I'm probably going to go look to buy one tomorrow. Probably going to go with an OEM. Durk, what kind of prices were you running into?

 

Cody, when you first start your truck up in the morning, you should hear the fan ROAR when you start driving; it will be very obvious. If it's hot outside, then you should hear the same thing every time you take off from a stop. If it isn't making that loud noise, then your fan isn't spinning.

 

List stealer $177.74, ToyotaPartsZone $140, Aftermarket $50-100, OEM Aisin online $101-$125. I got it from PartsGeek.com for $111 because I have used them before and when they say it is OEM, it IS OEM--sometimes it even comes in a red Toyota box. Also they ship UPS from NJ & California so many times it is here REALLY fast (the NJ warehouse is in the same UPS facility zone as I am.) This is coming from Illinois so I ordered late Weds., they shipped Thurs. and I will get it tonight--Monday. (I am always last UPS stop-truck is usually almost empty and gets here 6-7pm.)

I'm not doing aftermarket on a mission-critical part that is probably good for the remaining life of the vehicle (I have 140K), but if I had 200K+ I might. I have to go into NYC again Weds. so it is just in time.

 

This thread is a God-send. I overheated this weekend and could not figure out the problem.

Tested the fan clutch when the engine was hot.......you could spin it backwards with a hot engine running !!

Just ordered the AISIN clutch from partsgeek.

 

10~15 minute job just as long as the #1 and #2 fan pulleys don't move on you. Put the 4 12mm bolts back on the fan pulley bracket after removing the fan/clutch out the driver's side of the engine bay. 12mm flare nut wrench works well for removing them

Tighten the 4 10mm bolts for the clutch to 65 IN/LBs, no more.

 

Any pics or detailed tech write-ups on this?

 

3rd person to say I just ordered a fan clutch from partsgeek. With 2 day shipping, tax, and insurance it came to $135. A lot better than the price I got at the local Toyota dealership which was $177.

 

Not to my knowledge but it is super easy.
1. 4 12mm bolts hold on the fan/clutch shaft on the fan pulley bracket. Use a flare nut wrench to remove them.
2. Remove the clutch/fan out the engine bay, driver's side.
3. I put the 4 12mm nuts back on the fan pulley bracket (hand tighten) so the #1 and #2 pulleys did not possibly move under the tension of the ALT and PS belts.
4. Remove the clutch from the fan. 4 10mm bolts.
5. Put the new fan clutch on. 65in/lbs. Light torque.
6. Remove the 4 12mm nuts, hoping that the pulleys do not move. If they do, loosen the aformentioned drive belt(s) tension.
7. Put the new fan/clutch on the fan pulley bracket. Tighten to 80 in/lb.
8. Good to go.

 

[I was writing this without seeing previous post, sorry for duplication. I will note my '99 FSM says 48in-lbs for the clutch to pulley nuts, not 80 in-lbs.]

Mine arrived UPS from PartsGeek at 6: 45 and I was done pretty quickly. I had done TB last year so pulleys came loose right away. This meant I had to slack off the PS belt which is a minor pain. As stated above, you don't need to remove shroud or anything else except the 4 12mm nuts. I used an open end with no problem but I put anti-seize on these last year. Then the fan and clutch come off together and slide out to the side.

Then just flip her over, undo the 4 10mm nuts and separate fan and clutch. I had to bang it gently on a brick standing on end to get old clutch out. Then fasten fan to new clutch at FSM spec 65 inch-lbs. using old nuts. Replace fan and clutch combo on motor (FSM Torque spec is 48 in-lbs but I have no way to get a TQ wrench on those nuts) and re-tighten PS belt. Would have been 15 minutes except for PS belt. If your pulley doesn't come apart, this is a piece of cake.

It gave a very satisfying fan roar when first turned on that I had been missing for a while. I left it idling for 20 min with A/C full out and it didn't heat up over 1/3 (not that warm tonight, only 70°F.)

The old clutch showed no sign of leakage but the thermal clockspring and valve actuating pin were quite corroded. I think it just rusted solid in the cold weather so I'm glad I swapped it. New Aisin Partsgeek replacement was identical to OEM.

Kiddo took some pics with his iPhone--we may post later.

The first one shows the pulley twisted by the belt tension. The rest are pretty self-explanatory.

 

Here is a link to how to change the drive belts. Here you can see the bolts, fan/clutch shaft and bracket. Props to sfb for getting this link going.....

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/h...5vz-fe-216234/

If your belts are original, or are making noise, change them at the same time with some new belts such as Bando...

 

Yeah, like posted before, I did my timing belt/water pump job a couple months ago, so removing should be pretty easy. Hopefully I'll get it by Wednesday since I went with the 2 day shipping! Thanks for the write-ups and pictures guys!

 

ok guys i found this on another site and it was listed under the tundra/sequoia section but looks relatively simliar to our setup. Anyone who has done this, feel free to add in any tips that may be more helpful.

http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...6&topic=2004.0

 

Good find

 

The only thing I would change is not loosening the belts until you have the bolts broken....

 

codyx36- it sounds like you have diagnosed your issue as the fan clutch but just wanted to be sure you were not letting the radiator go. Prevention of the strawberry milkshake is as easy as a new radiator. Then you will be worry free for many years again.

KOYO A1998 is a direct fit replacement for you auto tranny guys and quite easy to install. Did it in about 45 minutes on my friends 01 Limited and hardest part for us was the grille clips removal, which some folks say is totally not necessary at all.

CLin9383 thanks for getting me over here as well.

I do not hear that fan roar any longer when I start up in the AM so I am suspecting my fan clutch is bad as well and will check it out. Although my temps never get beyond halfway on the gauge-I can't say I have heard my fan run in a year or so.

 

ron check post #5 and give it a shot to test your fan clutch. do it when the truck is at operating temp, not at startup. good luck.

 

thanks saw that video but fan needs to be running to check resistance against it right?

 

well your fan should always be spinning but your engine needs to be warmed up at least. i've never tried testing it from a cold start. i did mine after i got home from driving from work and when i put the magazine in there it stopped it with a little force.

 

thanks CLin