22RE intake valve
#1
22RE intake valve
Did a CLDT and found #3 leaking thru the intake valve. Not being a yota tech I'm wondering if there are any special things to watch for with the #3 intake valve. IE: is that a known head cracking area?
A little history. '88 p/u 22re 4wd. Picked her up for $400 after she sat at a shop for over a year with a previous overheat condition as far as I was told. The chain and guides were wasted, so I replaced those. Then did a leakdown test and found a blown headgasket between #1 and #2. Replaced the hg that day. Still hard to start with a miss. I got around to checking valve adjustment today and found that three valves were way too tight, so I figured maybe a slightly burned exhaust valve that I couldn't detect doing the cheap and dirty headgasket install while half drunk a couple weeks ago right... After the valve adjustment she starts right up, but still has a good miss.
So today I find 100% leakage into the intake on #3. All the rest of the cylinders are excellent. I didn't remove the head today so I don't have a visual yet.
Also, how are BAP Import intake valves? They are $8.99 a piece, and I was wondering if anyone has used them with success or are they to be avoided?
Thanks for any insight. This truck is Crown King bound with a just a little bit more TLC.
A little history. '88 p/u 22re 4wd. Picked her up for $400 after she sat at a shop for over a year with a previous overheat condition as far as I was told. The chain and guides were wasted, so I replaced those. Then did a leakdown test and found a blown headgasket between #1 and #2. Replaced the hg that day. Still hard to start with a miss. I got around to checking valve adjustment today and found that three valves were way too tight, so I figured maybe a slightly burned exhaust valve that I couldn't detect doing the cheap and dirty headgasket install while half drunk a couple weeks ago right... After the valve adjustment she starts right up, but still has a good miss.
So today I find 100% leakage into the intake on #3. All the rest of the cylinders are excellent. I didn't remove the head today so I don't have a visual yet.
Also, how are BAP Import intake valves? They are $8.99 a piece, and I was wondering if anyone has used them with success or are they to be avoided?
Thanks for any insight. This truck is Crown King bound with a just a little bit more TLC.
Last edited by Van91DSM; 10-02-2005 at 10:20 PM.
#2
Got another question about the FSM's...
I found a source for some new '88 yota shop manuals. Cost on the four of them is $244 from http://www.books4cars.com
The four of them are: Wiring Diagrams, Chassis Service, 4cyl Engine Service and Body & Electrical, all by Toyota. Anybody know of a cheaper source or maybe has them on a CD like we have for DSM's?
I found a source for some new '88 yota shop manuals. Cost on the four of them is $244 from http://www.books4cars.com
The four of them are: Wiring Diagrams, Chassis Service, 4cyl Engine Service and Body & Electrical, all by Toyota. Anybody know of a cheaper source or maybe has them on a CD like we have for DSM's?
#3
get valves from lc engineering or www.engnbldr.com
you are going to have to do the head gasket all over again, as the head needs to come off to replace a valve...
$244 is quite good... the factory fsm for my truck was $100 from the dealer
you are going to have to do the head gasket all over again, as the head needs to come off to replace a valve...
$244 is quite good... the factory fsm for my truck was $100 from the dealer
Last edited by jimabena74; 10-03-2005 at 12:07 AM.
#4
Originally Posted by jimabena74
you are going to have to do the head gasket all over again, as the head needs to come off to replace a valve...
#5
I have bought several off EBAY. Usually $50-100 set
Here is a 88 PU/4Runner service manual.......I think it it complete, but it is LOOSE (spine cut)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1988-...spagenameZWDVW
I think 88 was complete in 1 book, the 85, 86, and 87 sets I have seen were. 89 went to separate book for systems, and also separated the truck and 4Runner
Here is a 88 PU/4Runner service manual.......I think it it complete, but it is LOOSE (spine cut)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1988-...spagenameZWDVW
I think 88 was complete in 1 book, the 85, 86, and 87 sets I have seen were. 89 went to separate book for systems, and also separated the truck and 4Runner
Last edited by Yoda; 10-03-2005 at 05:39 AM.
#6
Project '88 yota update: She lives! I have a lean, mean, bug killing, 4wd machine that runs excellent now.
After popping the head off, I found that it actually needed all of the intake valves. #3 was severely bent, #2 and #4 were bent just enough to leak a tiny bit, #1 sealed very well but was extremely worn. So I did all of the exhaust valves and the guide seals while I was in there too. I also replaced the fuel filter and every single coolant hose while I had it all apart. I also replaced the heater valve with the newer model. Much to my dismay, one of the head bolt holes needed a heli-coil, which cost me $50 extra, ouch.
So far she's gotten a new chain & guides, hg, valves, stem seals, coolant hoses, new fluids everywhere (I put some MT90 in the trans,) plugs, cap, rotor, all upper gaskets, new bolts that were left off or broken by previous shops/owner, gas tank drained and refilled, etc. Just lots of TLC.
New wheels and tires are next. It also looks like she'll need a rad cap, a new rear window, the rear t/c seal, the front diff pinion seal and the oil pan resealed. Just gotta put some daily driven miles on her now.
After popping the head off, I found that it actually needed all of the intake valves. #3 was severely bent, #2 and #4 were bent just enough to leak a tiny bit, #1 sealed very well but was extremely worn. So I did all of the exhaust valves and the guide seals while I was in there too. I also replaced the fuel filter and every single coolant hose while I had it all apart. I also replaced the heater valve with the newer model. Much to my dismay, one of the head bolt holes needed a heli-coil, which cost me $50 extra, ouch.
So far she's gotten a new chain & guides, hg, valves, stem seals, coolant hoses, new fluids everywhere (I put some MT90 in the trans,) plugs, cap, rotor, all upper gaskets, new bolts that were left off or broken by previous shops/owner, gas tank drained and refilled, etc. Just lots of TLC.
New wheels and tires are next. It also looks like she'll need a rad cap, a new rear window, the rear t/c seal, the front diff pinion seal and the oil pan resealed. Just gotta put some daily driven miles on her now.
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