rando

The dimmer switch is hooked up to the 17 pin connector, C12.

C12 pin 16 is the common wire. It's White with a black stripe.
C12 pin 12 is the automatic headlight wire. It's green with an orange stripe.

Short these two together to enable automatic headlight control.

toybox

DRL's come on everytime I start the truck unless I have the parking brake on, day or night.

As far as trying this scenario it will have to wait until tomorrow. I'll print these posts out and see if I can follow your directions and post on Sat. night.

rando

Toy box, I think your explanation and observation that you do not have both sensors pretty much clears it up then. I've updated my above posts so nobody else gets confused. Hopefully this thread still reads clearly from top to bottom.

The following text from the wiring manual describes the operation of the DRLs. Notice how they say the DRLs work in the 'daytime' but then later don't mention that daytime is a condition for them to operate. That and the partznet category for the sensor led to my confusion.

----------------
(w/ daytime running light)
* This system is designed to automatically activate the turn signal lights during the daytime to keep the car highly visible to
other vehicles. This system is controlled by the body ECU.
This system makes use of the turn signal lights as daytime running lights.
For this reason, when the turn signal lights are operated, the daytime running lights function is interrupted momentarily,
which, however, will be brought back into operation as soon as the interposed operation is over.
* This system is enabled when the conditions given below are met.
A) Ignition switch ON condition
B) Turn signal light switch OFF condition
C) Hazard light switch OFF condition
D) Light control switch OFF condition
E) Parking brake switch OFF condition (Parking brake out of operating condition)**
**: This system does not become active when the parking brake switch is ON. However, once the OFF signal of the
parking brake switch is input into the body ECU, this system will become active thereafter, regardless of whether the
parking brake switch is ON or OFF.

rando

Ok, I've studied the wiring diagram some more and now it makes sense. There are two versions of the Instrument Panel No.2 Wire harness. The version that comes on the SR5 and Sport only has the IG1 (harness to harness) and A20 (solar sensor) connector.

The Limited model comes with the IP No.2 Wire harness with 3 connectors. IG1 (harness to harness), A21 (dual solar sensor), and A39(light sensor). So basically you need this harness to connect your light sensor. In this case, however, you wont be able to hook up your solar sensor anymore because the A21 connector is different than the A20.

So here are the options I see. They are listed in order of cleanliness of installation.

1) Get the Limited harness AND dual solar sensor. Just plug everything in.
The dual sensor WILL NOT give you a dual zone climate control system but IT MAY confuse the hell out of your A/C ECU.

2) Get the Limited harness and splice in the A20 connector from our original harness. This would be fairly easy to do.

3) Obtain an A39 connector and splice it into our existing IG1 female connector

4) Obtain an A39 connector and splice it directly to the Instrument Panel Wires Harness (i.e. the male side of the IG1 connector).

5) Build your own 3 wire cable assembly for the light sensor and splice it into IG1 or the Instrument Panel Wire Harness.

*** I still have no confirmation if the Body ECU has the programming to support the auto/on feature. I also do not yet know, for certain, if the DRLs use (or can use) the light sensorl though I believe they are unrelated.

MORE TO COME

rando

IG1 pin numbering.

Male connector (IP harness side). Looking from the non-wire side with the retention mechanism facing up.
1 2 3
4 5 6

Female connector (IP No.2 harness side). Same orientation as above
3 2 1
6 5 4

rando

A20 pin numbering (black connector, SR5/Sport)
Looking from the non-wire side with the retention mechanism facing up.
1 2

A21 pin numbering (black connector, Limited Edition only)
Looking from the non-wire side with the retention mechanism facing up.
1 2 3

rando

A39 pin numbering
Looking from the non-wire side with the retention mechanism facing up.
1 2 3 4

rando

Ok, I just finished combing the repair and diagnostic manuals. Apparently there is no ambiguity in the manuals. The DRLs DO NOT use the light sensor. I gues I picked up this assumption due to the way that partznet lists the sensor under the DRL category. LOL, I should have recalled that it's not uncommon for part descriptions and categories to be 'off'.

I've gone back and corrected my previous posts. Sorry for any confusion this may have causesd anyone.

The good news is that we now understand how the system is supposed to be wired and why Yosmany is having problems getting it hooked up. Basically you'll have to look at the options in post #44.

Yosmany

So I was right to think that I need a different harness. It seems like a lot to add auto lights. I wish there was someone in my area that would let me look inside their dash.

But here are the offical toyota part number so that there is no confusion.

LIMITED DIMMER 84140-35150

LIGHT SENSOR 89121-12010

My "friend" at Toyota as all the employees get 10% above cost plus tax.

I am listed as a body shop/ auto shop so I get 30% off list, but no tax.

Partznet.com has very competitive prices. There has actually been situations where partznet has been cheaper, expect for shipping.

His discount is usually a few bucks less than mine. I don't know if he could hook up the parts because he is an asst. manager, and all the parts that are ordered in from the port are inventoried by his supervisor. Which means that they get suspicious when 3 limited dimmers were ordered by the parts counter and not the techs in the garage.

Basically, if all I wanted was DRL's all I have to change is the fuse relay correct?

Do you know the part number for that relay?

I am including a picture on the inside of the sensor so you all can clearly see what the pins look like.

rando

FYI, the part number for the A39 connector is 90980-11107. Accoding to the shop manuals, this part may not be established in the supply chain. No part numbers are provided for the harnesses but your part supplier still may be able to locate them by the name(s) I used above.

rando

Yes you are right, you need a different harness. The problem is you need a harness that doesn't exist. You must make your own by one of the methods listed in my previous post.

Yes, (according to my current theory) all you need is the relay for the DRLs.

I don't have the part number but here is the URL to the DRL flasher relay at partznet.

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...03&catalogid=2

Would you be willing to part with the light sensor and/or let me borrow it to give it a try? I think I could wire it up with no problem.

rando

I just looked at your picture. It's 3 pins with room for the 4 pin A39 connector. Makes perfect sense.

Yosmany

Well I didn't have to pay for the dimmer, but I have ot pay for the sensor, so the total for both parts was $95.64, which I planned returning and putting the money back on my credit card. The only other thing was that if it worked then I would have to give him my old dimmer w/fogs. Which dimmer do you currently have?

Where do you live?

rando

I have the standard 04 SR5 dimmer with fogs. I live in sourthern california.

rando

Yosmany, you have a PM!

rando

I just noticed that my pin numbering was backwards. All the numbering is correct assuming you are looking at NON-wire side of the connector. I went back and corrected my previous posts.

rando

I got the parts from Yosmany today.

I had to create a custom harness (3 wires) for the sensor. I found that one of the old style (large) CDROM-Audio connectors fit nicely into the sensor. I removed the pins from the CDROM connector and soldered on some larger wire and then put the connector back together. Next, I spliced the 3 wires into the harness behind the instrument panel, using t-splice taps (snap on). I wraped the taps with foam (I don't want any rattles) and then zip tied my new harness to the existing solar sensor wire.

Once the light sensor dummy plug was removed (tough to reach but doable without removing anything more than the instrument panel) I dropped in the new sensor and hooked it up. Next I removed my facotory dimmer switch (2 screws and a wire connector) and installed the Limited dimmer.

At this point I reattached the battery and fired up the truck. It was already dark out and the lights came on immediately when I set the dimmer to Auto. I grabbed a shop light and held it directly over the sensor. In about 15 seconds the headlights went off. I removed the shop light and the headlights came back on after a few more seconds. Everything else works as before.

Thanks again to Yosmany for the excellent deal on the parts!

toybox

Any chance you took any pic's? Could you maybe rehash with pic's exactly what you did with the custom harness and how it is connected and relist the part numbers. I know it is alot to ask for but I would really appreciate it.

Thanks.

rando

Do a search at t4r.org. I posted all the pics I had there. Yosmany listed the part numbers above. The wiring connections to be made are also listed above and at t4r.org.

rando

So did anyone ever try the DRL flasher?