22RE Tech Question - Timing Chain
#21
i have almost no life and researched all this, thats why i know about it
HAHA. I've nearly finished researching it, and ill be done when i find a better price than $80 for a set of metal guides. I will do this.
I must.
#22
they are all $80 for the metal guides from the manufactures that make them.... doa and lce arent the only ones who make them, i did find a couple of other companies, but doa and lce are the most reputable.... and everyone elses guides for both sides are $80
#23
Hmmm. Well the only thing I can think of, to be thrifty, is to search the lists in eBay and watch till a set pops up, and grab the discount. But there's no way to tell when a set will be there, so there's always D.O.A. and LCE...
#26
Oh, and does anyone have ANY idea how long after I get the death rattle that I have till i'm done for? Please, tell me because I just got a new job and my truck has to last for about another 2-3 weeks with the rattle. Is that ok? Is it borderline?
Donny
Donny
#28
Originally Posted by jimabena74
...i still beat on it daily and have had no problems knock on wood.....
As they say, famous last words...
But as a fellow Toyota owner, I certainly hope your rig (and mine)will last until you (and I)properly service it.
hmmm... never used this smiley before...
#29
Oh you said they both have the top part cracked off? So did you spy through the valve cover like you suggested in another thread down the board (that is also about timing chains)? Or did you pull the timing chain cover?
#31
It is not too bad to do the timing chain on a 22R without removing the head.
There are a couple of things you will need to do to make it work for you though.
Remove the oil pan. just loosening it and pulling it down some is almost guaranteeing an oil leak. I know this sounds like a pain to you guys with 4WDs, but it really isn't that hard if you just do it.
Before removing the timing cover remove the oil pump and it's drive sleeve . This will give you more clearance geting the cover off and especially back on.
Make sure you get the headgasket clean and dry at the front of the block so that you can get the sealer to stick to it. And for heavens sake, don't get cheesy and buy the blue or clear RTV. get the stuff that is made for automotive applications such as "ultra black or gray", or "the Right Stuff"
I've seen so many of these come into my shop leakig at the junction between the head, block, and timing cover and it can be prevented if you just follow the precautions I've listed.
Targetnut
There are a couple of things you will need to do to make it work for you though.
Remove the oil pan. just loosening it and pulling it down some is almost guaranteeing an oil leak. I know this sounds like a pain to you guys with 4WDs, but it really isn't that hard if you just do it.
Before removing the timing cover remove the oil pump and it's drive sleeve . This will give you more clearance geting the cover off and especially back on.
Make sure you get the headgasket clean and dry at the front of the block so that you can get the sealer to stick to it. And for heavens sake, don't get cheesy and buy the blue or clear RTV. get the stuff that is made for automotive applications such as "ultra black or gray", or "the Right Stuff"
I've seen so many of these come into my shop leakig at the junction between the head, block, and timing cover and it can be prevented if you just follow the precautions I've listed.
Targetnut
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