Radny's is running an internet special for our diffs. I think it is for front and rear gears and master(?) install kits for something like $389 (Yukon gears). Seems like quite the bargain.

 

ok, I dont want body damage, so I wont go on the trails where I cna go that far off camber, tip and ding up stuff, so I could go wiht the 3" body lift, I want my truck to 4by well, but also look BURLY. 4 inch pro comp lift, 3 " BL, 35" tires. oh yeah. might be buying one soon since the teg crapped out and I dont have the time to fix it yet, so Ill drive the yota til I finish my move and then fix the teg later, just needs a new clutch but I cant take the time off right now to do so, I need a vehicle too. so wihth the detroit ez locker it locks it up completely, no way to unlockl it? and I guess I dont need a front locker at all, if I ever do I will get one. ARB is so expensive though, 650 bucks plus 200 for the compressor. the detroit was only 240. any cheaper lockers that are on/off not just locked 24/7?

 

Toyota E-Locker is less, but it requires modifications to the housing. Would you do this yourself?

 

Auto lockers aren't locked all the time. They lock when you apply torque to the drive shaft. When you are coasting they unlock and ratchet. Spools are locked all the time. (you don't want one for a DD, especially if you aren't wheeling hard, they eat tires on the street) As mentioned, the Toy electric is another option. With auto lockers, they can lock/unlock while turning on the road (depends on your right foot) making occasional loud banging noises and quirky jolts. This might be inconvenient but we all get used to it and always have done so, it's no biggie. The selectables let you turn them off totally so you don't get the quirks.

The way I see it, you have an IFS truck, high lift/CG, no rock protection, this equals mellow trails due to flop risk alone. I'd say get the rear detroit and don't worry about the rest for now. When you are going places where you need more capability, the first things you'll do are remove the BL, get rock sliders, and bumpers. Then, if that doesn't cut it, you're ready to talk ARB's and the likes.

Frank.

 

oh, I am for sure going to make my own rock sliders like on this site. http://www.larsdennert.com/4runner/sliders

and the BL wont go on unless my tires dont look like they have enoug clearance. and I will amke my own front/rear tube stel bumpers as well, I got a winch mount in mind too that lets me move it to front or back bumper very quickly and not leave it on just in case I hit somehting major where the winch would be and damage it. and about the loclers, most likely I would do it myslef, rear seems like it wouldnt be so difficult, front sounds a bit more labor intensive and more treardown of stuff, but I usually try and do everything myself, I have swapped auto to manual oin my civic, replaced my friends integra clutch, doing my tegs clutch soon, rebuilt my VW engine. only thing I ever paid to have done was my transfer case on my chevy full size leaked slowly and I was just gonna split it and put a bead of that RTV silicone crap but could not get that case to split, didnt havce a bok either though, might have done it myself if I had to but I know the local mechanic so i got it split, he put in the ooze and bolted it back up for me for 40 bucks.

 

Sounds like you got it wired. Those are good sliders, I've seen in person.

little advice from someone else who also likes to do things his self (me), get an inch/lb torque wrench and a press. Without them, the likelyhood for success goes way down and difficulty way up. They might be pricey but they are worth it.

The front diff is harder than the rear

Frank.

 

I know the local mechanic and his shop is just down the street from my house and if I ever need to presss anything I can go there, hew has one that has the base slide up and down and then a bottle jack pushes the ram down, he just doesnt have the piston pin pressing tool so I had to go elsewhere for that, but what do you do that requires only in/lbs of torque, that isnt much.