3.90s with 35s
#1
3.90s with 35s
So I just got my ss 1.2 kit and new rims, and was trying to decide to go 33s or 35s and get a body lift as well. The only problem is im running stock 3.90 gears untill next year. Seems like alot of people end up wanting to upgrade their 33s so I figured I could go straight for the 35s. Im not worried about gas millage or power, just the stress it might cause on the engine and drivetrain, any sugestions? Ive got the 3.4 with 265/75/16s and it seems to have decent power
#2
35s will definitely put more stress on your steering and drivetrain, the question is how much is too much? If you wheel a lot (which judging by your avatar I'd say yes) you probably will break stuff easier than if you run 33s. It all depends on how hard you drive. Personally, I don't think I'll go to 35s unless I SAS because I would rather have more strength for off roading than 1" more ground clearance.
3.90s w/ 35s would be way too annoying for me to deal with.
3.90s w/ 35s would be way too annoying for me to deal with.
Last edited by brian2sun; 03-17-2010 at 08:32 PM.
#3
Well I ordered my 33s but was having regrets so I switched the order to 35s. Apparently a 35 is only 7 pounds heavier than a 33 so im gonna go for it. Im hoping my door sticker is wrong and I dont have 3.90s because it also says I have 215s on a 15 inch rim or something crazy like that and I bought it with 265/70s on 16inch alloys. I really dont wana be blowing up my transmission or burning out my clutch but I guess ill see soon enough
#4
Did ya try and just rotate your wheels and count the revolutions in respect to the drive shaft!?
I run 35's and 4.30's...It was more of a drain when I switched to 33's and steel rims than to 35's.
I run 35's and 4.30's...It was more of a drain when I switched to 33's and steel rims than to 35's.
#5
WOW not sure the 3.90's are going to work out real well with the 35's BUT if you know what your doing and how to do it the 35's are not going to be much different then the 33's. I wheel my IFS 2nd gen on 35's and have not had any real issue's out of the ordinary with them at all but I did have to go from 4.10's to 5.29's to get it to run down the road right lo l
#6
#7
yes according to my axel code it says I have 3.90s and no I have not turned my driveshaft. I guess just divide driveshaft rotations by turns of the wheel or how does it work? And yes I have alloys so im hoping itll be a little bit better
I was hoping to get 4.88s and 2 arbs but I got quoted $5000 canadian so im going to have to wait now
I was hoping to get 4.88s and 2 arbs but I got quoted $5000 canadian so im going to have to wait now
Last edited by elmerfudd_22; 03-26-2010 at 05:03 PM.
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#10
It will be slow as hell, but you'll be bogging down everywhere which will burn fuel very inefficiently, kill your mpgs and will reduce the life of your engine and other components like your O2s and cat because it will get dirtier much faster.
#11
Well i guess im going to have to save up for gears then, but even just to regear no lockers I got quoted 500 per axel seems a bit high. Will alloys be strong enough with 35s and wheel spacers?
Last edited by elmerfudd_22; 03-26-2010 at 06:34 PM.
#12
You think it will be that bad even with the 5-speed? Obviously stopping/starting will be slightly annoying because of the lack of torque...but once he's rolling, if he works the hardware correctly, it should drive ok I would think.
#13
I think a 5 speed will be a little better than an auto but still bad. If you live in a pretty flat area it may be more tolerable and the long term stuff like engine life might not be much of an issue. If you live in a mountain town like me or in the hills it would be like having the power of a 22r with the gas mileage of a 5.7.
If you can remove your own 3rds, eastcoastgearsupply will ship you new 3rds with the ratio of your choice and you send them your old ones back for a core.
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/c-622...lamshells.html
If you can remove your own 3rds, eastcoastgearsupply will ship you new 3rds with the ratio of your choice and you send them your old ones back for a core.
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/c-622...lamshells.html
#14
the 5spd will be better but overall.. on/off road is gonna have it's long-term effects. Not only will you have a power loss, more work on the motor, tranny, gears, etc... but you're start & STOPPING power will be effected. So be sure you're ready to compensate for all this.
#15
Yes well I do live in a relatively flat country area luckily. I think the cheapest thing for me to do is to just settle for the elocker for the rear and regear the diffs asap. I am an apprentice but we havent gotten to diffs in school yet, how hard is regearing, I could deffinatly pull the thirds at least.
Does ECGS ship to Canada?
Does ECGS ship to Canada?
Last edited by elmerfudd_22; 03-26-2010 at 11:26 PM.
#16
Alright first off, nothing wrong with 35's. I have not broken a CV shaft in 6 months(knock on wood) and i wheel the piss out of my IFS 3rd gen on 35's. If you DO run 35's and you do some serious wheelin, you going to need to trim. from cutting your fire wall back to chopping your rear fender right up to the door frame.
As for the gears, you dont want to do tires then gears and locker(s). Do the gears first. trust me, you ll fry your clutch faster than you think. Also if you do 35's, screw 4.88's, no reason not to do 5.29's. Shoot my 5.29's are not even low enough anymore and I am in the procces of doing transfer case gears (from 2.7 to 4.7). If you on a budget dont look at ARB, you can buy a rear locker for under 300 from lock right or aussie, and spend the money you saved on skid plates.
As for the gears, you dont want to do tires then gears and locker(s). Do the gears first. trust me, you ll fry your clutch faster than you think. Also if you do 35's, screw 4.88's, no reason not to do 5.29's. Shoot my 5.29's are not even low enough anymore and I am in the procces of doing transfer case gears (from 2.7 to 4.7). If you on a budget dont look at ARB, you can buy a rear locker for under 300 from lock right or aussie, and spend the money you saved on skid plates.
#17
Well im just trying to get it closer to stock, wouldnt 5.29s be over doing it,it is a daily driver. Oh and I have a 2'' bodylift from 4crawler on the way too so they should clear pretty good.
Last edited by elmerfudd_22; 03-27-2010 at 12:09 AM.
#20
Bottomline is, can you run 35's with 3.90's? Of course you can.
Is it preferred, definitely not.
The combination of the 2" body lift, the suspension lift and 35's is going to make for a pretty cumbersome ride.
If I were you, I would have just gone with the suspension and 33's but I realize that it's too late for that.
Just be smart about it - shift smart and be sure to keep up on your maintenance and don't rev it too hard.
I'd suggest checking your CV's and steering components regularly just as a precautionary measure but the fact is, a lot of people run 35's and even bigger on IFS rigs.
What kind of 35's did you get?
Fink
Is it preferred, definitely not.
The combination of the 2" body lift, the suspension lift and 35's is going to make for a pretty cumbersome ride.
If I were you, I would have just gone with the suspension and 33's but I realize that it's too late for that.
Just be smart about it - shift smart and be sure to keep up on your maintenance and don't rev it too hard.
I'd suggest checking your CV's and steering components regularly just as a precautionary measure but the fact is, a lot of people run 35's and even bigger on IFS rigs.
What kind of 35's did you get?
Fink