3.0L is out, what to replace before going back in?
#1
3.0L is out, what to replace before going back in?
I've got a new (to me) 3.0L motor with 88,000 miles sitting on an engine stand, what should I replace on the motor before I shove it in my 1990 4runner?
I'm thinking a timing chain is manditory, but what elst should I replace while the moto is easy to work on?
also are there good online places to buy parts at good prices?
thanks
I'm thinking a timing chain is manditory, but what elst should I replace while the moto is easy to work on?
also are there good online places to buy parts at good prices?
thanks
#5
You want to swap out the steel freeze plugs with brass ones - the steelies like to rust through. You want to ground the outer shield of the knock sensor wire ot the block somewhere.
Hell I'd pull the heads and inspect them very closely for cracks or warpage. If no issues, then I'd find some head studs and have a copper crush gasket made for the heads with the same quench distance as the OEM unit. As I understand it the rods are pretty stout in the 3vze and with a new copper HG and head studs, you've just corrected the ONLY issues this engine ever had...
I understand that larger valves and larger injectors also help too...
After that point you can do a TON of power mods due to the low CR through forced induction or if you go NA you can still put on headers.
Hell I'd pull the heads and inspect them very closely for cracks or warpage. If no issues, then I'd find some head studs and have a copper crush gasket made for the heads with the same quench distance as the OEM unit. As I understand it the rods are pretty stout in the 3vze and with a new copper HG and head studs, you've just corrected the ONLY issues this engine ever had...
I understand that larger valves and larger injectors also help too...
After that point you can do a TON of power mods due to the low CR through forced induction or if you go NA you can still put on headers.
#6
Originally Posted by Eric
I've got a new (to me) 3.0L motor with 88,000 miles sitting on an engine stand, what should I replace on the motor before I shove it in my 1990 4runner?
I'm thinking a timing chain is manditory, but what elst should I replace while the moto is easy to work on?
also are there good online places to buy parts at good prices?
thanks
I'm thinking a timing chain is manditory, but what elst should I replace while the moto is easy to work on?
also are there good online places to buy parts at good prices?
thanks
Knock sensor and wire, tune-up, take that crossover off and replace it, it's a power robber and a half.
www.toyotaworld.com, www.performanceparts.com, www.butlertoyota.com,
www.toyotaoemparts.com, www.truckperformance.com
Good Luck!
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#8
I would change the oil pan and valve cover gaskets for sure. Another thing that would suck once you got the engine back in would be leaking crankshaft seals. I would replace them too. If you're gonna stick with the stock exhaust set up, install new flange gaskets for both the manifolds and pipes.
Good Luck
Good Luck
#10
at least do the V cover gaskets!
I would at least change out the valve cover gaskets and cam seals. I would also change the water pump and timing belt while the engine is out of your rig. I just did all of this on my 88 and it SUCKED. When the day comes to pull my 3.0 out I will install headers. For $500 it is well worth it while the engine is out to install them now! OR you could make a custom cross over pipe turning your stock exhaust manifolds into a set of home grown headers; the cross over pipe dumping backwards up into the other side is by far the most restricted exhaust system I’ve ever seen! But at the least put the $ into a set of gaskets, timing belt and H2O pump now, and get OEM parts! Have fun, you’re lucky its out, the water pump and valve cover gasket job SUCKED, did I mention how bad it SUCKED?
#11
A minor rebuild might be the ticket if you have the time and a little extra money. The bottom end is probably good, with the replacement of crank seals. New waterpump, and timing belt.
Pull the heads, get 'em ported, polished and maybe over size valves. Find out how much oversize NUNSA went with his valves. Match the exhaust ports to a set of headers. Polish the intake, and match it to your heads. New head bolts and gasket. There's a new headgasket out on the market that is supposed to do a superior job on engines that are prone to headgasket failure...I'll see if I can't locate more info on it. New gaskets all through the top end. Oversize TB. And that should do it.
Pull the heads, get 'em ported, polished and maybe over size valves. Find out how much oversize NUNSA went with his valves. Match the exhaust ports to a set of headers. Polish the intake, and match it to your heads. New head bolts and gasket. There's a new headgasket out on the market that is supposed to do a superior job on engines that are prone to headgasket failure...I'll see if I can't locate more info on it. New gaskets all through the top end. Oversize TB. And that should do it.
#12
well I was hoping to not pull the heads. I'm going to do a compression and leak down test today to see If I need to or not.
I did notice that there was a pretty large amount of sludge in the intake manifold after the TB. what normally is the cause of this? EGR valve, or a leaky 7th injector?
here are some pics of the sludge
looking from the TB down the intake manifold...
also the Timing belt looked pretty good, is there any indicators to determine the age of the belt?
I did notice that there was a pretty large amount of sludge in the intake manifold after the TB. what normally is the cause of this? EGR valve, or a leaky 7th injector?
here are some pics of the sludge
looking from the TB down the intake manifold...
also the Timing belt looked pretty good, is there any indicators to determine the age of the belt?
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