ditto
ditto
all these guys are very right!!!

if your fan clutch is good you may need to burp any air from the line at the TB this is an issue with closed loop coolant systems air gets trapped in the throttle body and the water does not flow properly!!! usually it results in a high idle, but may be the issue. as well have the block flushed with a new radiator or you could end up replacing the Radiator and having the same issue other wise!!!

Lastly are you sure the fan clutch is good it may seem good but be on its way out!!!

 

I checked my fan the other day with that newspaper trick, seems pretty damn strong! Not really sure how to check it out another way. But I'm probably just going to end up getting a new radiator, I can get a discount through work if I go through a company called Performance Radiators which I've heard from 3 different people now that they're a good and reliable place.

 

I really just want to caution you about expecting a new radiator to fix the issue "very likely it will" Yet this may not be your issue.
However I do believe that it is a flow issue a simple Thermostat could be the issue. If the temp rating is too high then it will not open sooon enough!!! When did you have the work performed "Winter? Summer? using a thermostat that will open at a lower temp. is better for summer. you could have the radiator flow tested and see if there is restriction, NOT Saying It Is Not A Good Idea Either Way to change the radiator Really it is!!! but there is a possibility you need to change the Thermostat as well..

Be sure to burp the TB coolant line that goes through the IAC beings this is higher than the radiator it can get air trapped in it and create this issue. How is your Idle has it been acting normal at start up??

 

I know it 100% might not be the radiator, but like I said, when the thermostat was done just a couple months ago we flushed the block out and everything. Idle at start-up is acting fine.

Drove into Seattle yesterday afternoon, and what do ya know, once I get parked at the parking meter lot, the temperature shoots up.

I think I'm going into work Monday to order that radiator.

 

have you sprayed out your Radiator to see if it is clogged???
but from what you just said you are definitely on the right track!!!

 

did the magazine to fan thing and it looks like the clutch is gone. so thats the route im heading.
anyone point me to a write up? searched and didnt find much. thanks

 

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/Docs/FanClutch.pdf



which write up are you looking for the fan clutch repair or replacement??

the replacement is a simple pull some 4 nuts and bolts to remove fan and clutch, then remove the clutch from the fan and replace with new clutch.
then re-install.

clutch rebuild
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/f...ild-22r-18900/

another write up
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...clutch-154455/

and last but not least do not forget about the search engine of search engines

http://www.nwtoys.com/wattora?page_id=72

good luck!!!

 

thanks eddie. im not sure if i need to rebuild or just replace the whole assembly. if its slipping will re applying the lube be enough?
what is the price difference in replacing the whole assembly vs re lubing?

 

from what I was reading on one of the links I sent you and it said
" Silicone fluid is $30.00 at dealer and a rebuilt fan clutch is in the $90.00 range."

that was like $10.00 a tube for the fluid and that is at Toyota.

really just throwing options out there for you,

From what I remember reading in the past is that the fluid is the part that either goes bad or just gets out.

 

the first link is a good picture write up and the second is where I got that link.
The third link is a write up for just replacing the clutch...

like the oil pumps on these trucks the fan clutch is virtually bullet proof,

simply rebuilding is usually sufficient however like our starters most people do not know you can rebuild them or "where the starter is concerned the contacts go out and you replace them for $20.00 or replace the whole thing for like $130-200

 

Ha... Yeah, I was overheating all around town today. Went up town (15-20 minute drive), and as soon as I started to slow down into the parking lot of the mall, guess what goes up. Temperature gauge. I'm tired of this. Buying a new radiator on Monday.

 

cody if you're overheating when at slow speads... i think its your fan clutch bro... can you hear it roaring??? it should be roaring if its getting hot. even if the radiator is partially impaired.

 

I'll give it a listen when I get down to work today. It's only an 8 minute or so drive, but I'll check it out. Might as well try that newspaper trick again while I'm doing that too.

 

do the "trick" when its overheating...

 

I couldn't do it overheating. But I'm at work now and just did it, I got here, immediately popped the hood, stuck a rolled up magazine in it and it stopped right on the spot. Guess I shouldn't have tried the trick before with a cold engine lol. :/

 

I'm replacing my fan clutch Tuesday (if UPS keeps to current schedule). I had a serious overheating issue last week stopped on the uphill approach to the Lincoln Tunnel with A/C on, stop and go traffic, and 100°F heat. I saw a small puff of steam out the left side of the hood, looked at the gauge that was well into the red, and pulled over at the last exit in NJ. It cooled quickly and then stayed below half once I restarted, turned around and headed home on free-flowing Interstates. It failed newspaper test and just seems anemic when at idle and hot.

I later did a round trip to Baltimore with no further issues but I hate seeing steam. I am aware of rebuild concept but after 11 years I'd rather start new. Having to stop in the Lincoln or keep going and fry my engine is a choice I do not want to make.

I've had the fan off to do the Timing Belt and water pump last year so I know that's easy. Separating clutch from fan sounds easy, but you never know until you try.

 

Its super easy, its just 4 10mm bolts to remove the fan from the clutch.

 

lol durk i know what you mean. i was on a date last night and i was hoping to god not to overheat!! that would have been so embarrassing, so to help myself a bit i was just taking highways ANYTIME i could to avoid being in traffic. durk can you document the process a bit if you have time when your doing the replacement. i know its just a take fan off and take clutch out and reverse to put it back but i couldnt find any info on size of nuts or anything. i tried to get frontal look at the fan but couldnt because i didnt have much time but looks like i can just take the fan shroud off and disconnect the top rad hose and should be good from there. any tips would be helpful. oh ya, where did you get the part? and you have a part number? thanks!

Edit: thanks DC!

 

nut and bolt are the same!!! or if another has messed with it 10mm and 12mm

 

16210-62010 is the OEM part number per toyodiy.com.

08921-04950 is the newer part number according to toyotapartszone.com.

I got an AISIN OEM from partsgeek.com.

I'll let you know how the swap goes.