Your taking that in the wrong context. If you constantly slam the throttle and top out every gear to get to 80, then yes, there's a probability your motor won't live as long as you hope. There is no magic combination of longevity and power in an automotive engine. Contestant heavy use of an engine yields heavy wear.

Take two comparisons. A top fuel drag engine makes massive amounts of power, BUT it gets rebuilt after every single run, with all worn parts being replaced.

On the other end of the spectrum, a over the road semi usual goes between 1-2 million miles between overhauls with regular maintenance.

A truck driver uses his power conservatively, and gets a big return in longevity. The top fueler uses power wight reckless abandon, and the result is more work for more power.

Basically, I'm just saying don't drive like a pissed off teenager all the time, and keep up on your maintenance, and you "SHOULD" be fine, chances are, this failure was a fluke, like I said in my last post.

And just to calm your nerves a little more, I've never seen a 4.0 1GR fail that wasn't abused and neglected.

 

so now I'm in the middle of pulling the motor. The harness seems to go over the timing pulley area and down the drivers side and along the driver side and over the top of the tranny. I disconnected the wires from the ecu and pulled them through the firewall but I see no connectors to separate the harness from the part that runs to the tranny, so it looks like I have to remove the upper plenum and disconnect everything so I can pull the motor. Has anyone pulled a 3.4 successfully with harness and all, without pulling the tranny first?

 

I mid throttle most of the time. Not to light not to heavy.... Usually it shifts at about a 3 on the rpm meter. I keep up with most of my maintenance. Right now i am saving for a transmission flush

 

I would just unplug all the connectors on the trans. It's not too difficult. If memory serves me correct, there are only 5 or 6 connectors down there. Two o2 sensors, the main trans connector, and maybe two or three to the tcase.

And the warrior, make sure that wherever you get your transmission flushed, they use genuine toyota W/S transmission fluid. Not some additive that says it will "bring dexron" up to the standards of W/S. That will kill the transmission, guaranteed. Just to be safe, I would have a dealer do it. Believe it or not, we know how to do it right lol.

 

Ok I'll do that. Also a couple more questions.... Do I need to remove the 6 bolts on the torque converter to pull the motor?
I was thinking of using an automotive tie down bridged across the frame and under the tranny to support its weight. What do u guys think?
What is the easiest way to remove the 6 bell housing bolts?
Starter bolts?
Thanks for all the help guys.

 

Remove the starter, then pull the torque converter bolts.

The ratchet strap idea should work for the time being, but if you plan on having the truck tore apart for a while, I would use a floor jack.

The bell housing bolts are gonna be kind of a pain. If you really wanted, you could get ahold of a tool dealer (snap on, matco, Mac or Cornwell) and buy a transmission extension. It will be about 3-4 foot long, with 3/8 drive on the socket end, and 1/2 drive on the drive end.

 

^^ Definitely get a hold of 3-4 feet of extensions. A wobbly adapter will also help. It's so much fun :-)

 

9/10 if a lower mileage motor grenades like that its because its most likely been abused at an earlier date. The original owner probably drilled the hell out of it, and even though it might be a Toyota, all motors require a break in period. Catastrophic failures are not unheard of, and they do happen. Sorry to hear this is happening to you.

 

Just to show it off, here's mine. The small one is a 6" for comparison. Like I said, the socket end is a 3/8 drive, and the driven end is a 1/2 drive.

 

I didn't read earlier posts, but it's definitely do-able to pull the motor and tranny together. I've done it, and I think it's easier than trying to separate motor from tranny then re-attaching. Of course you'll have to remove the trans crossmember, but it can be done!

 

Man I'm just messing with you. Internet sarcasm is hard to pick up sometimes. It's even healthy for a motor to run high RPMs every now and then. That 4.0 is one stout sucker. I had one in a 2wd 4runner sport and holy moly ZOOOM!

 

You had me PARANOID!!! LOL!!!!!

 

Got everything undone except bell housing bolts. Just waiting for the cheepo harbor freight crane to show up!!!

 

Never seen one grenade like that, I have 100k of very hard miles on my T100 3.4L with no issues. Barely uses any oil and Im not easy on it at all.

 

Pictures!!!!

 

Ouch!

 

That's what my wallet said!!!!!

 

Holy hell

 

That was a fun day pulling the motor. Thanks for the Turkey Burger and beers. I'm sure I will be over a few more times before this taco is back on the road. I'd be interested in finding out why this motor threw a rod but I doubt we will. The 3.4 has such a good reputation, surprised to read some of the earlier post.

 

So the bearing looked good on the thrown rod? Or were there any weird wear patterns?