2000 Tacoma brake question
#1
2000 Tacoma brake question
I have a 2000 Tacoma 4wd that I have been working on for a while. The brakes worked great till I replaced one of the lines that go into the rear proportioning valve. I bled the brakes and weird ,just rear brakes locking up. I replaced the front calipers and pads and bled all brakes and still the rear only locks up. If I jack the truck up and have someone press the brakes I can still turn the wheels up front. The fluid does comes out the bleeder nipples when I bleed them though. What could cause this?
Last edited by stereoguy; 11-24-2018 at 09:39 AM. Reason: Error
#2
I have a 2000 Tacoma 4wd that I have been working on for a while. The brakes worked great till I replaced one of the lines that go into the rear proportioning valve. I bled the brakes and weird ,just rear brakes locking up. I replaced the front calipers and pads and bled all brakes and still the rear only locks up. If I jack the truck up and have someone press the brakes I can still turn the wheels up front. The fluid does comes out the bleeder nipples when I bleed them though. What could cause this?
#3
#4
Be careful not to let the mc run empty while you bleed....thats how air also makes its way in. If pumping the pedal, tighten the bleed valve at the wheel before releasing pressure on the pedal. Have a generous supply of DOT fluid on hand.
#5
Did you adjust the rear brake shoes so it is tight to slip the drum on, thats a good way to set up the initial adjustment, also what is your method of bleeding, 2 person, mighty vac or speed bleeders, I just put the speed bleeders in the front, sure makes life easier for $20.00. And as mentioned above if its a 2 person job you must close the bleed valve before your pedal reaches the floor., and repeat.. for a 2 person job you cannot just hold your foot down and say I'm at the floor and close the valve, chances are air will get drawn back in, you need to predict the peddle stroke and close the bleeder before the pedal hits the floor.
Last edited by Malcolm99; 11-25-2018 at 06:34 AM.
#6
Did you adjust the rear brake shoes so it is tight to slip the drum on, thats a good way to set up the initial adjustment, also what is your method of bleeding, 2 person, mighty vac or speed bleeders, I just put the speed bleeders in the front, sure makes life easier for $20.00. And as mentioned above if its a 2 person job you must close the bleed valve before your pedal reaches the floor., and repeat.. for a 2 person job you cannot just hold your foot down and say I'm at the floor and close the valve, chances are air will get drawn back in, you need to predict the peddle stroke and close the bleeder before the pedal hits the floor.
#7
You must close the bleeder valve before the pedal hits the floor while fluid is being pumped out, I realize you want to get the air out with full swing of the pedal but it is futile and unnecessary as air gets drawn back in when the pedal hits the floor unless you have speed bleeders. You need to control the fluid with the bleeder not the pedal stroke length to insure a seamless flow without introducing air, so pump it up and hold pressure, open bleeder and close bleeder before full stroke hits the floor while pressure is held on pedal and repeat. Also the brake fluid reservoir is divided front and rear for safety so that if you blew a brake line you would still have hydraulic brakes (although soft and significantly reduced) on either the front or rear depending on which line you blew, it would only deplete 1/2 of the reservoir due to the divider, so make sure your not looking at the front or rear half of the reservoir thinking its still half full and keep bleeding, bleed with reservoir cap removed toping it up before it gets to the MIN level or 1/2 way with vehicle not running. Also to save the wife the crappy job and an argument spend the $40 and buy all 4 speed bleeders, she will be ecstatic.
Last edited by Malcolm99; 11-25-2018 at 01:03 PM.
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