Well sitting here at 126k with all the parts sitting around for months and trying to find the time. I am quite pleased (and dismayed at the same time) that your engine enjoyed the timing belt change. I suspect mine will too! Maybe I will do it this weekend.

 

You said 6 or 7 years, my 2000 4Runner was produced in 10/99, it has 46,000 miles on it... Do you really think I should replace the belt? What's really important? The age or mileage? Or if mileage isn't a factor will a belt last 10 years?

 

i would say that age is definitely a factor in looking at the cracking on the surface of the belt that was removed.

 

I had a new one put in at around 115,000, I think. That was about 4 to 5 years ago. I'm at 180k now.

 

put it this way. the wife's Land Cruiser is a 2000 with just a hair over 70k. i'll be changing it out this summer. it's an interference engine on top of that, so there's no "insurance". if it goes, it can take the engine with it, and it's only about $10k for a new one from toyota...

 

The 4.7 or the 3.4 is an interference engine? I thought the 3.4 was not.

 

3.4 = non-interference

4.7 = interference

since the wifes cruiza is only a year newer than my runner, and i honestly feel that age has a lot to do with the condition of the belt, it will be getting changed ASAP since my 8-yr-old belt had begun to develop surface cracks.

 

one question, is it ok to wait till 100k before changing the timiing belt in a 3.4? ill have the W.P and drive belts changed too at that time. just makes it easier on me to keep up with it! lol.. i dont do hardly any offroading just mainly highway miles and tons of them. i am at 79k miles on an 02 4x4

 

I just did my TB at 127K - did the Water Pump and belts too...

The timing belt looked brand new but it was apparent the water pump had been pissing for a while. There was quite a bit of crusty coolant inside the lower cover and around the Crank Timing Gear. So much crud that I thought that it may have been the cause of my engine / vehicle vibration (another story). It was totally crusted up and over the timing sensor. I know the sensor is magnetic so it shouldnt have been the issue.

I have some pics that I will probably post separately or added on here at a later date. Other notes:

The tensioner tool was a great help - though it was still a bear to get that belt on.

What a bitch to get at the Power Steering Pump Tensionser!

What a bitch putting stuff back together with the fan in there - I may rethink my process next time.

G

 

I'm at 120,000+ miles and need to order all of the parts. Did you remove the radiator for more working room? Any other hints that may not be common sense?

Andreas

 

My biggest recommendation: Make your own Harmonic balancer tool. I modeled mine after the thread with the one created out of steel plate. I made mine out of 2x4; used 4" long 3/8 bolts (grade 8 I think) spaced 3" apart. The writeup i saw said they are 3.27" apart but that didnt jive with when I measured it up (inserted bolts in holes in pulley and then measured on center). I used 1.5" long 3/8 ID x 1/2 OD steel spacers/sleeves to go through the wood and installed with large washers and nuts. Worked like a charm for 5 bucks!!

Radiator was not removed, but should be easy enough and would negate the need to protect it from incidental dings and dents. It would also give you more room in there to work.

I have done a fe VW belts, did my escort like 3 times - this was pretty easy when all is said and done. if I had to do it again, it could be done pretty quickly.

Water pump is a must given the amount of them that weep long before the belt is ready to go!

My AC tensioner pulley looked like it was shedding some grease from teh bearing - I will have to replace that soo but that should be easy.

217 ft lbs is easier when someone else helps you out

 

Excellent. Exactly the sort of info I was looking for. I presume you had someone hold your harmonic balancer tool? How did your hoses look?

Andreas

 

The tool rested up against the frame for loosening - friend held it in place for tightening.

Hoses all looked great and i did not replace. Will be replacing and doing a good flush in the spring when it is warm. I will also be doing rear heater lines/hoses (see revived rear heater thread for info). Rear heat is bypassed for now.

Might as well do oil, tranny and diff fluids while skid plates are off!!

I use a little plastic scraper and some emery cloth to clean off old material from water pump.

It helps to have all torque specs sitting in front of you for easy reference.