bump bump

 

Ummm... Lesse... The two ports there on the side of the S/C are there to feed two things. One is the brake booster and the other is the vacuum for the 4WD acuator.

hmmm... okay, looking at the docs (see link above), on page 21, "figure D", it shows what to do. I'm a bit off... The main line that hits that fitting is to the EVAP canister (the double humped black box on the driver's side fender). Then the line that you've got in your hand T's into that.

What did you do with the line that came from the EVAP?

And sorry about the mislead on the other hose...

 

Please bare with me I SINCERELY appreciate the help.

Well that's the whole thing the picture (Figure D page 21) shows 2 lines coming off the EVAP one is pictured going to the airbox (which was like stock and I have done that).

Now the second connection off the EVAP seems like I have to buy a T fitting some extra pipe and tap into the 4WD VSV and take it to the SC'er, BUT if I do that then I still have this original guy hanging around my engine bay

 

OMG MARK Im such a putz! I think I just got what you said, so the line in my hand or pictured above is ALREADY T'ed into the 4WD line all I have to do is squeeze it onto that big fat fitting ont he SCer and Im good to go right?!

 

Okay... we need to back up a bit.

Is the hose that you have circled above the 4WD hose? Or is there one more hose around (what you just refered to as the "original guy")?


It's important to have the 4WD stuff hooked up, and I think that hose you're holding in pic #3 is that one - I say that 'cause of the blue piece in the line - that's a one-way valve.

I don't remember having to buy a T to get this to work, but I did cut the hose to the EVAP canister and use a T to fit that hose. Maybe your grabbag pack of stuff didn't come with one. OR! Where did the T come from that you used on the boost port fitting (back of the S/C)? That fitting is not "normally" T'd and thus the T in the bag wouldn't be for it.


edit: pic and such deleted, it was confusing.

 

Okay, the line in your hand in pic #3 in your first post on the thread IS the 4WD line. The 4WD line has the blue piece in it, that's the one-way valve.

Is that the same line that you're holding up to the port on the S/C in the later pic?

On mine, the 4WD line is too small to fit on the port... BUT, the line to the EVAP canister fit, and that line had a reduction in it. So, I cut the line at the reduction, T'd it, and then fit the 4WD line into the T.

 

Yes that is the same line that Im holding up to the port (the 4WD line as you call it)

The black and white picture with the circled hose is ALSO the same line

Forgive my ignorance but what exactly is a "reduction".

AND finally if I hook up this hose (the one in my hand and at the port) that is to small, but I know I could force it on, what should I look for? as in what may not work how can I test out the piping. At this stage I have everything done and Im getting antsy

 

Okay... whew! I thought we may have grown another hose.

So wait.. from the pics, it doesn't look like the 4WD hose T's into the EVAP canister. Where's the 2nd hose that comes from the EVAP? You took one to the intake, but there's another one. THAT hose should be the right size to fit on the S/C fitting.


Wow... this is a bit hard. If you have a vacuum hose wrong, then depending on which one, a) the engine could run like crap, b) there could be a loud whistle, c) you won't have any brakes, d) you won't have 4WD, e) you won't get max boost...

Fun huh?

Obviously the brake issue is the most serious, and from the pics, you'll be okay. That's the hose on the side of the S/C behind the fitting we're talking about now.

"runs like crap" could be interesting, we'll have to see...

"won't get max boost" would come from the fitting at the rear of the S/C, and I think you've got that right (it looks like you T'd it for the FTC? but generally that goes to the FPR).

"loud whistle" (but runs "okay") would come from the fitting on the _bottom_ of the TB. It's an easy one to miss.

And, we're working on the 4WD setup now. You'll know that's okay just by hitting the 4WD button in the cab. There's a sensor on the acuator in the transfer case that will tell you it's enaged. If the 4WD light comes on, you're okay.


I meant that the hose to the EVAP started out large enough to fit on that fitting, then after a few inches it coupled to a hose that was smaller in diameter - it "reduced" in size.

 

Well thats my problem Mark, there is no second hose (I mean of coruse there are many other hoses but nobody that is not connected). Im going to sneak out of work and go home see whats going on in there.... maybe take some more pics Ill be back in 45 mins.

 

Okay... a picture is worth...

Referencing this:


The first thing to note is that your truck will be a LOT cleaner than mine.

The red line is the 2nd EVAP hose... note how it runs across the top of the brake booster and into the "back" of the canister. The T in that line is the 4WD hose.

The purple line is the brake booster.

The green line is the "1st" EVAP hose which runs to the intake.

 

Mark I think you just solved my mystery, Im almost 99% sure Ill check it when I go home.

 

Kick arse!

 

My 'complete kit' which I bought was missing the critical reducing tee that allows you to tap the small vacuum line into the vapor cannister line.

Drove me nuts trying to find the right piece at local auto parts stores. I had one braised up in brass eventually.

Also, as stoopid as it seems, I managed to install the special throttle body gasket backwards ... not so stupid if you realize you are reaching around to an area you cannot see easily.

Anyway, kept getting a PL-0171 code (system too lean) which almost always means an air leak on the vacuum side of the SC. Hunted around for 30 mins after I pulled code and found it.

No probs afterward.

Just a heads up.

David

 

That is a great pic Mark

 

Guys thank you all so much!!! It's amazing, I never would have imagined! Best 3k I ever spent and I dont even have the 2.2 pulley or the walbro fuel pump in yet.

So what's the deal with the break in period? and RPM level?

 

So, I guess this means it runs then huh?

Did you get the FTC in?


Oh, I think my break-in lasted for about the distance from the house to the highway on-ramp.

Like I said, there's break-in period in the sense that the bearings need to get settled and the oil in the nose needs to slosh around a bit, but there's nothing much that you can do to control how gentle it is. The blades in the S/C are spinning REALLY fast even at cruise speeds, so doing something like keeping the revs down on the engine isn't going to make the bearing break-in any smoother.

I guess the bottom line is that I dunno that I've ever seen anything in print from TRD. I didn't really baby it for any length of time. If you want to be safe, keep it off of redline for about 100 miles; keep it out of the dragstrip (or stoplight equivilant ) for about 500 miles.


fwiw, I would NOT instal the 2.2 pulley until you get the fuel pump in. The 2.2 pulley is gonna add about 1-1.5psi of boost. Without the Walbro, you're already running lean on top (since the 325's are getting starved by the stock pump). If you increase the boost, the ECU won't be able to do any more than it already is to get more fuel into the engine, and you'll just be leaner on top. And lean is how you melt pistons.

I'd run it this way...

1. Get the FTC in if it's not already
2. Get the Walbro in
3. Then drop the 2.2 pulley on

Congrats! and Welcome to the Fun!!!

 

Mark, seriously from being on this board for a few months and reading these posts everyday you along with a few select others are exceptionally kind with your time and always are on point with the advice. Thanks soo much for your assistance man.

And the FTC was the easiest part for me knocked it out in 30 minutes, Ill take your advice and do the pump before the pulley.

 

Right on Jimmy. Thanks for the thanks - I try man.

Keep us in the loop!

 

Ooops sorry missed that post bro, I work for a European Company called Lafarge, huge company 18 billion in sales every year, probably bout 4 Billion of revenue for the US operations.

Try to work for a multinational European company if you can, they have completely different work ethics and policies then most US comps do. Easier life style 1-3 months of for paternity leave (fully paid of course) small things that make your life better.

I remember when I was interviewing and I met with one of the Executive VPs and he said "Jimmy times have changed and these days are harder, no more 37 hour work weeks we expect a full 40" I almost fell out of my chair laughing, coming from a company where I was doing 50-60 and also getting paid less I was in heavan.

Gluck mate, and finance is the way to go $$$

 

Then tell them you need a half day Friday to wrench on yout truck. Get in the truck and come to Richmond. We'll have the fuel pump in no time

kidding of course about telling your employer anything like that