I hate to say I told you so at a time like this. But I told ya so.

My thoughts about a real off road truck through experience is that you try to keep it as low as possible, with as big as tire possible, to gain ground clearance(and approach angle and all that jazz) without getting the truck too top heavy.

Nothing wrong with those 315"s you got under there, just take the time to make them fit the right way w/o putting hockey pucks under your body. Cut the hell out of the firewall and out of the rear fenders and fenderwells. I can send you pics of when I was doin the front if it helps at all.

 

Yea sure thatd be great. I guess you did the trail less traveled route?

 

From my experience unless you have a ton of time, all the right tools and a lot of skill, trimming can cause more problems than it fixes.
Leaks, uglyness, etc...

I would just do the body lift since it's already on it's way and then maybe later on down the road put on a bigger suspension lift or go SAS with it.

Fink

 

Yes im going to do the body lift as soon as it gets here

my tires are being cut on my pinch weld

 

Are you still running wheel spacers? Spacers increase the arc of the front wheels when turning. They do increase the space between the tire and the UCA and the frame when turned. They will cause the outer edge of the tire to swing, when turned, to come closer the the wheelwells (in some cases cause rubbing). You may be able to remove the spacers of go with thinner ones to reduce rubbing.

Even with a body lift you are going to need to remove/pound the pinch weld flat. The BL isn't going to make the wheelwells any bigger.

 

I don't wheel that often, but I think I would avoid messing with the body just to fit some tires. A rear locker would be awesome though. Where in Ontario are you?

 

Yes I have 1.25'' spacers to push the tires away from the upper control arms. I could go smaller but they alredy rub the frame the tinniest bit at full lock so it would only be worse unfortuantly.

It looks like im going to get an elocker off a 99. Its a V6 and apparently has 4.56s in it, which I didnt know was even possible (thought 4.56s were only in the 4 bangers?)

Im in Pefferlaw...middle of nowhere, kindof near Newmarket if you know were that is

 

It'll be better than 3.90s of course, but 4.56s are still too high for 35s and IMO a waste of $$ since you'll have to regear the front to 4.56 too. If you're gonna spend the $$, I say get a better ratio for the tires you're running. It wouldn't be worth it to me just to get an elocker, I would much rather have 5.29s with an Aussie for that kind of $$.

 

Yea well either way I want the elocker, ill probly end up regearing both but im thinking 4.88s unless you guys convince me to do 5.29s

 

Well, with 35s and a SS 1.2, you're already well on your way to building a sweet trail rig so if it were me, I'd do 5.29s no question about it. If it's still going to be mostly a DD, then 4.88s w/ a 5 spd will suffice turning the 35s, but yours is quickly becoming a poor excuse for a DD (and I mean that in a good way).

 

hah yes well its definatly staying a DD, I had an integra at the same time with it last year and I just couldnt afford it on crappy apprentice wages and high male insurance rates

What do you think of your 4.88s? Would they not be enough for 35s? hows the power and rpms?

 

I suggested 35's would be too much, you decided to do otherwise. I then suggested flared fenders, you decided body lift.. so maybe I should suggest 4.88's an dyou will get 5.29's....

get the 5.29's.

 

haha, welllll.... I already had the 35s with the body lift on the way before I even started this

 

I have an auto so it's not exactly the same as yours, but my 4.88s would be just a little on the weak side for 35s. I think you'd be a little better off than me though since you have a 5 spd. If I was going to gear specifically for 35s I'd get 5.29s with an auto or a stick. But now that I already have 4.88s, if I were to go to 35's (which I am thinking about) I wouldn't bother regearing again because there's just not that HUGE of a difference between 2 adjacent gear ratios like 4.88s and 5.29s - at least not enough to warrant spending all that money all over again. You already have the 35s and with that big of a tire and 5.29s, freeway driving will still be fine.

 

Alright

 

I have an idea.

Sell the 35s and get some 33s (305/70-16). This will cure most of your rubbing issues.

Buy the e-locker with the 4.56 r&p. Re-gear the front to 4.56

Done. Problems solved and you saved money.

 

Its tempting but I dont know if I could ever go back to 35s now that I have them. I might just have to splurge and spend some extra $$

Has anyone heard of anything about the eaton elocker? there isnt much on here about them

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/5...please-192180/


I was looking at 4.88s based on what dark_fairytales said

quote:
"We can now take this same idea and match it to different engines, such as the 5vz, 7m or the 4.0. So here is the torque list for each engine and the stock ring and pinion ratio related to the engine:

5vze-fe 3.4L 220ft/lb @3600 / ring and pinion 3.90:1 / stock tire size 30”

7mge 3.0L 196ft/lb @4800 / ring and pinion 3.73:1 / stock tire size 24”

1ger-fe 4.0L 278ft/lb @3700 / ring and pinion 3.73:1/ stock tire size 30”

With the info stated above, you can now apply the same formula to engine swaps. You have one of two options when considering matching gears to an engine swap. Option one would be to match the ring and pinion to the truck you are swapping the engine into. Option two would be to match the gears to the stock ratio to the new swapped engine. Most people would choose option one as they usually have already invested in gears before they ever did the engine swap, so that is what I'm going to choose for the example. I'm going to use the 5vze-fe as the example, since it is a very popular swap. So the 3.4L has 220ft/lbs. We multiply that by 4.10 and end up with 902 ft/lbs at the axle, then divide by 109.9 which is the circumference of the 35”tire, and we now get 8.2. Now, I can finally show you where this simple, pea brain formula can lead you. 8.2 is much higher then 6.5 but the problem is the peak torque on the 3.4L is at 3600 rpms, which will cause a huge error in this simple formula. To say the least, you would end up with bad acceleration and nasty free way behavior. This shows option two is the better way to go and takes the guess work out of all this. Running the formula again we multiply 220ft/lb to 3.90 and divide by 94.2 inches, which is the circumference of the stock 30” tire, we end up with 9.1. Lets try to match that newly swapped engine to some gears using 35”tires.

4.10gears = 8.2

4.30gears = 8.6

4.56gears = 9.1

4.88gears = 9.7

5.29gears = 10.5

5.71gears = 11.4

With luck, there is a gear set to match our stock 9.1 and that is the 4.56:1. Now, the choice from here would be yours: go with the 4.56, or go for a little more seat of your pants fun with the 4.88. "

 

That's a nice formula, but 4.56 w/ 35s would be just plain dumb IMO.

 

Reading all of this makes me think about getting my gears done. I have 265 75 16s with 2.5 of lift. But I have the 2.7 which according to this means I have 4.56s? Novice mind here so if you could school me that would be great