1999 4Runner Limited 3.4 Auto. This is my first Toyota and bought this as a non-running vehicle.

I have it running now but the 4WD indicator on the dash is just flashing. All 4 wheels flash green and the "transmission" flashes orange. It is up on jack stands and I'm trying to troubleshoot what may be wrong.

First question is will the 4WD even engage when the vehicle is up on jack stands? I read in another post that on a 1995 the front drive shaft has to be spinning to engage the 4WD. When I look under the vehicle with it in drive and in 4WD the rear wheels drive but the drive shaft to the front wheels are not spinning.

I don't want to start digging through all the actuators and vacuum lines only to find out it needs to be rolling to engage. I have some more work to do to it before I put it on the ground and attempt to drive it.

Thanks

 

Those green and orange flashing lights are telling you something! Find a FSM and see what those "codes" mean before just randomly trying things. Or search here, because you're not the first one with that problem. Yes, the 4wd will engage on jackstands, if it's working.

 

No error codes on the computer.

 

You hooked a scanner to it?

 

Yes, 4WD will engage even while the truck is on jack stands.

The 1999 Limited has the multi-mode 4WD so there will be several solenoids on the transfer case and the 4WD sensor in the front diff that you need to check. Another check that you need to do is the vacuum tube that runs from the right fender to the front diff has no holes or any leaks.

There was a thread in this forum, a very long thread, about the transfer case solenoids. That will help you on how to pinpoint the defective solenoid.

Here ya go:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/4...er-ltd-131201/

 

Yes I connected a code reader up to determine there are no errors.

 

I always thought it needed to roll a bit to engage 4wd or 4x4, i know my 99 will sit there and flash all day until it rolls a bit?, if there is a load like throttle or braking it won't engage or will engage very harshly, I never tried it on jack stands but seems to be the same as sitting still. The green wheels indicate 4WD is engaged via the button, and the orange t-case indicates you shifted into 4HL or 4x4 centre diff locked.

 

Thanks for the response from everybody, still working on it in my spare time. Bought as a non-running machine that others worked on a keep finding more problems.

The shift control lock was disconnected. The plastic switch that slides up and down on the shifter only engages if I do it by hand. Working on that I discovered the rod inside the the shifter was installed 180 degrees backwards so it would not lock in park or go into low. That was a simple fix.

Also the rear brakes don't work. To think until the flexplate broke they were driving it this way!

 

When buying a used car you just never know what to expect. Sounds like most have been some simple fix just by getting the parts connected or hooked up right.

 

Yes, there are times that it will engage/disengage only after rolling a bit but most of the time, it engages/disengages right away.

When you have the truck on jack stands, only one wheel per differential will turn, but it will be the same as running on ground.

 

Yes but he would have to get out and turn the drive wheel on the open diff well on jackstands. I'll admit 1 out 10 times(if that) it will engage immediately well parked which always impresses me as it is a rare occasion, I would consider sitting on jackstands as parked unless he has someone rolling front left drive and rear right drive tire..

 

Started on the check list and found one problem, bent terminal in the connector to the transfer case. Fixed that now it is stuck in 4wd.

My ohms checked out between terminals 2 and 3 but I have no ohms between 2 and the body and 3 and the body.

Guess it is bad according to the flow chart, but if it didn't get stuck in 4wd until I corrected the pin that means the actuator works. I will continue one with the flow chart and manual power the actuator. Any advice why the OHMs wouldn't check out?

 

I had the same problem. When you understand the positions of the actuator shaft, you will get it. In my situation, the actuator rotating switch had been opened by PO and was out of time. After I got that all back in time with the position of the actuator rod, it then worked correctly, but sporadically. I then found that one of the tiny pins got slightly bent on the connector, probably from pulling it off/on several times. I corrected the connector and it has worked flawlessly since.

This was all after I went through the above mentioned thread and pulled the position sensors, then tested, cleaned and re-installed each one. They all tested OK.