH356

Are there any switches on the front diff in the 04 or only on the T-Case.

sap014runner

LOOK WHAT I FOUND ON ANOTHER (usually not good) SITE: Is this for real? Is it that simple?

It's not a fuse that is your problem. It is a switch that needs to be changed. I have a 99 Toyota 4 runner and had the same exact problems. My 4wd would not disengage. I took it to a TOYOTA dealer and they said they couldn't figure it out. He told me he changed all the "sensors" he called them, and still can't figure it out. I asked him what he thought it was and he said he suggests changing the transfer case and said it would cost about $4000. I said "no way" pack it up I'm coming to get it. So I investigated it myself. Here's the deal......on the 4-runners with 4wd we have a transfer case on the transmission with 2 switches, one to put it in 4wd and one to take it out. On the front differential we have 1 switch and the back has 1 switch. The only difference I know of is with a model with rear Locking Differential you will have a second switch on the rear diff. And with a model with front A.D.D. (automatic disconnecting differential) you have the 1 switch on front. So your switch needs to be replaced on the transfer case. These are called transfer indicating switches and here's the part no.'s.....pay close attention here. Transfer case has 2 switches, a 84222-12010 which brings it out of 4wd and a 84222-35070 which puts it into 4wd. You need the 84222-12010. You can only get them from your dealer and will have to order, they should be less than $100 ea. Very easy job to replace. Now here's bonus info for you since I had these problems also. My front wheels would grab and not turn very well when in 4wd mode. Terrible turning on dry pavement. This is the front differential switch. Toyota puts in the same exact switch as the transfer case, it's the 84222-12010 for both the front diff and the rear diff. The rear diff is a little harder to change but still for less than $300 I replaced all of mine and now have an awesome operating 4wd system again. Don't ever listen to your dealer unless you know them personally, they really do try to rip us off. When investigating my problem I read many, many, cases where dealers tryed the same stuff with other people.
By the way, to check the switches to make sure, pull them out and check continuity between the two prongs on the switch, put your meter on the prongs and the depress the switch and you should read continuity or the switch is bad. God bless and have fun.

Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Which_fuse...#ixzz21Zk50F00

After 12 years this is what my 01 4runner is doing (1st problem ever) and Acton TOYO wanted upto $1800 (open ended) just to troubleshoot it?

likkleBIT

Less costly replacement parts are listed in this thread. All of that sounds similar to what others have described here. Take a full read. WELL worth your while.

Rock Slide

iTrader: (1)

You have an 01...thus, you don't have a switch on the front diff. As likkleBIT said, read this entire thread...it's worth your while. While it may not entirely apply to your situation, it's good to know how this stuff works.

I have an '02 and mine got stuck in 4wd too. Dealer quoted me $4500 for a new tcase or $1800 to replace the actuator in mine. Ended up fixing the problem myself for about a tank of gas and 5mins worth of work.

Look a few posts back in this thread and you'll see my fix. Granted, you may just have to replace a sensor or 2 to fix your specific problem. However, unlike most, my actuator had actually failed...the good news was, it was not an internal problem, but an external problem. That is, the actuator motor itself on the back of the tcase (it's a small electric motor) had failed. The dealer does not sell this part individually (meaning I'd have to buy the entire actuator if I went thru them), so I searched local salvage yards instead. I scored one of a used tcase for dirt cheap. Most salvage yards will not have just an act motor they are willing to sell (as the tcase itself is useless w/o it), so you may even have to purchase a used tcase to get to small act motor...still though, used tcases can be had for $150-$400 all day depending on mileage.

I replaced my bad act motor w/ the used one and now my 4wd goes on & off w/ ease. Good luck.

WifesYota

Was in NC over the weekend and getting ready to hit the beach with the Wifes '01 (my 05 Avalanche 4WD is out) and I hit the switch on HiLo shifter and nothing happends lights just flash green and orange. Did the reverse/forward/neutral thing to try and get it to do something and nothing. I dont think it ever switched into 4WD. Its in 2WD now and has been since Saturday, lights still flashing.

Seems to me most if not all folks on this thread got stuck in 4WD, I never got there. Im going to TS all the sensors I can find.

Question is this, do you think this will apply to me and which sensors should I start with on an '01, and how many are there total, 4? like in Rock Slides pictures? Thanks folks.

Rock Slide

iTrader: (1)

Yes, you'll have a total of 4 switches...2 on top on 2 on the back of the tcase. Also need to check your actuator motor to see if it has failed.

Here's a way to check your act motor - get a friend to sit in your driver's seat and start up your truck, then put it in drive. You crawl somewhat under the truck and using a small hammer, tap the electric motor as your buddy pushes the 4WD button between on/off. If you can hear the actuator working by hitting it with a hammer, then you'll know the motor needs replacing.

This practice is typically done to start a worn alternator...but will also work for your act motor.

WifesYota

I'll try it this weekend, thanks for the help. I'll report back either way with the results.

Rock Slide

iTrader: (1)

BTW, the 2 switches in the rear of the tcase are easily removed w/ the correct metric socket. To remove the 2 switches on top of the tcase, I used a unique metric socket - one that is not only deep well, but is partially exposed to allow the wires of the switches to pass thru the socket as your turn the switch loose (I had to borrow this socket from a mechanic friend of mine). Once the switches are removed, testing each is easy w/ a multimeter.

Rodzilla

Hey guys, just checking on the thread that saved me a ton of work. Dont forget to try and rotate the front D'shaft to ensure that it is releasing. My 97runner actuator motor was stuck in 4hi (D'shaft would turn not by hand) but my front diff was unlocked in 2wd mode. Put 12v to the actuator an freed it up. Said above, alot of great info in this thread.

WifesYota

Fortunately for me unplugging the battery reset the lights...tested the 4wd in the front yard and no issues. Tested a few times. I dont think Im out of the woods yet but its working. I think my biggest mistake was trying to ˟˟˟˟ into 4WD while we werent moving at all. You wouldnt think that would be an issue but I think it was mine. Probably hadnt been used in a while and just needed a little 'help' getting started. I will book mark, I dont think this is the end of the story for me.

Trub

Greetings,

Does anyone have of a picture of the driven gear with the clock spring in the 2WD position? I'm very close to having mine fixed and I didn't take a picture of it when I took it apart. I took the actuator body off and cleaned the motor armature and brushes with DeoxIT repeating the process 3 times per the instructions, put it all back together but can't figure out the position of the driven gear for 2WD. I've looked at the two threads below and while they are similar to the 4Runner they are not the same.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...uator-fun.html

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...ator-question/



I'm so very close to having this working again it's driving me nuts!

jmusser

I know this is an old post and I may be beating a dead horse, but I need input on whether this might be a fix.
Same as everyone else my 4wd light was flashing and not engaging, so onto diagnosing. I checked everything, both actuators, vacuum lines, and all of the switches except for the ones on top of transfer case (I couldn't get to them). I was about to give up when I noticed everything was working. I accidentally left the 2 switches unplugged which are on the top front of transfer case. I discovered that the front one with the blue connector must be defective. If I plug it up, 4wd don't engage, unplug it and 4wd engages. This is listed as the L4 indicator switch and with it unplugged by electronic rear diff doesn't engage. It seems obvious that this is the culprit. I will order one but will probably have to take to my Totota guy to swap it out. I obviously can't trust my local dealer as I have been trying for 3 days to call parts and can't get anyone. I tried cutting off a wrench but still can't get up in there. For those diagnosing in the future you may just be able to unplug the switches one at a time and test to see how everything works.
I'll repost with results.

99SC4Runner

jmusser,

I might have the correct switch for your tcase? What year is your Toyota?

I have a brand new tcase indicating switch that I bought from Toyota but didn't need it, so it's for sale.

Let me know.

Thanks.

jmusser

FIXED! I had posted earlier that when I unplug the 4low indicator switch my 4wd worked. My 4wd would still work however it would periodically go into somewhat of a logic lock and the lights would flash. If I apply power to the transfer case actuator it would start working correctly. Yesterday I cut the wires going to the 4low switch and replaced this with a pull type switch on the dash. When I pull the switch the computer thinks the vehicle is in 4low therefore now I can use the rear diff lock in all modes. Not that I will be doing this but since the original switch wasn't working I think it was confusing the computer. Anyway works great now and slides and out of 4wd great and cost me $0. I have a friend who has salvaged a tool box full of connectors, wire, and switches. He's somewhat of a genius with this stuff telling me that he has rigged similar systems to make an awd vehicle 2wd drive by flipping a switch.

Trub

So for the record, I was not able to find out how the gear with the clock spring went back inside the actuator housing, I would not recommend taking this apart.

I was able to buy a multi-mode transfer case out of a 2000 Limited from another member here and when I took my old transfer case out, I tested all the switches on it. Turns out the center diff lock indicator switch, the one on the passenger side was bad. Short of removing the transfer case, I don't see a way of removing the switch. It's way at the top with no room to get a wrench on.

So like the OP stated pages before, test each switch for continuity before diving in anything else.

rfjphoto

This is my first post and I also joined because of this thread. I bought a 1999 4Runner Limited and when I pushed the 4x4 button to go into all wheel drive it resulted in the 4x4 lights flashing and then not being able to get it out again. I was very disappointed. After reading this thread all the way through and looking at all the photos I am proud to say I went right out and ordered a $39.00 part, listed in msg's above, and put it in in less then 5 minutes. All 4x4 and all wheel drive functions work perfectly now. What a great feeling to know they are now there as the weather is changing here in the PNW. THANKS TO ALL WHO POSTED ON THIS! AMAZING. WE should all bring a copy of this post to the dealers in our area. They may know about this but if we all did it, they would also know that WE know about this easy fix too!!