3rd Gen 4runner stuck in 4wd
09-15-2020, 07:43 PM
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3rd Gen 4runner stuck in 4wd
I am in the midst of another stuck in 4wd scenarios. There are some good threads already, and I thought I would just combine them with my manual as a chug along for the sake of the next guy.
2000 4runner limited (which means it has a center lock diff, push button 4wd on the shift tower, and vacuum controlled ADD)
Problem: 4wd light flashes on the dash when the the transfer case is in 2wd and the push button 4wd is disengaged. It engages into 4wd by moving the transfer case lever or via the push botton 4wd, but does not disengage from 4wd. This is verified when the vehicle is on jack stands and the front axle is still locked as well as the front driveshaft.
1. Check Transfer Case Actuator
1.1 Remove both switches on the Actuator and perform continuity test when the plunger was depressed.
1.1.1 Continuity when plunger is depressed, and no continuity when plunger is released.
1.2 Apply power to the actuator connector (mine is 2 rows of 3 plugs not the 6 plug) motor to engage and disengage actuator.
1.2.2 Remove the heater core relay (it is the same part number as 4wd relay but easier to access) and provide power via relay to the actuator plug.
1.3 Check for continuity at transfer case push button selector switch.
1.3.1 Continuity when button is depressed, and no continuity when it is released.
2. Check Automatic Differential Disconnect (ADD) system
2.1 Remove switch on ADD body and performed same continuity test as on the transfer case.
2.2 Remove ADD Actuator and perform vacuum test (you can do this with it on as well, but I wanted to visually inspect it too)
2.2.1 With a handheld vacuum pump attached to port A (bell housing side) and verify fork moves to the right (disengages).
2.2.2 With a handheld vacuum pump attached to port B verify the fork moves to the left (engages).
2.2.3 Reinstalled ADD actuator assembly and switches
2.3 Check vacuum lines in ADD system
2.3.1 With a handheld pump checked that vacuum lines held pressure to and from the ADD actuator from the ADD solenoids. Between the solenoids. To and from the the intake manifold and the canister.
2.4 Check ADD Solenoids
2.4.1 Check for resistance of each solenoid (B/w 38-45 ohms).
2.4.2 Remove Solenoids and check for vacuum when powered.
2.4.2.1 Air flows into port E (further from the filter) and out port F (closer to the filter).
2.4.2.1 When power is cut air flows into port E and out the air filter, but not port F.
2.4.3 I had a hard time verifying the vacuum under power, and tried a few different methods to test air flow, but wasn't convinced. So at that point I replaced the both solenoids. This didn't solve the problem.
2.5 Check power to ADD solenoids
2.5.1 Check continuity in green solenoid with transfer case in 4wd or push button 4wd engaged.
2.5.1 Check continuity in brown solenoid with transfer case in 2wd or push button disengaged.
2000 4runner limited (which means it has a center lock diff, push button 4wd on the shift tower, and vacuum controlled ADD)
Problem: 4wd light flashes on the dash when the the transfer case is in 2wd and the push button 4wd is disengaged. It engages into 4wd by moving the transfer case lever or via the push botton 4wd, but does not disengage from 4wd. This is verified when the vehicle is on jack stands and the front axle is still locked as well as the front driveshaft.
1. Check Transfer Case Actuator
1.1 Remove both switches on the Actuator and perform continuity test when the plunger was depressed.
1.1.1 Continuity when plunger is depressed, and no continuity when plunger is released.
1.2 Apply power to the actuator connector (mine is 2 rows of 3 plugs not the 6 plug) motor to engage and disengage actuator.
1.2.2 Remove the heater core relay (it is the same part number as 4wd relay but easier to access) and provide power via relay to the actuator plug.
1.3 Check for continuity at transfer case push button selector switch.
1.3.1 Continuity when button is depressed, and no continuity when it is released.
2. Check Automatic Differential Disconnect (ADD) system
2.1 Remove switch on ADD body and performed same continuity test as on the transfer case.
2.2 Remove ADD Actuator and perform vacuum test (you can do this with it on as well, but I wanted to visually inspect it too)
2.2.1 With a handheld vacuum pump attached to port A (bell housing side) and verify fork moves to the right (disengages).
2.2.2 With a handheld vacuum pump attached to port B verify the fork moves to the left (engages).
2.2.3 Reinstalled ADD actuator assembly and switches
2.3 Check vacuum lines in ADD system
2.3.1 With a handheld pump checked that vacuum lines held pressure to and from the ADD actuator from the ADD solenoids. Between the solenoids. To and from the the intake manifold and the canister.
2.4 Check ADD Solenoids
2.4.1 Check for resistance of each solenoid (B/w 38-45 ohms).
2.4.2 Remove Solenoids and check for vacuum when powered.
2.4.2.1 Air flows into port E (further from the filter) and out port F (closer to the filter).
2.4.2.1 When power is cut air flows into port E and out the air filter, but not port F.
2.4.3 I had a hard time verifying the vacuum under power, and tried a few different methods to test air flow, but wasn't convinced. So at that point I replaced the both solenoids. This didn't solve the problem.
2.5 Check power to ADD solenoids
2.5.1 Check continuity in green solenoid with transfer case in 4wd or push button 4wd engaged.
2.5.1 Check continuity in brown solenoid with transfer case in 2wd or push button disengaged.
Last edited by Bronzey; 09-15-2020 at 09:25 PM.
09-16-2020, 07:25 PM
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Yup, gently pried off the cover to the transfer case actuator and it looks in good condition. Applied power to terminals 2 & 3 (bottom right on the 2 row connector) and it engages and disengages. Both switches are operating correctly. Takes a 27mm deep well socket or wrench to remove both switches
Next up is ADD
09-16-2020, 08:56 PM
#4
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You mentioned the 4wd lights are blinking. That is an error message that something is out of phase. One of your position switches is almost certainly the culprit.
09-19-2020, 06:57 PM
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I went to work ticking my way down the list today.
So position switches (27mm wrench size) - there are two on the transfer case body, one on the passenger side of the transfer case, two on the driver side of the t case, and one on the front diff. All of those tested okay. They have continuity when the plunger is depressed and no continuity when released. The three on top of the t case were hard to access and I ended up just dropping the case to access them.
I removed the front ADD assembly - it was clean inside- and tested that it operates the fork under air pressure, which it did. I threw it back on and checked that it operated when air is applied from the solenoids (I used a handheld pump, and checked it again by just flipping the lines from the solenoid).
At this point I suspected it was the solenoid that wasn't opening the valve for air pressure to disengage the ADD fork, so I ran out and threw in a new one to no avail. I tested the connections leading to the solenoid, and when Multi Mode is engaged I get continuity to the blue solenoid. When it is disengaged I don't get any continuity to the brown solenoid. My guess is the ecu isn't getting the correct reading from the transfer case and isn't supplying power to the solenoid, or the ecu is just malfunctioning. I can unlock the diff by providing air pressure, but the front driveshaft is always locked in to the transfer case regardless of what I do.
At this point I am leaning toward the 4wd relay or the ECU. Does that sound like the next rabbit hole to chase?
So position switches (27mm wrench size) - there are two on the transfer case body, one on the passenger side of the transfer case, two on the driver side of the t case, and one on the front diff. All of those tested okay. They have continuity when the plunger is depressed and no continuity when released. The three on top of the t case were hard to access and I ended up just dropping the case to access them.
I removed the front ADD assembly - it was clean inside- and tested that it operates the fork under air pressure, which it did. I threw it back on and checked that it operated when air is applied from the solenoids (I used a handheld pump, and checked it again by just flipping the lines from the solenoid).
At this point I suspected it was the solenoid that wasn't opening the valve for air pressure to disengage the ADD fork, so I ran out and threw in a new one to no avail. I tested the connections leading to the solenoid, and when Multi Mode is engaged I get continuity to the blue solenoid. When it is disengaged I don't get any continuity to the brown solenoid. My guess is the ecu isn't getting the correct reading from the transfer case and isn't supplying power to the solenoid, or the ecu is just malfunctioning. I can unlock the diff by providing air pressure, but the front driveshaft is always locked in to the transfer case regardless of what I do.
At this point I am leaning toward the 4wd relay or the ECU. Does that sound like the next rabbit hole to chase?
09-21-2020, 12:29 PM
#6
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That your front driveshaft is locked tells me the transfer case isn’t in the position it’s supposed to be in.
with the stick in 2wd the front driveshaft should free spin.
with the stick in 2wd the front driveshaft should free spin.
09-21-2020, 03:06 PM
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I think you are right.
I dropped the t case out so I could check if the actuator forks are internally bound in the case. I could move it throughout the range by hand and also by jumping the actuator motor that it moved throughout the range. Rechecked all 5 switches on the case and actuator. Double checked the “timing” of the limit switch when in 2wd, put it all back together and threw it on.
So my actuator shaft was in 2wd (pulled all the way back), my motor was in 2wd, and the front drive shaft spun freely, but the hubs were locked. No problem, a little vacuum pressure to unlock the hub and now everything is in 2wd. Turn the key, with transfer j shift in 2wd, and a few seconds later flashing 4wd lights and it Locked everything back into 4wd
I dropped the t case out so I could check if the actuator forks are internally bound in the case. I could move it throughout the range by hand and also by jumping the actuator motor that it moved throughout the range. Rechecked all 5 switches on the case and actuator. Double checked the “timing” of the limit switch when in 2wd, put it all back together and threw it on.
So my actuator shaft was in 2wd (pulled all the way back), my motor was in 2wd, and the front drive shaft spun freely, but the hubs were locked. No problem, a little vacuum pressure to unlock the hub and now everything is in 2wd. Turn the key, with transfer j shift in 2wd, and a few seconds later flashing 4wd lights and it Locked everything back into 4wd
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09-21-2020, 04:01 PM
#8
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When you check your switches, you have to check for continuity along the WHOLE stroke of the sensor. Just because you get appropriate signal at the top and bottom, that isn’t where the sensor reports while in service. You need to measure from like an 1/8” off each max.
08-21-2023, 09:59 AM
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Ya. It turned out the 1st actuator I bought second hand would work under power, but not under load when installed. So I bought a second one and that did the trick.
01-26-2024, 12:45 PM
#12
4wd Issues
Hello, I am struggling through a problem with my ‘99 Limited. 4wd didn’t work properly when I bought the truck. I figured I could work the problem out and since the truck only had 126k miles and no rust (on the east coast) I figured it was worth buying. I assumed that the system had just stopped working and needed to be diagnosed and repaired. Yes, I am an idiot. Insert assumption catch phrase here. Anyway, there were no 4wd indicator lights in the instrument cluster and no evidence of either the front diff or transfer case engaging when pressing the switch on the selector or moving the selector into H4L. However, moving to H4L clearly engaged 4L and I was able to engage the rear diff lock. I have been working on this for about a week now but in an effort to avoid unnecessary windiness I will just start where I am now.
It turns out that the truck has had some dip˟˟˟˟ fiddle-fricking with numerous parts of the system. I believe that I have now uncovered all of them but I’m not 100% certain yet.
The first thing I found involved the front diff. The vacuum line from the blue solenoid to the brown solenoid had been disconnect from the brown solenoid and had a bolt stuck in it leaving the brown solenoid open to the wind. I took the bolt out and reconnected the line. I the check the function of the A.D,D. Switch and found that it did express continuity but it was erratic. I cleaned it as well as possible but by my understanding of how it should operate it is faulty. Not an overly expensive part so I will replace it to eliminate any question. Also, I have sourced a functional replacement solenoid set which is affordable so I am going to replace that as well. I expect there may be some issue with the A.D.D. Or the vacuum lines but I have move on from that system for the moment because…
Yesterday I discovered that the reason I have had no 4wd indicator lights is because someone had unplugged the 4wd ECU. Plugging it back in immediately gave me blinking 4wd indicator lights that won’t go away and although that isn’t technically a good thing it does make me part of the crew here. I previously determined that although I had no lights and no front axle engagement the transfer case was stuck in 4wd all the time. I had successfully jumped it into 2wd but it dropped right back in when I connected the 4wd ECU. When I tried to jump the actuator back to 2wd it seemed to give up the ghost. I figured that meant that I needed an actuator and decided to be done for the night. However, when I took the truck down off the jack stands I found that I had a vehicle that didn’t want to move on its own or even go into Park very happily giving me concern that I may need a transmission. At which point I began to consider Seppuku but decided to close up shop and go to bed instead. Which brings us to this afternoon…
I pondered the matter overnight and determined that the transmission issue was likely because the transfer case actuator had died leaving the transfer case in some limbo/ neutral state. However, since it doesn’t want to party anymore I would have to pull it off and manually put the transfer case into 2wd to confirm what I hoped to be the case. So I went about doing just that. I first pulled off the little triangle shaped cover plate to expose the gear that must be removed to pull the actuator at which point gear oil started dripping on my chest. I got a catch basin finished removing the actuator. I was then able to confirm that the selector shaft was almost in neutral. I was able pull the selector shaft all the way out and confirm that the transfer case goes into 2wd. I also confirmed 4H. After pulling the selector shaft back out to 2wd I was able to confirm that the transmission engaged and goes into Park with no problem. I am trying to get the truck out of the garage tonight if humanly possible. My wife works nights and the rather is crap so I like to be able to have her use the garage. I could really use some help answering the following questions
1) With the actuator removed it is not leaking any gear oil. I certainly wouldn’t drive it anywhere but is it okay to move the truck out of the garage without reinstalling the actuator?
2) I jumped the actuator by connecting ground to pin 3 and power to pin 2 on the connector. I believe it is set in 2wd but it will not move again. I know I am not jumping it correctly as I am not using a heater relay per the shop manual just my Power Probe. A) Why does the manual say to use a heater relay? B) Does doing it the way I am cause it damage?
3) Is there a right way to confirm the state that the actuator is in(N, 4H, 2H) so that when I install a new one or reinstall the old one I can be sure that it is synchronized with the transfer case?
4) Can I reinstall the 4wd actuator and leave it disconnected to avoid it dropping the transfer case back into 4wd until I am able to get a replacement? I’d like to be able to drive the vehicle, albeit in permanent 2wd, until I can gather the necessary components to get the repairs done properly.
5) It seems like a weak link that should just be replaced at this point so I have not taken the actuator any further apart. A) Is it worth trying to diagnose and repair the actuator? B) Or does that really depend on how hard it is to find one and what it will cost?
I am guessing that the 4wd ECU was disconnected to get the flashing lights to stop but I am curious if anyone knows of a this actually ECU failing?
I know that, on my ‘99 Limited the center diff lock is supposed to engage when the transfer case shifter is pulled back to H4L. I I have been told that it is not actually mechanical but rather a switch that is activated. I know that there is a Center Diff Lock “indicator” switch but in the shop manual I do not see a switch dedicated to locking the center diff.What handles that task? Is it one of the 4wd switches located on the actuator?
When I pull my shifter back H4L I don’t feel anything I’d describe as “positive engagement” such as when the shifter is put into 2H-4H or L4L. It sort of just chills in limbo. Is that how it should be or do I have a problem there as well?
Thanks for any help that anyone sends my way
It turns out that the truck has had some dip˟˟˟˟ fiddle-fricking with numerous parts of the system. I believe that I have now uncovered all of them but I’m not 100% certain yet.
The first thing I found involved the front diff. The vacuum line from the blue solenoid to the brown solenoid had been disconnect from the brown solenoid and had a bolt stuck in it leaving the brown solenoid open to the wind. I took the bolt out and reconnected the line. I the check the function of the A.D,D. Switch and found that it did express continuity but it was erratic. I cleaned it as well as possible but by my understanding of how it should operate it is faulty. Not an overly expensive part so I will replace it to eliminate any question. Also, I have sourced a functional replacement solenoid set which is affordable so I am going to replace that as well. I expect there may be some issue with the A.D.D. Or the vacuum lines but I have move on from that system for the moment because…
Yesterday I discovered that the reason I have had no 4wd indicator lights is because someone had unplugged the 4wd ECU. Plugging it back in immediately gave me blinking 4wd indicator lights that won’t go away and although that isn’t technically a good thing it does make me part of the crew here. I previously determined that although I had no lights and no front axle engagement the transfer case was stuck in 4wd all the time. I had successfully jumped it into 2wd but it dropped right back in when I connected the 4wd ECU. When I tried to jump the actuator back to 2wd it seemed to give up the ghost. I figured that meant that I needed an actuator and decided to be done for the night. However, when I took the truck down off the jack stands I found that I had a vehicle that didn’t want to move on its own or even go into Park very happily giving me concern that I may need a transmission. At which point I began to consider Seppuku but decided to close up shop and go to bed instead. Which brings us to this afternoon…
I pondered the matter overnight and determined that the transmission issue was likely because the transfer case actuator had died leaving the transfer case in some limbo/ neutral state. However, since it doesn’t want to party anymore I would have to pull it off and manually put the transfer case into 2wd to confirm what I hoped to be the case. So I went about doing just that. I first pulled off the little triangle shaped cover plate to expose the gear that must be removed to pull the actuator at which point gear oil started dripping on my chest. I got a catch basin finished removing the actuator. I was then able to confirm that the selector shaft was almost in neutral. I was able pull the selector shaft all the way out and confirm that the transfer case goes into 2wd. I also confirmed 4H. After pulling the selector shaft back out to 2wd I was able to confirm that the transmission engaged and goes into Park with no problem. I am trying to get the truck out of the garage tonight if humanly possible. My wife works nights and the rather is crap so I like to be able to have her use the garage. I could really use some help answering the following questions
1) With the actuator removed it is not leaking any gear oil. I certainly wouldn’t drive it anywhere but is it okay to move the truck out of the garage without reinstalling the actuator?
2) I jumped the actuator by connecting ground to pin 3 and power to pin 2 on the connector. I believe it is set in 2wd but it will not move again. I know I am not jumping it correctly as I am not using a heater relay per the shop manual just my Power Probe. A) Why does the manual say to use a heater relay? B) Does doing it the way I am cause it damage?
3) Is there a right way to confirm the state that the actuator is in(N, 4H, 2H) so that when I install a new one or reinstall the old one I can be sure that it is synchronized with the transfer case?
4) Can I reinstall the 4wd actuator and leave it disconnected to avoid it dropping the transfer case back into 4wd until I am able to get a replacement? I’d like to be able to drive the vehicle, albeit in permanent 2wd, until I can gather the necessary components to get the repairs done properly.
5) It seems like a weak link that should just be replaced at this point so I have not taken the actuator any further apart. A) Is it worth trying to diagnose and repair the actuator? B) Or does that really depend on how hard it is to find one and what it will cost?
I am guessing that the 4wd ECU was disconnected to get the flashing lights to stop but I am curious if anyone knows of a this actually ECU failing?
I know that, on my ‘99 Limited the center diff lock is supposed to engage when the transfer case shifter is pulled back to H4L. I I have been told that it is not actually mechanical but rather a switch that is activated. I know that there is a Center Diff Lock “indicator” switch but in the shop manual I do not see a switch dedicated to locking the center diff.What handles that task? Is it one of the 4wd switches located on the actuator?
When I pull my shifter back H4L I don’t feel anything I’d describe as “positive engagement” such as when the shifter is put into 2H-4H or L4L. It sort of just chills in limbo. Is that how it should be or do I have a problem there as well?
Thanks for any help that anyone sends my way
Last edited by MarzVegas; 01-26-2024 at 12:46 PM. Reason: Incorrectly titled
01-26-2024, 04:39 PM
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Sorry for your troubles. It’s been years since I fixed the issue, and some of the details elude my memory, but I will try to be helpful. I tore through every part of that system more than once to fix the problem. I think I went through two transfer cases, two actuators, one ADD solenoid, and several sensors. My OG actuator was bad and my replacement only partly worked which took me a long time to realize 🤦♂️
1) I think you can move your truck without the actuator in or without it plugged in. I never tried that specifically, but I don’t see why you couldn’t. You’ll get the flashing lights of death
2) Get to know what positions of the fork correspond to 4H, 4L, and 2wd. You can move it by hand with the actuator off. As the fork moves through it’s positions it depresses the lobes on the sensors (creates continuity) to send to the ecu. It’s WAY easier to test your sensors from the pigtail on the t-case this way as you run the fork through its motion than removing them.
3) You don’t need the heater relay to jump the actuator. The details elude me, but it’s not necessary. Just run power from a 12v battery. Your actuator has to have FULL range of motion. I used to know off my head how it had to rotate. You can make sure it’s not corroded in there so that it has proper connections on the surface, but rebuilding it may be a lost cause. It has to be “TIMED” correctly. I would youtube it. I don’t have that on hand.
4) test your ADD sensor and buy a hand pump compressor. Plug your compressor into the vaccum lines and you should hear the ADD lock and unlock your front diff (you can confirm by turning the wheels). Again you can test the sensor pig tails without removing while it cycles through it’s range of motion
5) ECU is last resort and probably not the problem. You have 20 year old position sensors that all have to work, antique vacuum lines for the front diff, and a rather ˟˟˟˟ty actuator. If everything doesn’t work flawlessly the ecu thinks something is wrong and won’t complete the shift sequence
1) I think you can move your truck without the actuator in or without it plugged in. I never tried that specifically, but I don’t see why you couldn’t. You’ll get the flashing lights of death
2) Get to know what positions of the fork correspond to 4H, 4L, and 2wd. You can move it by hand with the actuator off. As the fork moves through it’s positions it depresses the lobes on the sensors (creates continuity) to send to the ecu. It’s WAY easier to test your sensors from the pigtail on the t-case this way as you run the fork through its motion than removing them.
3) You don’t need the heater relay to jump the actuator. The details elude me, but it’s not necessary. Just run power from a 12v battery. Your actuator has to have FULL range of motion. I used to know off my head how it had to rotate. You can make sure it’s not corroded in there so that it has proper connections on the surface, but rebuilding it may be a lost cause. It has to be “TIMED” correctly. I would youtube it. I don’t have that on hand.
4) test your ADD sensor and buy a hand pump compressor. Plug your compressor into the vaccum lines and you should hear the ADD lock and unlock your front diff (you can confirm by turning the wheels). Again you can test the sensor pig tails without removing while it cycles through it’s range of motion
5) ECU is last resort and probably not the problem. You have 20 year old position sensors that all have to work, antique vacuum lines for the front diff, and a rather ˟˟˟˟ty actuator. If everything doesn’t work flawlessly the ecu thinks something is wrong and won’t complete the shift sequence
01-26-2024, 05:55 PM
#14
Thank you
@Bronzey Thank you so much for the reply.
1) I went ahead and moved the truck without the actuator installed. So no issue there thankfully.
2) I was led to believe that the actuator shaft was set to neutral when all the way in and 2wd when all the way out which I have found to be correct. I have only observed that there is one stop in the middle which I assumed was 4wd. Is that not actually the case?
Also, major thanks for the tip to check the transfer case sensors while they are in the transfer case and using the shift mechanism to depress them. Really
cool thought. I haven’t seen or heard anyone else suggest that.
3) Good to know that I’m not damaging anything jumping without a relay involved. If what I’ve seen is correct ground to pin3 and power to pin2 sets the actuator to 2wd. My experience jumping the actuator in the vehicle leads me to think that it’s correct as it successfully brought the transfer case out of 4wd to 2wd. The reverse orientation of ground to pin2 and power to pin3 put it back into 4wd. I don’t know what configures it to neutral. Do you?
I have been able to check the motor motor and it looks really good. Very clean, no corrosion and all magnets solidly in place. However, I have a problem get to the part with the gear that spins as one of the bolts that holds the cover plate, and the pigtail bracket as well snapped off when I put the wrench to it. The other two came free without a struggle. The problem is that the cover is threaded as well and just the head of the bolt broke off so the cover is holding on. It looks like I’m going to have to drill which makes me really nervous as I dont want to booger up the threads and it’s not a small hole. Anyway, that’s my problem.
4) One I get the transfer case actuator worked out I will finish with the A.D.D. Really hoping I don’t the actuator but wouldn’t be surprised. A new one isn’t too expensive but $ is $. I am hoping I borrow a vacuum tester from O’Reilly Auto Parts but I’ll hit Harbor Freight if not.
5) Agreed on the ECU and hoping that is correct.
6) This prolly should have been sandwiched between 2 & 3. I am unclear on what mechanism actually causes the center diff to lock. Do you know? I know that when I pull the shifter back from H2-H4 into H4L it supposed to lock the center diff but I don’t know how exactly. I have heard that it was a switch and although there is a Center Diff Lock engagement indicator switch I see no evidence of Center Diff Lock switch in the manual. I have also been told that the shifter mechanically locks the diff but I’d really like to understand it better.
Thanks so much for replying. I hope you’ll stay with me for a bit. Peace
1) I went ahead and moved the truck without the actuator installed. So no issue there thankfully.
2) I was led to believe that the actuator shaft was set to neutral when all the way in and 2wd when all the way out which I have found to be correct. I have only observed that there is one stop in the middle which I assumed was 4wd. Is that not actually the case?
Also, major thanks for the tip to check the transfer case sensors while they are in the transfer case and using the shift mechanism to depress them. Really
cool thought. I haven’t seen or heard anyone else suggest that.
3) Good to know that I’m not damaging anything jumping without a relay involved. If what I’ve seen is correct ground to pin3 and power to pin2 sets the actuator to 2wd. My experience jumping the actuator in the vehicle leads me to think that it’s correct as it successfully brought the transfer case out of 4wd to 2wd. The reverse orientation of ground to pin2 and power to pin3 put it back into 4wd. I don’t know what configures it to neutral. Do you?
I have been able to check the motor motor and it looks really good. Very clean, no corrosion and all magnets solidly in place. However, I have a problem get to the part with the gear that spins as one of the bolts that holds the cover plate, and the pigtail bracket as well snapped off when I put the wrench to it. The other two came free without a struggle. The problem is that the cover is threaded as well and just the head of the bolt broke off so the cover is holding on. It looks like I’m going to have to drill which makes me really nervous as I dont want to booger up the threads and it’s not a small hole. Anyway, that’s my problem.
4) One I get the transfer case actuator worked out I will finish with the A.D.D. Really hoping I don’t the actuator but wouldn’t be surprised. A new one isn’t too expensive but $ is $. I am hoping I borrow a vacuum tester from O’Reilly Auto Parts but I’ll hit Harbor Freight if not.
5) Agreed on the ECU and hoping that is correct.
6) This prolly should have been sandwiched between 2 & 3. I am unclear on what mechanism actually causes the center diff to lock. Do you know? I know that when I pull the shifter back from H2-H4 into H4L it supposed to lock the center diff but I don’t know how exactly. I have heard that it was a switch and although there is a Center Diff Lock engagement indicator switch I see no evidence of Center Diff Lock switch in the manual. I have also been told that the shifter mechanically locks the diff but I’d really like to understand it better.
Thanks so much for replying. I hope you’ll stay with me for a bit. Peace
Last edited by MarzVegas; 01-26-2024 at 08:23 PM. Reason: Typo
01-26-2024, 08:45 PM
#15
A couple more questions
I managed to get the cover over the wheel and worm gear off and it looks pretty good except for one thing. I’m pretty sure there is supposed to be a bearing in the cap where the gear shaft goes. There was just some black grease instead? As it’s obvious that some jackhole has been messing with this project I figure that is the explanation. That someone has already been in there might explain why the one bolt snapped of so easily.
So question one, is there supposed to be a bearing in there or am I wrong?
I am going to try to take the actuator to a local machine shop tomorrow to see if they can extract the broken bolt and I’m hoping that they may have a bearing to replace the one I think is missing
Question two, when, or if, i can get the bolt extracted and I am ready to reassemble should I put gear oil in it first? There was enough in it when i took off the triangle shaped cover plate gear oil started dripping out. I figure it must be fed by the transfer case and it will eventually fill again but it seemed that it will be running dry when i first go to test it. If I’m not to prime it so to speak should I run the vehicle for awhile to allow time for the oil to replenish?
Thanks, Mario
So question one, is there supposed to be a bearing in there or am I wrong?
I am going to try to take the actuator to a local machine shop tomorrow to see if they can extract the broken bolt and I’m hoping that they may have a bearing to replace the one I think is missing
Question two, when, or if, i can get the bolt extracted and I am ready to reassemble should I put gear oil in it first? There was enough in it when i took off the triangle shaped cover plate gear oil started dripping out. I figure it must be fed by the transfer case and it will eventually fill again but it seemed that it will be running dry when i first go to test it. If I’m not to prime it so to speak should I run the vehicle for awhile to allow time for the oil to replenish?
Thanks, Mario
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