Wondering what was involved in flushing the transmission and if it was worth doing. I haven't had any problems with it. Had it done at 102k miles as part of a regular maintenance interval. Now its 30k miles later and its supposedly due again. Do I need to worry about doing it now?

 

Just do a drain and fill, much easier, and I've yet to hear of anyone suffer a problem following this service (can't say the same of a flush). Drain what fluid will come out via the tranny drain plug, measure it, then replace via the dipstick, check your level and top up if needed, done. If the fluid was dirty, do it again in a week.

 

Another fan of the drain and refill here.

 

http://www.gadgetonline.com/TransFlush.htm

 

Thanks guys. Sounds simple enough. I didn't want to cause problems that weren't there to begin with.

 

I flushed my auto trans in my Volvo S60 according to this plan a while back. I think this basic plan works across make/model lines. Although I haven't applied this plan to my T4R, I am going to do it next weekend. I have to wait for my strut bushings to provide any type of comprehensive report, but I will do so as soon as I get it all done. In the mean time, I am going to apply the total trans flush to my T4R no later than this coming Saturday. I will purchase a trans fluid gauge for the AFT from O'Reilley's tomorrow and install it before I do a full trans flush. I will report.
This info is for a Volvo S60, but can easily be adapted to a T4R. Please don't squabble over the cross-over between the
Volvo and the T4R.
Note: For the 4Runner, Dexron is used. I tried to buy some Dexron II from O’Reileys and was told that Dex II has been superceded by Dexron III.
Tools needed: long-necked funnel (should be found at any auto parts store), 24mm (15/16 in.) box or open-end wrench, aluminum crush (same one as the one for the oil pan!) washer, 5-6’ ½” i.d. (internal diameter) clear plastic tubing, snap-ring pliers, plastic zip tie, 4-5 one-gallon plastic jugs, 12-14 qts ATF (Mobil 1 is highly recommended, or if your car is a 5 speed automatic- all cars that are P2's which means '01 and newer and also '00's should use Mobil-3309 or the special Volvo ATF), a light, and, if possible, a car ramp.

The 1st part is what “modifies” the procedure.
The transmission pan is drained initially. For Do-it-Yourselfers it is preferable to place the car on an at-home car ramp to make the drain plug more accessible. Put the parking brake on and place something behind the rear tires for added safety.

Next drain the ATF from the transmission pan into an oil catch basin. The transmission drain plug is on the driver’s side running perpendicular and slightly behind the axle. You will need either a 24mm. or 15/16 in. box or open-end wrench (spanner) to remove the drain plug. When the old ATF is finished draining, check the condition and wipe off any sedement on the magnetic drain plug. This will also give you a chance to check to see if there are any shiny particles stuck to it. Now put in a new aluminum crush washer (same one as you would use for the oil pan nut) and tighten the plug to 28 ft/lbs. You are now finished with the work under the car.

It is important to measure the amount of old ATF drained from the transmission pan. Usually only about 3-3.5 qts is drained from the pan since the majority of fluid is in the radiator, lines, and torque converter. The amount drained needs to be known (you’ll see why in the next step). Now go to the transmission dipstick located up front behind the radiator on the driver’s side. Take the dipstick out and place the long-neck funnel into the transmission dipstick filler-tube/port.

Now the transmission pan needs to be filled through the transmission dipstick filler-tube with new ATF using just under the amount that was drained via the drain plug. The reason not to replace exactly the same amount is that it is better to top-up the ATF fluid at the end of the entire flush than to have too much fluid at the end to avoid having to remove the excess.

The 2nd part is basically the “standard” flush.
On the top of the radiator on the driver’s side is the transmission-to-radiator inlet line and port. There is a clip holding the inlet line to the inlet port. This needs to be removed. It is easily done with snap-ring pliers. The clip might need to be rotated to gain access to the opening. Once the ring clip has been removed, with a little effort, the line can be pulled off the radiator port. There is a rubber ring washer sealing the valve in the port and so a little effort will be needed to disconnect the line. Once this is done you might notice that some ATF will run out of both the port and the line. Place an old rag under the port to catch what little might drain. Be careful not to let any lint or dirt enter the port.

Next you will need to attach the ½” i.d. clear plastic tube over the valve part of the transmission-to-radiator inlet line. This will fit very snuggly thus eliminating the need for a retaining ring or clamp (remember this is not a high pressure connection). 5-6 feet of clear-plastic tube should be sufficient. You can run the line either under or over the top of the car and into pre-marked one-gallon container. Since you will be flushing from 8-10 qts. (not counting the initial 3.5) you will need from 3-4 one-gallon containers. I recommend marking the containers in 2-qt. delineations. An assistant to hold the container and line and yell when 2 qts has been flushed will prove very helpful, but not an absolute necessity. (If you will be doing the flush alone a longer clear-plastic tube would be helpful so that you could place the containers near the driver-side door.)

Now you are ready to begin the flush. Start the engine with the parking brake on and your foot on the brake. Shift though each gear for approximately 10 sec./gear. When 2 qts. have flushed into the container stop the engine. Replace the 2 qts, which were flushed, pouring the new ATF into the transmission dip-stick/filler tube via the long neck funnel (this is 1 engine-on/engine-off cycle).

This flushing procedure should be repeated until the old ATF returns clear. Initially the ATF will be very dirty since it is coming out of the radiator and torque converter first, (first 2 engine-on/engine-off cycles or first 4 qts.). Then it will clear as the new ATF, which was initially added to the transmission pan, begins to cycle through the tube flushing out the darker dirty fluid. Two more flushings should be done although an extra (1 more cycle) may be necessary to obtain a totally clear flush.

This will make a total of 4 or 5 engine-on/engine-off cycles (8 -10 quarts of new ATF will have been added in addition to the initial 3 qts added to replace what was drained from the transmission pan). Remember what has been removed must, in the end be replaced. The transmission system holds 8 quarts.

At this time the clear plastic tube can be disconnected and the transmission-to-radiator line re-connected to the radiator inlet port. The clip needs to be replaced. This takes a little effort. To ensure tranquility of mind a plastic tie should be placed around the clip to prevent any possibility of it popping off at some future time.

Transmission fluid should be topped-off according to the instructions in the Volvo manual. Remember the engine needs to be running and the car needs to be on a level surface to check the fluid, so if the car is on car ramps, it needs to come down.
Other than cleaning-up, you are done. Please remember to dispose of the transmission fluid by taking it to a recycling center. Most auto stores accept used oil and transmission fluid. Congratulations on a job well done.

 

http://home.centurytel.net/stevenjac...sh/tranny.html

 

WOW Mt Goat!!! What a detailed set of instructions for a full tranny flush. Excellent instructional info. Thanks for your sharing your experience and efforts for this important task.

 

You are welcome, but all I did was post a link.

 

I like to drain and fill, mainly becasue I don't want to break anything by messing with connections that don't leak currently. I get 5 quarts out when I drain. This is more than the manual states. It's almost 30% of the fluid. I drain and fill once a year with Mobil 1 ATF. There is also a Mobil 3309 product that sounds interesting but I'm sticking to Mobil 1.

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub..._ATF_3309.aspx

 

you make a very good point, badattitude. Theoretically, if you do 3 for 4 drain and flushes, you might be getting most, if not all, of the ATF out and replaced. You would just not be getting the pan and filter cleaned like mt goat does (sounds like you could eat off of his). I am rethinking taking the pan off and doing as you suggest. Thanks.

 

I have about 190k miles on my '99 4Runner. Is it advisable to change to the ATF fluid (via drain/refill or pan drop method) or should I just keep it as is? Never had any transmission issues but I am trying to be proactive. I already have an aux ATF cooler to prevent the strawberry milkshake issue.

 

I like to drain/refill on a regular basis, what comes out will tell you a lot about the transmission.

 

You should drain and fill. It will be good for your trans! Your main concern is using the correct fluid and filling to the exact correct level per the dipstick. Mine takes 5 quarts exactly but use your dipstick to make sure the level is perfect after you drive at least 15 miles. I can vouch for Mobil 1 but it is $10 per quart. You can use Mobil 3309 or buy the fluid at the dealer if you like your dealer.

We need Dex III type fluid. There are many different kinds of ATF and some are labeled as Dex III approved.

It is just fine to mix synthetic fluid with regular. But I like to stick with whatever brand I choose rather than have 3 or 4 brands of fluid in my trans after several drian and fills.

If you want piece of mind your trans is in good shape, send the old fluid to Blackstone Labs for analysis. http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

 

I use AMSoil fluid in mine and it works great, course I use AMSoil in everything.

 

Thank you Texas ace glade I'm not the only one who loves putting the best in your Toyota!

 

By my numbers, three fluid drains will result in 86% new fluid old and four fluid drains will bring it up to 92% new fluid. This assumes a 12qt system capacity and 5qts being replaced each time. The problem is that doing this instead of a one-time system flush will result in wasting eight(8) extra quarts of new fluid.

Besides, dropping the pan is a good opportunity to see what's stuck on the magnets and in the filter.