3.0 head gasket
#1
3.0 head gasket
Yep its my turn...saw the drops coming out the tailpipe and started puffing the steam. Plus it runs pretty rough. So I figured this is my DD and noone will pay me jack for a 4runner with a junked up motor I've decided to get another remanufactured 3.0. Anyone got any good leads on reputable places to buy remanufactured 3.0's? I've heard some of them can be a rip off and thats the last thing I need now. Done with the searching for 3 hours...so that advice won't help Also I'm planning this as a weekend project for a budget of around $3,000 if that helps...and is this doable with all the air tools and engine hoist in 1 weekend and would it be easier to pull the tranny with or without the motor? Any help would be appreciated....
#3
Because I know as soon as I just replace the head gasket then something will happen like a valve will screw up or my oil pump go out or.....if it can happen then it will happen to me! If its new then that eases my mind a little better plus it would be good to go for a while. Then maybe I could start saving instead of dumping money into it left and right when it breaks down. Plus the motor has over 220,000 miles on it now...
#5
Why not do a short block then? Why screw around with putting a different engine in there? And while you're at it huck some headers and an exhaust on that badboy and you'll be laughing.
#6
Originally Posted by CoedNaked
Why not do a short block then? Why screw around with putting a different engine in there? And while you're at it huck some headers and an exhaust on that badboy and you'll be laughing.
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#9
I'd imagine a shortblock rebuild would be a lot cheaper than the reman right? And with that cost will have money left over for other things should they need fixing IE Rad, tranny work, diff, etc. If you can descent short block rebuild it'll go for a long time with no issues.
#10
Originally Posted by CoedNaked
I'd imagine a shortblock rebuild would be a lot cheaper than the reman right? And with that cost will have money left over for other things should they need fixing IE Rad, tranny work, diff, etc. If you can descent short block rebuild it'll go for a long time with no issues.
#11
Ya I'd just go and replace the headgasket, water pump, timing belt etc. But if you're going to go the route of a new engine then I'd stay away from Jasper/Yamato as I've heard they aren't very well rebuilt (burns oil etc.) and ya you should be able to do it in a weekend with air tools and an engine hoist...you just need to figure out where you're going to put the new one before it goes in and the old one after it comes out.
#12
Timing belt and everything else has been changed out. So would it be better to pull the tranny out at the same time or no? I noticed on ebay that most of the sellers don't give you the intake manifold or timing set up. Although I saw this one company called greenleaf recyclers that already had this on their motors for a reasonable price and small core.
#13
hehehehe why do I smell a write up?
HOW TO: Swap your engine! I would love seeing pics and reading it. You have a TFSM?
Why not do a 7mgte swap - what would that cost ya? Just throwing out an idea is all And what will you do with this 3vze you are pulling
HOW TO: Swap your engine! I would love seeing pics and reading it. You have a TFSM?
Why not do a 7mgte swap - what would that cost ya? Just throwing out an idea is all And what will you do with this 3vze you are pulling
#14
Originally Posted by Bumpin' Yota
hehehehe why do I smell a write up?
HOW TO: Swap your engine! I would love seeing pics and reading it. You have a TFSM?
Why not do a 7mgte swap - what would that cost ya? Just throwing out an idea is all And what will you do with this 3vze you are pulling
HOW TO: Swap your engine! I would love seeing pics and reading it. You have a TFSM?
Why not do a 7mgte swap - what would that cost ya? Just throwing out an idea is all And what will you do with this 3vze you are pulling
#15
do you have AC? if so that was one of the hardest parts when i helped my dad pull the V6 out of his Runner...trying to get it wedged off to the side without kinking any lines and findung a place to bungee it. I dunno about easyness when we pulled his we pulled the transmission and tcase but it you've got sdomething to hold the transmission up then id leave it in.
#16
Yeh I got AC. Gotta big floor jack to hold the tranny up so it shouldn't be a problem as far as that is concerned. Should I unbolt the manifolds from the heads before I take it out or just take it loose from the drivers side exhaust? As far as unbolting the tranny from the motor I just gotta get all the bellhousing bolts out right? Bet thats a pain to get to the top bolts. Just gotta good lead on a motor that a guy down the road put in his 90 4runner that is $1995 and $425 core which the price of the motor has shipping to me and my old core shipped to them included. The place is called Orient Engines out of Kentucky which they specialize in foreign motors. Also checking into new injectors not unless I can have them sent somewhere to be cleaned out by someone else for a much smaller charge than new injectors. Any inputs on the injectors? I know I'm putting new seals in them before they go back in.
#17
http://www.cruzinperformance.com/ does it also look locally for a place that does ultrasonic cleaniong and flow testing/balancing. I think mine was $75-80 here locally, but i guess those ultrasonic cleaning machine things are kinda rare. If you can't find a place then you can send em my way if you need to (its acorss the country tho...kinda last resort on your side im guessing) and I'll get em cleaned up and shipped back. On the exhaust my dads had the factory exhaust so we just took a sawzall to it as the bolts were all seized in and pulled the motor with the manifolds and cross over on it. Put in headers while its out....that's the best advice I can give you as it does make a lot of difference (engine runs cooler, more power, better fuel economy etc.) and its ALOT easier with the motor out then with it all back in and put back together. I'm pretty sure its just the bellhousing bolts just watch the clutch line when you pull the motor.
#18
Originally Posted by Silver_Truck
http://www.cruzinperformance.com/ does it also look locally for a place that does ultrasonic cleaniong and flow testing/balancing. I think mine was $75-80 here locally, but i guess those ultrasonic cleaning machine things are kinda rare. If you can't find a place then you can send em my way if you need to (its acorss the country tho...kinda last resort on your side im guessing) and I'll get em cleaned up and shipped back. On the exhaust my dads had the factory exhaust so we just took a sawzall to it as the bolts were all seized in and pulled the motor with the manifolds and cross over on it. Put in headers while its out....that's the best advice I can give you as it does make a lot of difference (engine runs cooler, more power, better fuel economy etc.) and its ALOT easier with the motor out then with it all back in and put back together. I'm pretty sure its just the bellhousing bolts just watch the clutch line when you pull the motor.
#19
No problem...just let me know when you want to. I dunno about the tranny cooler as I've got a manual. Ya once everything is unbolted it should slide right apart. See how it goes budget wise but i you can swing it then do the headers. Let me know if you need any help along the way, although I can't really lend a hand I can try to help you out with any probs.
#20
I appreciate it One last question about the header crossover...did you guys go with a crossover from the header manufacturer or have one custom made? I have 2.25" brand new exhaust and high flow cat and flowmaster so it should compliment it great. So I guess Downey makes the best headers? I've heard NWOR is crappy all around and I will deal heavily with people that are great in customer service! Also I am doing the denso Iridium plugs too...how are they working out for ya? Thinking about some good MSD wires too to give me a little better spark too.
Last edited by callmej75; 08-21-2005 at 10:30 AM.