Long story short I had to sell my previous 3rd Gen to free up cash to keep my business alive. I picked up a used LS300 and life got back on track. I'm ready to grab another 3rd Gen or 4th Gen but doubt I'll have cash for the 4th. I know there are other trucks more ideal but I can't afford them. I would prefer a DD 4runner. I know em, can fix em and trust them. I need it to be a tow rig 2/3 times a month of 5000lbs or less. So here are the questions and details. I'll be towing a vehicle one way less than a 2 hour drive and never over 60mph with no stopping. Plan to upgrade to Tundra Breaks and Tranny Cooler and will use my dolly. Also note I will typically be pulling Wranglers back to where I live so no really heavy loads.

1. 2x2 or 4x4, I've read the 2x2 is better for towing, is this correct? Is the 4x4 hampered from towing?

2. When a 2x2 comes factory with a towing package. What does that include that simply adding a frame attached trailer hit doesn't? Tranny cooler? Bigger Breaks?

3. How will making 2/3 tow hauls a month effect the Tranny?

4. Should I drain and replace tranny with better lubricant (royal Purple).

Ideally I'd like to use the 3rd gen to build up to a v8 4th Gen but thats at least a year away. i appreciate your input in advance.

 

Ouch.

 

Most people sleep this time of night.

Go with a after market trans cooler getting the trans fluid out of the radiator.

Transmission temperature gauge is a must !!!

Heat is what kills these things .

used trans who can say how it has been treated do you feel Lucky???

Make sure the frame where the receiver hitch mounts is good and solid no loose bolts

Brakes on your Tow Dolly is a great way to go!!!!

The towing package just had a receiver hitch and stupid light converter box.

since you need a 7 pin plug to run your tow dolly brakes get rid of that trouble causing converter box.

2wd /4wd if you don`t really need the 4 wd go with a 2 wd myself the only way I would own a 2wd was if it was a dual wheel diesel and was only used as a Tow vehicle.

 

Go with a after market trans cooler getting the trans fluid out of the radiator. So the aftermarket trans cooler circulates transmission fluid through the transmission?

used trans who can say how it has been treated do you feel Lucky???
Kind of have no choice, luckier in it than I do in a used overpriced Domestically made truck.


The towing package just had a receiver hitch and stupid light converter box.
So not really much of a package, good to know. So your saying for me to replace the box. Or just find one without the "towing package" and add it the right way.

2wd /4wd if you don`t really need the 4 wd go with a 2 wd myself the only way I would own a 2wd was if it was a dual wheel diesel and was only used as a Tow vehicle. I'd prefer the 4wd for slick boat towing sit and when I'm up in the mountains. But a 150k 3rd gen down here is $2500 as opposed to $5k for the 4x4. Basically you have to give it away if its not a 4x4.

Thanks for the input.

 

After market trans cooler replaces the one in the bottom of the radiator and is most often larger .

Getting trans fluid out of the radiator is always good.

Because Toyotas have stand alone turn signals and most trailers have it all in one bulb a regular 4pin light plug does not work without the converter box

I just run separate a two light system( 4 total ) on all my light bars and towed equipment

Just like our vehicles .

Keeping the transmission at normal operating temperatures and doing the normal maintenance goes a long way to keeping it alive.

If this is used in the course of your business I would for sure plan to have a extra vehicle for when things break as they will.

Good luck

 

What are the pluse's to towing with a 2x2 as opposed as to the 4x4?

 

Go 4x4, they have stronger trans and there is no reason I can why a 2x2 would be better.

Like was said get a trans cooler, biggest you can fit. Trans temp gauge (OBDII reader if you ECU supports outputting the temp).

Switching to AMSoil fluid would not hurt, good idea to change fluids on a new car anyways.

Although I will be honest, if this vehicles use will be significantly for towing, you will be better off with a full sized truck. I have towed a ton with my 4runner and while it handled it fine, a full sized truck does it much better.

I would personally find an older diesel truck for tow duties.

If towing is a small part of what it will be doing then for with the 4runer.

 

See I would assume the 4x4 transmission would be stouter as well.

The 4runner will literally made 3/4 one way tows a month. All flat, back country roads at 55 and under.

Would love to have a dedicated older diesel tow pig. But I can't work on one. Don't have a shop to do it in. Don't have all the tools needed. And I damned sure don't have $10k it would cost to pay someone to rebuild the motor in one.

Thanks for the input as well.

 

Eh, if you can work on a 4runner, you can work on a diesel. That assumes it ever needs work, they last darn near forever.

Honestly there is nothing special about cars from the 90's and earlier. You can work on any of them, just how often they need it and how pricy the parts are that changes. The last decade has seen manufactures make cars harder to work on on purpose and thus they can be a bit different, but still generally limited to the higher end stuff.

/Rant

You will be fine towing that much but watch the trans fluid and change a lot more often.

 

I gotta disagree with you there. The worst thing that could happen is I drop $1500 on a whole new motor or $300 on a Tranny in the Yota. I can venture that those would run $10k and $5k in a diesel and for a reason. I've literally never even laid eyes on a diesel. But I've had 2 friend with king ranches and both went back to gas when handed $7k+ repair bills under 200k miles. Hell I've had 3, 3rd gens make it to 300k+ with no major repair before I sold them off. One kid I still see driving my old one around town. Changing and alternator or a U joint is one thing but the cost of any real motor work on a diesel is just absurdly dumb.

 

Not true at all, the diesel engine/trans would cost about the same as the toyota, cheaper in some cases. Heck quick ebay search turned up complete engine for under $2k with delivery, means that locally in a junk yard it will be about half that.

I mean in all honesty it is hard to find any engine over about 2k from the junkyard from a car over 10 years old unless it is rare.

Being handed a stupidly expensive bill means nothing, shops overcharge all the time. The actual parts are cheap if you do your own work and they are no harder to work on, easier in many ways.

I am not a diesel fanboy by any means but I do have to give them credit where credit is due.

It was just a suggestion to think about. I figure people should have all the options before making a decision.

 

I gotta ask. What are you going to be towing on a car dolly, a few times a month only one way? Stealing cars and taking them away??

 

No I'm not stealing them. I'll be pulling them back from the auction. I've got a friend who owns a specific type of vehicle dealership and he'll pay me to pick up as opposed to someone else.

 

I'd lean toward a full size at least. You can pull a lot with smaller trucks but would you really want to? As the diesels go, yea they do cost more but they are worth it IMO.
I was at the max weight limit of my Colorado pulling my tractor and equipment. So I was in the market for a full size to pull it just a few times out of the year. I done my homework and ended up with a 2500HD Duramax.

 

I would love to shell out $10k for a towing truck. But I don't have it for about a year. What I do have is 4.5k.

 

Not sure where you are located but I just ran a quick craigslist search around me and found more diesel trucks that would do what you want then I could count all within your budget. Some pretty nice and some really cheap, like $1000.

Even saw a 90's surburban diesel that would give you the best of an SUV and tow vehicle.

I think you are blowing off a diesel just because of what you think they are without actually looking into the facts.

For example a lot of people see an over viper and assume that cost a bundle when in fact you can get them for around $20k now days if you look around. Less then most new cars. Just what people think, not what is really going on.

 

I think I paid right at 5k for my diesel. Extended cab 4x4 leather power everything. Ranch hand bumpers front and rear with a winch. Just have to look for them.

 

I live in Coastal SC, you won't find a diesel anything for under $5k unless its literally beat all to hell and not kept up. Because we're so far from the big car auction used cars are seriously 15/20% more than anywhere else in the state. Its almost like being on an island. Also I can't use one of the crew cabs with the 28 foot long bed because I'd have no where to park it. Jesus those trucks are long as hell.

http://myrtlebeach.craigslist.org/se...=1&maxAsk=5000

What about those 2 door Tahoe/Blazers that came with a diesel?

The guy I'm pulling for only buy's Wranglers. So I'll be pulling 3000lbs, 2/3 times a month. You guys really think that'll kill a 4runner?


Also note I found a 4th gen v8 4x4 with 150k on it "asking $6000. I think that would def get the job done.

 

Will towing that much kill the 4runner? No it will do it but it won't be happy about it on a repeated basis. It was simply not designed for towing duties.

The biggest difference is that the bigger trucks are a lot easier to tow with from the drivers seat. They just handle it much better.

That GMC surburban in the link you posted would be a great candidate. Heck I wish I could get it as the Excurision diesel is way to pricy.

The 4th gen for 6k would do it better then the 3rd gen but something seems off to be that cheap, check it over carefully.

 

I think you'll be fine. Is it ideal? No... but if it's your daily driver, then I can see why you don't want an all out tow rig.


Since you're in the Low Country (used to live in Columbia for a short while btw), you won't be needing a ton of power to get over any big grades. If you're dead set on getting a 4Runner, then I would recommend getting a '99 or newer, simply because you can monitor the ATF fluid temperature. Can't do that with the '98 and older 4Runners.


I would also recommend the Tundra Brake Upgrade. I've towed some heavy ˟˟˟˟˟, and was glad to have the bigger brakes. Had my Tundra brakes for over 2 years, and they're still going strong, no warped rotors yet. Get the external transmission cooler (most people recommend B&M), and bypass the stock trans cooler, which is integrated into the radiator.


I also recommend putting air shocks in the rear so that your 4Runner doesn't sag horribly whenever you're towing. I bought the Airlift 1000 for about $100, and it handles better when the rear isn't sagging.