1991 4x4 pickup problems...
#1
1991 4x4 pickup problems...
I recently purchased a 1991 Toyota 4x4 with the 22-RE with 120,000mi. At low RPMs and when taking off the truck will stutter and the CEL will come on, when it comes out of the stutter it runs fine. I am new to the Toyota scene and was wondering if anyone has experienced this before and could give me a place to start.
Also the clutch needs replaced, are there any brands of clutches that you would recommend?
Thanks in advance...
Joe C
Also the clutch needs replaced, are there any brands of clutches that you would recommend?
Thanks in advance...
Joe C
#2
Most likely it's all due to the clutch! I would also do a complete tune-up to gain some lost power! I have heard of Centerforce clutches but I just put a oe clutch in! It set me back $600 installed. Make sure you get it fixed soon. It will put a lot of strain on the truck and it will make it run hot!
#3
Shiithook,
I have a 91 toyota too. Does the stutter start to go away when you hit high rpm's and rev it up pretty good. At the high end before shifting. Sounds kinda like my rig. The CEL will come on when it starts to shutter. Kinda like its cuttin out but still runs fine. Doesnt like the cold either. Goes away when the engine gets warm. Have had the problem for a while. Comes and goes. Runs good for a while and then the problem will come back.
I have a 91 toyota too. Does the stutter start to go away when you hit high rpm's and rev it up pretty good. At the high end before shifting. Sounds kinda like my rig. The CEL will come on when it starts to shutter. Kinda like its cuttin out but still runs fine. Doesnt like the cold either. Goes away when the engine gets warm. Have had the problem for a while. Comes and goes. Runs good for a while and then the problem will come back.
#4
Need to know why the check engine light is coming on.
Procedure to retrieve trouble codes
1. Locate the Diagnostic connector under the hood and identify the TE1 and E1 terminals.
2. Turn the ignition swith to the "on" position and make sure the check engine light is on.
3. Confirm the
a. Throttle is closed
b. Air Conditioning is off
c. Transmission in Park or Neutral ( Automatic only )
4. Jumper the connector terminals TE1 to E1.
At this point the Check Engine Light will flash depending on the code its output. See below.
Whats the Code(s) that flash?
Jay
Procedure to retrieve trouble codes
1. Locate the Diagnostic connector under the hood and identify the TE1 and E1 terminals.
2. Turn the ignition swith to the "on" position and make sure the check engine light is on.
3. Confirm the
a. Throttle is closed
b. Air Conditioning is off
c. Transmission in Park or Neutral ( Automatic only )
4. Jumper the connector terminals TE1 to E1.
At this point the Check Engine Light will flash depending on the code its output. See below.
Whats the Code(s) that flash?
Jay
Last edited by Jay; 11-11-2002 at 08:56 PM.
#6
If the check engine light comes on....
1. The Key is on, Engine off ( BULB CHECK ).
2. The Engine Stalled ( See above ).
3. The Engine ALMOST stalled for a brief moment.
4. Trouble with a sensor the ECU monitors. It has stored a code in the memory of the ECU ( Electronic Control Unit ).
Which # applies to you?
Do any other "Bulb Check" lights come on at the same time?
Jay
1. The Key is on, Engine off ( BULB CHECK ).
2. The Engine Stalled ( See above ).
3. The Engine ALMOST stalled for a brief moment.
4. Trouble with a sensor the ECU monitors. It has stored a code in the memory of the ECU ( Electronic Control Unit ).
Which # applies to you?
Do any other "Bulb Check" lights come on at the same time?
Jay
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#8
Need to know what the code is that is set in memory.
Retrieve the Diagnostic codes using a paper clip as stated in the above post.
Determine what numbers are output using the diagram.
Ill figure out what is being affected. And prolly have the answer or at least something more to check =P
Jay
Retrieve the Diagnostic codes using a paper clip as stated in the above post.
Determine what numbers are output using the diagram.
Ill figure out what is being affected. And prolly have the answer or at least something more to check =P
Jay
#9
I get codes 14 and 43. Last night I put on new cap, rotor, plug wires, and plugs. I also pulled off the throttle body and cleaned it, it was really bad. I also wiped out the intake manifold as best i could. I got it all back together and it runs better, but now the idle lopes when i push down on the brakes. I checked the main vacuum connection from the brake booster. It seems like the CEL has stopped. Also does everyone elses idle really high when it is cold?
Joe C.
Joe C.
#12
Speaking of clutches, when my clutch started slipping and making squealing noises when releasing it, I went out and got a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch. It set me back like $375 plus a new release bearing $20 and installation $269.00 at Clutch Doctors in Everett WA. It works great, but I find that the clutch won't hold when I park it in my space which is on a bit of an incline. I have to use the parking brake as well... which is weird, because my stock clutch was able to hold on the same "hill" before it was worn out, and the disc glazed badly. Any ideas? I guess that the Centerforce only works great when the flywheel is spinning.
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