1996 Tacoma 3.4 Overheating nothings worked so far
07-19-2016, 05:22 PM
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1996 Tacoma 3.4 Overheating nothings worked so far
New to the forum and hoping someone might be able to help me out since i'm at wits end chasing this cooling issue. so alittle history of the truck it is a 96 tacoma 3.4 4x4 5 speed, 150,xxx miles. Third owner. second owner bought it in 98 and i purchased it 3 years ago. Truck was well maintained and 100% stock as i knew the owner personally.
Driving to work one day doing about 70 mph down the highway the temp gauge started to spike but would then drop if i let off and just cruised. Took it to a shop and was diagnosed as blown head gaskets. Since then i have rebuilt the heads, pressure tested and resurfaced(heads were warped), fel-pro multi layer gaskets and all new top end gaskets. new fail-safe thermo, upper/lower rad hoses, radiator flush, rad cap.
engine light came on and the temp gauge stopped working. pulled a p0115 code(if i remember right) coolant temp sensor low input. replaced the sensor and still throwing a code.
after all of this truck still over heats with bubbling overflow and steam.
only thing i have not replaced is the water pump( i have not noticed any leaking from the gasket or weep hole)
any ideas or suggestions? calling toyota tomorrow after finding a recall on these early 3.4 head gaskets. dont know what they will do after ive already replaced the HGs but it wouldnt hurt. Thanks for any help
Driving to work one day doing about 70 mph down the highway the temp gauge started to spike but would then drop if i let off and just cruised. Took it to a shop and was diagnosed as blown head gaskets. Since then i have rebuilt the heads, pressure tested and resurfaced(heads were warped), fel-pro multi layer gaskets and all new top end gaskets. new fail-safe thermo, upper/lower rad hoses, radiator flush, rad cap.
engine light came on and the temp gauge stopped working. pulled a p0115 code(if i remember right) coolant temp sensor low input. replaced the sensor and still throwing a code.
after all of this truck still over heats with bubbling overflow and steam.
only thing i have not replaced is the water pump( i have not noticed any leaking from the gasket or weep hole)
any ideas or suggestions? calling toyota tomorrow after finding a recall on these early 3.4 head gaskets. dont know what they will do after ive already replaced the HGs but it wouldnt hurt. Thanks for any help
07-19-2016, 05:32 PM
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And the fan is? Would love to hear what you end up finding, this sort of thing can be so obnoxious.
07-20-2016, 02:40 PM
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Just how did you figure it was the head gaskets .
I lean toward a clogged condenser blocking a worn out radiator
I wonder how the fan clutch is .
Might be something as simple as a bad radiator cap has it been tested ??
Has the system ever been pressure tested checking the failed head gaskets ??
I lean toward a clogged condenser blocking a worn out radiator
I wonder how the fan clutch is .
Might be something as simple as a bad radiator cap has it been tested ??
Has the system ever been pressure tested checking the failed head gaskets ??
07-20-2016, 02:52 PM
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Thanks for the responses so far. I took the truck to a shop next to my work and dropped it off. They said it showed signs of coolant leaking down the block from the head. (As the 3.4 likes to leak externally vs internally). All three techs agreed that is was the HGs. After I removed the heads I had them resurfaced and pressure tested. The rad cap has already been replaced. As for the fan clutch I'm not sure. It seems to have gotten quieter as it seemed to almost roar when I first bought the truck
Quick update. Condenser and radiator are free of debris. The radiator flows free and clean. However I used the hose to run water through the block and it flowed freely from upper rad hose to lower after it was only running to pull up to the garage. Brand new thermostat should be still closed until operating temp. Why am I getting free flow then?
Quick update. Condenser and radiator are free of debris. The radiator flows free and clean. However I used the hose to run water through the block and it flowed freely from upper rad hose to lower after it was only running to pull up to the garage. Brand new thermostat should be still closed until operating temp. Why am I getting free flow then?
Last edited by 96TacoAndrews; 07-20-2016 at 03:18 PM.
07-20-2016, 04:21 PM
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Don't just throw a new radiator in there. Feel both sides of the radiator when warm. If one side is warm/hot and the other is cold, then you may have a clogged radiator. If the temperature seems relatively consistent, your radiator is fine.
Does the temperature stay normal then shoot up suddenly? (does not slowly get hotter)
Try this. With it cool, make sure the coolant absolutely full. It would be ideal if you were able to bleed it as well. What's also ideal is if you have an obd2 scanner to read the actual temperature. Take the truck out and do a few to several back to back hard pulls. Repeated 10-60 will do. Stop the car, but leave the engine running. You'll want to stop & check this while the temperature on the gauge or scanner is NORMAL. Check the overflow, is it bubbling? If it is, the only possible explanations would be a weak radiator cap, air in the system or combustion pressure is getting into your cooling system (head gaskets, cracked head or block).
Mike
Does the temperature stay normal then shoot up suddenly? (does not slowly get hotter)
Try this. With it cool, make sure the coolant absolutely full. It would be ideal if you were able to bleed it as well. What's also ideal is if you have an obd2 scanner to read the actual temperature. Take the truck out and do a few to several back to back hard pulls. Repeated 10-60 will do. Stop the car, but leave the engine running. You'll want to stop & check this while the temperature on the gauge or scanner is NORMAL. Check the overflow, is it bubbling? If it is, the only possible explanations would be a weak radiator cap, air in the system or combustion pressure is getting into your cooling system (head gaskets, cracked head or block).
Mike
Last edited by idlingmoke; 07-20-2016 at 04:22 PM.
07-20-2016, 04:46 PM
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Thanks Mike. Currently the temp gauge has stopped working and I have a basic obd scanner from autozone as far as i know it only pulls codes. I'll read up on the specs of the scanner.
What is the best way to bleed the coolant system besides "burping" it between drives.
Took it out for a couple drives each day and did some good pulls and the overflow was bubbling. Took it out for about 30min drive round trip to the gas station. Even at cruising speeds 45-55 overflow still bubbling
What is the best way to bleed the coolant system besides "burping" it between drives.
Took it out for a couple drives each day and did some good pulls and the overflow was bubbling. Took it out for about 30min drive round trip to the gas station. Even at cruising speeds 45-55 overflow still bubbling
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07-20-2016, 10:01 PM
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You'll really want something to see "live" temperature to do this stuff.
To bleed I raise the front end, turn the heat high & fan on full. Keep adding water to the radiator, air bubbles will keep coming up. Install the cap when the bubbles stop or when the water level looks like it's rising and starting to push more than a little water out of the radiator or when it starts getting hot (obviously not hot enough to burn).
Avoid long drives for this test. Fill/bleed the coolant, let it FULLY COOL, go for it, then inspect.
To bleed I raise the front end, turn the heat high & fan on full. Keep adding water to the radiator, air bubbles will keep coming up. Install the cap when the bubbles stop or when the water level looks like it's rising and starting to push more than a little water out of the radiator or when it starts getting hot (obviously not hot enough to burn).
Avoid long drives for this test. Fill/bleed the coolant, let it FULLY COOL, go for it, then inspect.
Thanks Mike. Currently the temp gauge has stopped working and I have a basic obd scanner from autozone as far as i know it only pulls codes. I'll read up on the specs of the scanner.
What is the best way to bleed the coolant system besides "burping" it between drives.
Took it out for a couple drives each day and did some good pulls and the overflow was bubbling. Took it out for about 30min drive round trip to the gas station. Even at cruising speeds 45-55 overflow still bubbling
What is the best way to bleed the coolant system besides "burping" it between drives.
Took it out for a couple drives each day and did some good pulls and the overflow was bubbling. Took it out for about 30min drive round trip to the gas station. Even at cruising speeds 45-55 overflow still bubbling
07-21-2016, 02:25 PM
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Once again thank you Mike. Filled up the radiator today after work like you suggested and after I started it and cut the heat on full blast it took another 1/4 gallon or a little more. Before I take it for a drive I'm going to pick up a scanner tomorrow.
Found one at autozone called quicklink made by innova. Plugs into OBD port and Bluetooth to your phone. Download the free app and it's supposed to show all real time engine vitals (coolant temp, rpm,oil temp,vaccum pressure, engine load, etc)as well and code reads and tracks mileage.
I'll let you know how it works out for me and the results tomorrow.
Found one at autozone called quicklink made by innova. Plugs into OBD port and Bluetooth to your phone. Download the free app and it's supposed to show all real time engine vitals (coolant temp, rpm,oil temp,vaccum pressure, engine load, etc)as well and code reads and tracks mileage.
I'll let you know how it works out for me and the results tomorrow.
You'll really want something to see "live" temperature to do this stuff.
To bleed I raise the front end, turn the heat high & fan on full. Keep adding water to the radiator, air bubbles will keep coming up. Install the cap when the bubbles stop or when the water level looks like it's rising and starting to push more than a little water out of the radiator or when it starts getting hot (obviously not hot enough to burn).
Avoid long drives for this test. Fill/bleed the coolant, let it FULLY COOL, go for it, then inspect.
To bleed I raise the front end, turn the heat high & fan on full. Keep adding water to the radiator, air bubbles will keep coming up. Install the cap when the bubbles stop or when the water level looks like it's rising and starting to push more than a little water out of the radiator or when it starts getting hot (obviously not hot enough to burn).
Avoid long drives for this test. Fill/bleed the coolant, let it FULLY COOL, go for it, then inspect.
07-24-2016, 04:30 PM
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Did not end up buying the quicklink . Found many and I mean many horrible reviews. Did fin the problem with the temp gauge so that is working now. Took it out for a drive and about ten minutes down the road the temp gauge spiked. Pulled over to check and the overflow was boiling.any thoughts
07-25-2016, 11:24 AM
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Did not end up buying the quicklink . Found many and I mean many horrible reviews. Did fin the problem with the temp gauge so that is working now. Took it out for a drive and about ten minutes down the road the temp gauge spiked. Pulled over to check and the overflow was boiling.any thoughts
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SCAN-GAUGE-I...758799&vxp=mtr
Last edited by ZUK; 07-25-2016 at 11:30 AM.
07-26-2016, 03:24 PM
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Going to buy the scangauge2 this weekend after pay day. Still having troubles with the truck overheating. Finally have my temp gauge working for now. Quick review of what iv'e gone over or replaced already.
Head Gaskets: heads resurfaced and pressure tested, felpro multilayer gaskets
Fail safe Thermostat
lower and upper radiator hoses
flushed the system and bleed ( pulled radiator out as well to clean any debris and check the flow. seems to flow fine with no major blockage.)
new temp sensor and sending unit
radiator cap.
The water pump is stock but i saw no leakage and bearings sounded fine
stock fan clutch ( have penetrating oil soaking the valve on front to make sure its not froze) fan does spin slightly by hand and keeps moving only slightly after let go.
took the truck out for a drive after bleeding. 10 min into the drive the temp spiked. let cool after boiling and the coolant level seems fine.
the temp stays at operating range when sitting at idle for 30 min.
So the temps are only spiking during driving and they wont come back down. blasting the heat only brings it down abit shortly before rising again.
any ideas?
Head Gaskets: heads resurfaced and pressure tested, felpro multilayer gaskets
Fail safe Thermostat
lower and upper radiator hoses
flushed the system and bleed ( pulled radiator out as well to clean any debris and check the flow. seems to flow fine with no major blockage.)
new temp sensor and sending unit
radiator cap.
The water pump is stock but i saw no leakage and bearings sounded fine
stock fan clutch ( have penetrating oil soaking the valve on front to make sure its not froze) fan does spin slightly by hand and keeps moving only slightly after let go.
took the truck out for a drive after bleeding. 10 min into the drive the temp spiked. let cool after boiling and the coolant level seems fine.
the temp stays at operating range when sitting at idle for 30 min.
So the temps are only spiking during driving and they wont come back down. blasting the heat only brings it down abit shortly before rising again.
any ideas?
07-26-2016, 03:57 PM
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[QUOTE the temp stays at operating range when sitting at idle for 30 min.
So the temps are only spiking during driving and they wont come back down. blasting the heat only brings it down abit shortly before rising again. ][/QUOTE]
Just a couple of ideas here ....
I know you have done head gaskets, but it still sounds like head gasket, cracked head, warped head, etc.
Could it possibly be the transmission overheating everything since it circulates fluid through radiator? I know it does not sound possible, but if you have
tried everything else ...
So the temps are only spiking during driving and they wont come back down. blasting the heat only brings it down abit shortly before rising again. ][/QUOTE]
Just a couple of ideas here ....
I know you have done head gaskets, but it still sounds like head gasket, cracked head, warped head, etc.
Could it possibly be the transmission overheating everything since it circulates fluid through radiator? I know it does not sound possible, but if you have
tried everything else ...
07-26-2016, 04:08 PM
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07-28-2016, 03:35 PM
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Andrew-
I'm glad to hear that you are getting a SC2....a worthwhile investment......every Toyota owner should upgrade to an SC2 or equivalent.
I've never actually performed this test but you are in the position to actually do it because of your overheating condition.....
When the water temps increase on the SC2 (above 195 degrees) take notice of the factory gauge. Notice it still is in the center.
Please note the SC2 digital temperature reading as the factory gauge starts to move off center to the red. Is it 220 or 230?
I'm glad to hear that you are getting a SC2....a worthwhile investment......every Toyota owner should upgrade to an SC2 or equivalent.
I've never actually performed this test but you are in the position to actually do it because of your overheating condition.....
When the water temps increase on the SC2 (above 195 degrees) take notice of the factory gauge. Notice it still is in the center.
Please note the SC2 digital temperature reading as the factory gauge starts to move off center to the red. Is it 220 or 230?
Last edited by ZUK; 07-28-2016 at 03:53 PM.
07-30-2016, 07:57 AM
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Clear your codes and see if that temp sensor low input code comes back up with your new sensor in there. Your issue with the sensor may be in the wiring and not the sensor. I don't ever have to work on my 3.4L so I'm not exactly sure how the cooling system works in it but my 3.0L has two coolant temp sensors. One sensor controls the gauge in the cab and the other sends it's input to the ECM. That input is vitally important to the operation of the engine. Check to see if that is the case with the 3.4 and if input from that sensor controls your fan. I'll look that stuff up for you if you need me to. Also, since you are looking at buying some testing equipment, pick you up an infrared thermometer. The kind you aim at the target and it gives you a temperature reading from a distance. I use them all the time. It won't show exactly the same temperature as the coolant inside the radiator or engine or whatever you are aiming it at but it will give you an idea as to what is hot and what isn't. Shoot your radiator, hoses, head, block etc. If fluid is not reaching a particular part of the system, you will be able to see it. Your engine will show overly hot if it is starved for coolant and water lines will show cold if fluid isn't flowing through them. Just a good tool to have around. I use mine mostly for shooting bearings, hubs and differentials but also use it immediately when I see a coolant temp gauge reading that looks fishy to me. .
